Anyone riding a Giant Trinity Advanced with Flo or similarly wider wheels that had to solve a brake rub problem? They definitely can be forced wide enough, but seem to not want to spring back open wide enough after braking. It doesn’t look like thinner spacers would work. Not sure about thinner pad options. Any help is appreciated.
I use both Zipp 808’s and on occassion a Hed Stinger disc both with a super wide profile. I sanded down the Yellow Swiss Stop brakes on a bench grinder and have had zero problems on my Advanced.
Thank you. I was thinking that something like this might need to be done, but I wasn’t sure how well it would work.
You can sand pads. I usually leave the boot pins out so I can switch pads back and forth from think to thin depending on the wheels I am riding. The pin only holds the pad in when the wheel is going backwards so no backwards riding.
The other option, if you don’t want to sand, is to just order the SwissStop Black Prince Flash Evo Pro pads. They are simple a lower profile brakepad.
You can sand pads. I usually leave the boot pins out so I can switch pads back and forth from think to thin depending on the wheels I am riding. The pin only holds the pad in when the wheel is going backwards so no backwards riding.
The other option, if you don’t want to sand, is to just order the SwissStop Black Prince Flash Evo Pro pads. They are simple a lower profile brakepad.
Thank you. It looks like these are for wheels with a carbon braking surface and I do not see similar for aluminium brake tracks. Question out of ignorance…are these suitable for aluminium brake tracks?
Anyone riding a Giant Trinity Advanced with Flo or similarly wider wheels that had to solve a brake rub problem? They definitely can be forced wide enough, but seem to not want to spring back open wide enough after braking. It doesn’t look like thinner spacers would work. Not sure about thinner pad options. Any help is appreciated.
I’m a little late responding here but can I ask if one side of the brake tends to rub more? If so, what brake is on the Trinity Advanced?
No worries on the timing - you (well, Jon) already replied to an email in very quick fashion! Here’s an update though…
They are proprietary Giant brakes.
A lot of sanding seemed to do the trick, though I found some low profile pads from Swissstop that I am going to try as well.
The rubbing mostly is on non-drive side, but mess around with the orientation of the caliper enough and sometimes that will change…
One thing that I have noticed is after getting the pads ground down enough to not rub on the FLO30, it still left me with a substantial non-drive side rub on my FLO Disc. I do have have tiny set screws in my horizontal drop-outs. By turning just one set screw, the angle of the axle is shifted thereby moving the brake track left/right within the caliper. I gave the left one a 1/2 turn and, voila, no rub on the Flo Disc.Might the dishing be a bit off on the Disc? Is dishing (and for future reference, truing) even adjustable on the Disc? I am not sure I would even worry about it or not as it worked really well for me at Kemah. I did a have to turn the set screw back again to prevent the 30 from rubbing the opposite side.
For the record to anyone reading - I LOVE THE WHEELS - and have been happy with Jon’s quick email responses. I just have a bugger of conditions with wide wheels and my brakes. I think that I am good to go though with the sanding approach.
Doesn’t matter what you do to the pads, if the wheel is flexible you’ll still get rubbing. Gave up trying to run a 1080 rear on the Giant because every gradient where I upped the power would see the wheel rub either on the pads or the frame. That plus the lack of hydration options spoiled what was otherwise a pretty good bike.
At any given amount of brake clearance, wouldn’t any bike give you the same issue if wheel flex was causing the rubbing on the brake pads?
The only part of the frame that I could imagine the wheel rubbing as you describe would be the the wheel well grove. There are set screws in the horizontal dropouts that allow you to back the wheel axle out. If they are set all of the way in, the wheel is VERY close to the groove. So close that you cannot see daylight through it. A couple of counter clockwise turns and you get plenty of room on par with most modern TT tri bikes.
At any given amount of brake clearance, wouldn’t any bike give you the same issue if wheel flex was causing the rubbing on the brake pads?
No, because brakes are located in different places, and depending on the place is could actually be a stiff wheel that causes the rub rather than flexible wheel.
Agree. I was thinking of brakes in the same position, which was a pretty dumb assumption.
No worries on the timing - you (well, Jon) already replied to an email in very quick fashion! Here’s an update though…
They are proprietary Giant brakes.
A lot of sanding seemed to do the trick, though I found some low profile pads from Swissstop that I am going to try as well.
The rubbing mostly is on non-drive side, but mess around with the orientation of the caliper enough and sometimes that will change…
One thing that I have noticed is after getting the pads ground down enough to not rub on the FLO30, it still left me with a substantial non-drive side rub on my FLO Disc. I do have have tiny set screws in my horizontal drop-outs. By turning just one set screw, the angle of the axle is shifted thereby moving the brake track left/right within the caliper. I gave the left one a 1/2 turn and, voila, no rub on the Flo Disc.Might the dishing be a bit off on the Disc? Is dishing (and for future reference, truing) even adjustable on the Disc? I am not sure I would even worry about it or not as it worked really well for me at Kemah. I did a have to turn the set screw back again to prevent the 30 from rubbing the opposite side.
For the record to anyone reading - I LOVE THE WHEELS - and have been happy with Jon’s quick email responses. I just have a bugger of conditions with wide wheels and my brakes. I think that I am good to go though with the sanding approach.
If you are getting rubbing on one side it could be your brake. I have proprietary brakes on my Cannondale Slice RS as well. They have very small set screws on the shoulder of each brake (3mm hex I think) that adjust the individual spring tension of each brake arm. If say the drive side arm is rubbing, then you would tighten the drive side spring tension and it pulls the entire brake towards the NDS centering the brake. I didn’t even know that was an option when I first got the bike.
Regarding redishing the disc. I’m guessing it’s not out. I’d make sure you are 110% sure you need to do that before messing with the true on the disc. It can be done, but it’s not as simple as a 30/60/90 wheel.
If you have those little screws on your brakes and need me to shoot a quick video showing you how to adjust that, just let me know. I can even facetime or skype with you to run you through the set up. We do that often.
Take care,
I think it only has that on one side used to force it farther or less open, but I don’t think they can be used to move one side or the other. I’ll have to check once again. Thanks!