for the sake of time constraints and specificity, I’m doing most rides indoors, using TR and virtual power on the KK road machine (I also track HR data).
I don’t have a power meter on my P2.
What’s the most accurate & least arbitrary method of translating the virtual power numbers to outdoor rides and races at HIM/IM distance? Right now all I can really come up with is HR+ 5 beats. MPH seems like a poor metric as well.
perceived exertion is the most accurate way. Which will not be perfect either since that is often quite different indoors vs out for many people.
But that is the best way.
for the sake of time constraints and specificity, I’m doing most rides indoors, using TR and virtual power on the KK road machine (I also track HR data).
I don’t have a power meter on my P2.
What’s the most accurate & least arbitrary method of translating the virtual power numbers to outdoor rides and races at HIM/IM distance? Right now all I can really come up with is HR+ 5 beats. MPH seems like a poor metric as well.
I struggle with this as well. I do most of my riding indoors and have recently started testing pacing by HR. Did you add +5 beats because you find it easier outside? Also have you done any testing outdoors based on the the HR threshold that you’re getting from Trainer road? I’d be very interested in hearing about your experiences.
REI memebership, then buy this, get back some money at the end of the year:
I’d go with HR and perceived effort, although I find perceived effort to be off at the beginning of the bike and if I don’t watch my power I’ll ride too hard. I’ve been training and racing with power/HR since 2007 so I’ve collected a fair amount of data. My HR data can vary, but it’s also fairly consistent. I did a ride last year where I hid my power numbers and rode only by HR and perceived effort. I wanted to be between 245 and 255 watts and ended the ride with an average of 250 so it put me right in range. And that was a swim/bike brick so it wasn’t just a ride.
Things can influence HR, but if I didn’t have a power meter for races that’s how I would approach it.
REI memebership, then buy this, get back some money at the end of the year:
http://www.rei.com/...amp;msid=qaGABNro_dc|pcrid|44272129120|
Or, skip the front wheel and get this without the membership cost and without waiting for the end of the year:
I’d go with HR and perceived effort, although I find perceived effort to be off at the beginning of the bike and if I don’t watch my power I’ll ride too hard. I’ve been training and racing with power/HR since 2007 so I’ve collected a fair amount of data. My HR data can vary, but it’s also fairly consistent. I did a ride last year where I hid my power numbers and rode only by HR and perceived effort. I wanted to be between 245 and 255 watts and ended the ride with an average of 250 so it put me right in range. And that was a swim/bike brick so it wasn’t just a ride.
Things can influence HR, but if I didn’t have a power meter for races that’s how I would approach it.
Great info! I think I’ll try doing some Trainer Road free rides based on heart rate, while hiding the power number and see where I end up wattage wise.
If you know your FTP on TR, ride 80% of that on TR, look at your HR and that is roughly your HR for the HIM. Test it a few times on outdoors rides for 3+ hours and run off the bike.
Remember it will be high coming off the swim. It takes me 20min to fall into place.
For me this is very accurate.
REI memebership, then buy this, get back some money at the end of the year:
http://www.rei.com/...amp;msid=qaGABNro_dc|pcrid|44272129120|
huh. the wind tunnel data that compares that wheelset to Ksyrium, FLO 60/90 and ZIPP 808 isn’t coming up on my screen when I click on the REI site. you have a reputation to uphold, sir!
all seriousness aside, my racing has been done via RPE so far, and like many, I have trouble holding back on the bike. (or training enough for the run . . . )
You could buy a poor man’s power meter “thingy” - I used to own an old PT…then played around with an ibike a couple of years ago and ended up getting rid of the PT and now swap the ibike between road and tri bikes…When I plug in my race times into BBS or other sites it gives me almost identical power numbers as my ibike. My ibike on the trainer tracks about the same as TR - within 1-2% diff. So I race with it and it gives me a guide. I really don’t care about “exact” watts, more of am I tracking, so it works for me. And it was very affordable. Just another low cost option.
How do you even set up one of those ibikes on a triathlon/tt bike? Wouldn’t the aerobars get in the way of where you should mount it?
put a cover on it for race day, then aero is good =)
REI memebership, then buy this, get back some money at the end of the year:
http://www.rei.com/...amp;msid=qaGABNro_dc|pcrid|44272129120|
huh. the wind tunnel data that compares that wheelset to Ksyrium, FLO 60/90 and ZIPP 808 isn’t coming up on my screen when I click on the REI site. you have a reputation to uphold, sir!
all seriousness aside, my racing has been done via RPE so far, and like many, I have trouble holding back on the bike. (or training enough for the run . . . )
How do you even set up one of those ibikes on a triathlon/tt bike? Wouldn’t the aerobars get in the way of where you should mount it?
Nope…I have it mounted right between the pads on the neck of the bike. The size of the device is similar to other bike computers. The newer models have a better wind sensor to get the numbers closer to accurate. Again, I found it to be very accurate over periods of time which for long course racing is what I need.