Hey guys, I was hoping for some insight to solve a few problems I have been having.
I have a Red P2k I think it is 2001, but I’m sure people can tell the year by the color.
I am having two major problems with it and was hoping someone had figured out solutions for them.
There aren’t rear-dropout adjuster screws, has anyone figured out how to put these in or put something on the frame to help it keep the wheel back. I am currently pulling the wheel back in the dropout and tightening the QR down to keep it back, but it is hard to get it perfectly aligned and I am also having trouble keeping it from slipping when I stand and stomp hard on the pedals.
I hate the cable routing, the black plastic things always pop out and rattle, and let a lot of water in the frame when this happens. so it just makes it a pain trying to get all the water out after I ride in the rain or wash it.
Are the threads where the screws go in stripped, or are you just missing screws. If the former, let me know and I will tell you a trick to avoid re-tapping. You can answer here, but PM me, or I will forget this thread by the end of the day.
Meanwhile, I don;t think tightening the crap out of your skewer is the right thing to do–and, if you “get on it”, on a hill or a stoplight or stand and throw you r whole body weight into your stroke, it will shift.
The black cable stop things will pop out of the frame if the cables are under too much tension due to being the wrong length, etc. I had one of mine that was consistantly popping out until I changed to a longer cable.
re: setpoint screws
It is not recommended to add the set point screws, per Gerald!
I epoxied some ball bearings on the dropout and it worked for awhile, eventually they shook loose so I then epoxied a slug and it has held for over a year. Obviously if you are using several different wheels then epoxying may not be a great solution.
This is an idea that works, and provides adjustability, coutesy of Landis Cylcery in wherever IMAZ was:
A couple of hours before cut off for IMAZ bike check in, I stood on it at a light, and it drove the right side screw into the hole, cocking the wheel sideways against the frame–unrideable. The guy at Landis Cyclery got the old screw out but the old threads would not hold. The guy found a nut that would fit the screw, and threaded it up to where it looked about right for alignment with the left side, if you were to put the screw back in the hole. He screwed the screw in, even though the threads were mostly striped, and adjusted the NUT until the distance was right, then withdrew the screw, put locktite on the NUT and the screw, let it dry and put the screw back in. He did not locktite the screw into the hole. Then he fine tuned with the left adjusting screw so the wheel was properly aligned. The nut keeps the screw from being driven into the hole.
Gerard said if that was working, not to mess with it–don’t re-tap unless you have to. Actually, I think they are technically bolts, but I don’t know.