I’m replacing the Syntace Streamliners that came on my bike with a pair of C2’s that I had sitting in my parts drawer from another bike. I wanted to poll everyone and see what the best method is for routing the shifter cables on these bars? Do you tape them tight and follow the curves of the bar all the way back, or do you just tape them to the vertical grip part and let them drop down from there? I’d like to get the front end as clean as I can, but I’m afraid that if I follow the bends of the bar that’ll be too many bends in the cable and the shifting will suffer. Has anyone drilled C2’s for internal cable routing? Any feedback or, better yet, pictures, would be greatly appreciated.
bump.
I’m replacing the Syntace Streamliners that came on my bike with a pair of C2’s that I had sitting in my parts drawer from another bike. I wanted to poll everyone and see what the best method is for routing the shifter cables on these bars? Do you tape them tight and follow the curves of the bar all the way back, or do you just tape them to the vertical grip part and let them drop down from there? I’d like to get the front end as clean as I can, but I’m afraid that if I follow the bends of the bar that’ll be too many bends in the cable and the shifting will suffer. Has anyone drilled C2’s for internal cable routing? Any feedback or, better yet, pictures, would be greatly appreciated.
Syntace C2’s are already drilled for internal routing. At least mine were. You can only use friction shifting because SIS doesn’t work when you route internally.
If you go external, the shifting should be ok if you follow the bar. You could tape the cables down temporarily with masking tape just to test it.
Larry
Most of set ups I have seen simply run down length of vertical section. They come with some plastic notch covering material that you use to run over the cable. I found this stuff makes the leading edge of the bars very comfy from a ergo standpoint. Seems to me routing the cables all the way through the length of bars would make for a radical bend once you exit and leave too little for handlebar movement.
I tape them to the vertical part but then run them “loose” between the aerobars up and over the base bar and then down to the cable stops on the down tube.
The way that I find best to run the cable, is to run the shifters pointed down. That way your wrist does not break when you shift, and it is more comfortable. I do tape the vertical position on the bar and then cross them after they come out. I put a zip tie on the second part of the bend, and then run them up and over the break cables, continuing into the barrel adjusters. It does not compromise the shifting, and it looks super clean.
I also like to wrap the bars as far down as I can, until the word Syntace. It looks cooler.
I also like to run the bar clamps as close to the stem, without touching it, because when you adjust the pads to where they should be, it provides flexibility in the bar itself, and more comfort.
-Richie Cortez, Chief Tech, Elite Bicycles