What do you think, oh master Jedi …
Well, I’m no bunny, but I think they’re nice.
What are you gonna do with your old brakes?
I am in the UK reading this, and I must say that they are an elegant interpretation of a dual pivot brake caliper.
Ok, Gary, I’ll bite. Why are those brakes so special?
-Robert
Bunny: they’re single pivot
Robert: they’re light
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Personally, I don’t care if the Zero Gravitys are more or less aero. . .I think they are much more elegant than the Zipp you had on before. The Zipp dominated the front end and to my personal taste, was just about the least appealing piece of carbon I’ve ever seen on a bike. . .
The Zero Gravitys appear much smaller than I had even imagined. I haven’t seen good pictures with size references until your post. Very small indeed.
I’m curious, though. . .for someone willing to spend big $ on brakes. . .why not Nokon or IRC black cables? Although I’m not of the mind that they are worth the expense for everyone, for someone like you I think they make perfect sense. . . They are definitely better than standard fare, even higher performance teflon or goretex treated standard housed cables. And they make for extremely smooth braking and shifting. And oh, by the way, they’re much lighter than standard stuff too. Just not enough better to justify the extra $ for average joes.
If I could use them I would, however the integrated cable housing runs interally inside the Abici frame
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Hmmm. . .My Talon SL has internal routing and I was able to use them with no issues. . .What’s different about Abici’s method of internal routing? I believe there are stops at the entrance/exit points and that only the internal teflon sleeve runs internally on my application. I’ll take a closer look tomorrow.
Just curious about any differences.
you could use nokons and just put a piece of regular cable housing on the internal sections (I’m assuming the bike doesn’t have cable stops just holes in the frame for the internal cables). Not as light as full nokon, but it would sure look cool.
Been admireing a pair of zero gravity brakes on a brand new Kestrel Evoke in my LBS. Sure are sweet, but a friend of mine had a cat brake (older zero gravity) snap in half on a downhill under heavy braking and that scared me a bit. But there may still be a pair in my future…
I dont think the Nokons will work, the housing runs full length
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I’d think you could just run regular housing inside the frame and then throw two end caps on the housing where it exited and use nokon from there. I’m debating trying it with my girlfriends Kestrel 500ems. I could be wrong though, never really looked at it close.
whats the benefit of that?
weight?
what do you think of this saddle?
benefit is the same as the saddle, looks cool. Picked up some silver look carbon bar tape today which would totally match that saddle. Paired with shiny silver Nokon cables it would be perfect.
The fast guy in the local group rides the black version of this saddle and loves it. He claims its as comfortable as a padded saddle. San Marcos don’t work all that well for me except for the Concor Light otherwise I’d be tempted to put one of these on my road bike (I use SLRs currently on all my bikes). My concern about these saddles (and any other manufacturer’s take on the theme) is that they would be too slick in a TT position. We tend to squirm around a lot more on TT bikes anyway. . .I like to have a bit of grip to keep me planted.
Definitely cool look though, especially with the white/silver color. . .
Although those brakes have a nasty habbit of having their quick release cam engaged while riding. Not got when your trying to brake hard in a race and only getting 50% if that.
performance has them on sale, ordered one, will report back with pics
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Ted Ciamillo here of Zero Gravity; please check that the lever bearing located behind the cam lever is adjusted to remove play from the cam lever. To check for adjustment, wiggle the the cam lever forward and back, there should be only a slight amount of play. The play may be taken up by removing the brake from the bike, lifting the cam lever to reveal the lever bearing, and turning the setscrew clockwise. Only turn a little at a time; check for play, and continue. If you turn the setscrew too much, the bearing will bind the cam lever; in that event, turn the screw back slightly (counterclockwise) and then push on the bearing to seat it back. Note: you must push it back down; the screw raises lever bearing for tightening but for loosening, the screw must be turned counterclockwise and the bearing pushed back in.
A few early models require this maintenance check, we have since changed the geometry of the cam latch such that the amount of movement available in the bearing adjustment is such that maximum recession will cause no problems. I would be happy to send you a replacement camlatch if you wish. Simply send me your old one at the address on our website, www.zerogravitybike.com. There is a list of part names on the spec page of the site.
Thanks.
another corporate honcho replies…now there is customer service for you
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I saw your brakes at Interbike–looks like a great design. Any chance that in the future your company will be producing them in a silver finish (i.e., plain aluminum annodized finish)? I think you might get some additional sales if you do.