My buddy works for Cannondale and hooked me up with a great deal on a CAAD10 Rival. It’s shipping directly to me in a box. Are these very difficult to build? I do basic maintenance on my P2 like replacing and maintaining my derailleurs, brakes, cables, etc. but I really don’t get into the crank area or stem myself. Are those going to be a problem?
Jason
99% sure the CAAD10 is an externally routed bike, so in comparison to setting up a p2, a fair bit easier. Take your time and read up thoroughly on Park’s website and I’m sure you’ll do just fine.
If you have a press for the headset and BB it’s it’s one of the easiest bikes to set up. External cables, nothing weird. As long as you can spin a wrench and twist a barrel adjuster it’s no big deal.
If you have a press for the headset and BB it’s it’s one of the easiest bikes to set up.
OK so what if I don’t have a press for the headset for BB? Are those expensive? I actually want to assemble it myself, I’d hate to bring it to my LBS just for the headset and BB but I guess that wouldn’t be the end of the world.
A homemade press made from a threaded rod, washers, and nuts along with a little patience can get the job done just fine.
Chances are you won’t need to install those if you are getting it as shipped from the factory. When I was wrenching in a shop the BB, crankset and fork all came pre-installed from the factory.
Current Cannondale frames don’t need a press for the headset.
I thought you had to install the fork race on the Cannondales…did they change this? If you do have to install the fork race, it can be done cheap with just a piece of plastic pvc pipe.
It is a good idea to get a headset/bottom bracket press (about $100) anyway, as Cannondales use the old metal BB30 separate bearings, which require a good amount of pressure to push into place. Not as easy as the pressfit bottom brackets which are nylon that many bikes now use.
Mm I think 1 rear cable is internally routed on mine. Mostly external though.
Rear brake is the only internal routing. Wrench at the LBS says trick is to flip the frame upsidedown and the cable will pop right through. Other than that should not be any harder than a ‘normal’ bike.
I have a 2011 CAAD10 and over the years have basically broken the whole thing down. Replaced the entire grouppo from Rival to Force, changed BB bearings, headset bearings, cables, housings, etc.
The only part I found challenging was pressing in the BB bearings. I didn’t have the proper press, but once I took it to my LBS for help, it was really easy given the proper tool.
Last time I saw a Cannondale road bike come out of the box (it was an EVO), I’m pretty sure the crank was already installed. It was just a matter of installing the seat post, saddle, handlebars, rear derailleur, chain, cabling, and bar tape.
x2 they just drop in, no need for a press. I have a caad10 rival as well and no issues that are hard assuming you can do normal derailuer adjustments etc.
I believe that the bearings should already be pressed in. Don’t these ship 80% complete (ie, put on HB, seatpost, pedals, crank, and ride)?
Even if they’re not, CAADs are super easy. The routing is all external and there are details in the frame. I built one on my own recently - except I did it the hard way, using a pieced-together groupset. I had to find a new headset topcap cover, which was harder than it sounds.
This is exactly what I did last winter. Got a Caad10 frameset and built up a bike from it. I used my own parts though – not rival, but rather Ultegra 6700
For me the only part that required any special tools/knowledge was installing the crank. I have Shimano cranks that are english threaded and needed an adapter to fit in the BB30 bottom bracket I bought a headset press for that.
The stem/fork was a piece of cake. Not even a consideration. Just be sure to take a close look at the diagram when putting the fork in to make sure you get all the parts in the right order and it will take you just a minute or so.