Every 6-10k miles, but I change the cassette too. I figure $$$ wise, it’s cheaper to do both at the same time and let them both wear. When I was more diligent about putting a new chain on, I’d hate the skipping due to a slightly worn cog. Now, cheaper maintenance and no skipping chains!
Huh, you find the chain and cassette wear evenly and perform well for 6-10K miles? This seems like a very unconventional approuch, but maybe most of us are doing it wrong?
Yep. I just never found the reasoning behind replacing based on a somewhat arbitrary “stretch” as it would force me to change every 2-3 months. Rather than spending ~$70 for a cassette and $40x4-5 on chains per year, just using one chain/cassette pairing for 8k-10k miles of riding works for me. I’m not an anaerobic beast, but rather a good diesel engines. Terrain is completely flat. roads clean.
As others have said, it depends, based on your power, the terrain you ride, the weather, and how well/often you clean your chain and cassette. Once a year could be perfectly fine.
I’m pretty fussy about cleaning and lubing my chain. I don’t consider myself to be very powerful or rough on my equipment. It’s flat as a pancake and almost always dry as a bone here in West Texas/Eastern NM. I can easily get away with putting on a brand new KMC chain early in the spring, ride/race in the summer, then train in the fall/winter with the same chain. About 4500 miles per chain.
Back in the day (25 years ago), riding in hilly terrain and wet weather in Europe, I’d change chains every 1500 miles or so. That seemed to be about the time you’d get some chain skipping in some gears.
As I mentioned above, I do the same…
BUT, maybe a better question for folks - what really defines a ‘worn out’ chain?
I’ve had chains (KMC) that I’ve used for more than one season, on multiple casettes/wheels, and they shift perfect all the time. I clean my chains somewhat regularly and lube with rock n roll gold.
I’ve never once owned a chain that stopped shifting properly, and I’ve put on plenty of miles. Once about 15 years ago I had a chain snap, a wipperman.
So the whole chain stretch thing, are folks worried about shift quality, or do you feel the stretch is somehow costing watts??
Apparently I have not been changing chains soon enough. Gone through two cassettes in the past year and just replaced the front chain ring, Ultegra 6800. I’m told that there is no good mileage gauge b/c the amount of power you put through the chain and the type of terrain can create significant differences. I’ve finally just decided to go buy that darn tool that tells you when it’s stretched. Chains are inexpensive and easy to replace. No reason not to swap them out as needed to ensure you don’t chew through cassettes and chain rings like I have.
Maybe it’s not such a big deal for triathlons and maybe tri training isn’t as stressful on a chain since there is no need to put a ton of torque into your bike so it’s not trained, but having your chain skip as you sprint out of turn during a crit is a damn scary situation. Not trusting your bike not to skip when you put down power sucks even more. That crap gets in your head.
Whenever the .75 peg on my Park tool slides all the way down.
Mileage based would never work for me. I have been running the same brand for a decade plus and have had chains wear out after about 1000 miles (very dirty riding and lax cleaning) and others last 4000 miles plus (clean riding and keeping up on my cleaning chores).
I change mine every season. The beginning of the season, around February or March. It’s less than $100, so it’s a no-brainer to just do it. Plus it’s piece of mind to start the new season.