Help me spend my money (Rapp and Everyone)

Morning everyone, maybe afternoon for some of you.

I have had a bit of a personal garage sale, selling my golf clubs and wrist watch and have somewhere in the range of $2,000 - $3,000 (will depend on where the ebay ends in the next 3 days) that I’d like to use towards biking gear or a bike.

Based on what I would like, what I read on the forumns and this excerpt from JP Severin’s Blog “You can always quit later”, I am pretty sure that I would like a power meter and other goodies, but would also love the new Orbea Ordu on sale at my local shop…which is on for $3,850 with Ultegra.

JP: Do you have any tips for your average age grouper to improve their bike fit and improve their bike times?

JR: See a good fitter. There are, unfortunately, not as many good fitters as there should be, but there are more and more every year. It’s like seeing a therapist – you can figure out most things on your own, but it’s easier if you have someone there to guide you. For improving your riding, buy a powermeter and learn how to use it. A powermeter is the best tool there is. It’s the one thing I would never give up. I’d rather ride a road bike with clip ons and training wheels with a powermeter than the fastest/lightest/newest/tech-est/best-est bike out there without one. There is no better way to spend your money than on a good fit and a good powermeter. Both of these things will yield vastly more return on investment than anything else you can spend your money on for cycling. And they also are things that will last a long time if you invest wisely from the start.

After searching the forumns, reading a lot about wheel covers (ok Jackmott ok) I think what I’d like to purchase is the following: DT Swiss rear wheel with Powertap Elite+ (debating getting the head unit as I have a 310xt - can people tell me the benefits of getting the head unit?); Wheel cover; Front Zipp 404 Clincher (Our very own Jordan Rapp did say they’re a great all around training and racing wheel, right?); Aero helmet (any suggestions on a good helmet - skip that, I’ll read the post on the first page); Regular helmet, as the straps on mine are broken (I am assuming that you don’t all wear the aero helmets on your training rides, or do you?) Possibly a fit - anyone recommend someone here in Vancouver? I had a fit at my local LBS, but not sure how “right” it is and wouldn’t mind a second look - Based on web research, Bicycle Fit Works in Delta looks good (F.I.S.T. and Retul certified fitters…).
A bit about myself: 5’9" and 160 pounds, with a goal weight between 145-150. First serious year of triathlon (semi-serious really but building) with IMC coming up this Summer - expect to be a MOP for 1-2 years and work my way towards the front. Live and train in Vancouver, BC (rain, gravel on roads, etc.). What impact will that have on choosing a Zipp wheel as a full time training / racing wheel? Currently ride an aluminum Cervelo Soloist with clip-on aerobars
What do you guys think - wheels, helmet, fit the best way to spend the money this time and then wait a few years until the babies are paid for (ie wife is back to work) and I’m a bit better and can justify the new carbon bike?

For the wheels, am I best going new from Wheelbuilder - anyone from Canada used Wheelbuilder and shipped up here? Do you get hit with big duties? Based on pricing it out on there site, quite happy with the package I could get. If not Wheelbuilder, suggestions for Canada?

Always afraid to go the used route after hearing some of the things that have happened to people, even here on ST.

for 2k-3k and wanting the peak performance you can get–it’s gonna have to be used. I understand the reluctance, but how handy do you feel? A used bike that you lovingly clean, recable, regrease, put new pads on, etc, is liable to be a faster bike for the money.

For example (and I doubt many will be able to replicate) I put together a new-to-me bike kit of a p2sl and hed3’s for 1K–and it all looks close enough to new that I’m not worried in the least. There’s maintenance that needs doing, though.

Are you running a base bar on your soloist or bullhorns?

For 2-3k
Used p3 aluminum, maybe p2c/transition (with 105 groupset). Don’t spend a cent over $1500. The one component that will likely be underspecced for your needs is the aerobar. If you’re crazy (in a good way) look up Tom A’s aero setup, if not, at least get yourself the aluminum vision “wing” basebar. I don’t think any of the newer bikes were prevalent enough 3-4 years ago to have depreciated to the level of interest now.

Used hed3, jet60/90 or 404 is good. Just make sure you can see it in person. Hed3’s are honestly virtually indestructible.

Powertap–you might be able to go used since lots of people buy them without actually taking full advantage of it. Disc cover for sure.

Aero helmet you’re on your own. I love my old, old rocket, but dont’ know anything about the newer offerings.

Good luck,
D

All I have to say is congrats on ditching your golf stuff for tri!!!

Bike: used specialized transitions are pretty cheap now. Maybe consider Fuji D6 just because cost is probably good. If you end up with a shop that does a lot of business with Saris, then I’d consider a PT if they give you an awesome deal. Otherwise…IDK about PT…

Wheels: 808 + disc. Consider Reynolds. I suggest clincher for ease and cost reduction. Wheel covers are ghetto (with apologies to Jack Mott.)

Power: Quarq

Headunit: Garmin Edge 500

Aerohelmet: If it fits your mellon get a Rudy Project Wingspan. If you can afford it, Specialized (really awesome.) Spiuk is also really nice and light but is a little warmer on the noggin.

Regular Helmet: Giro Ionos (good fit and airflow), Rudy Project Sterling, or Specialized S-works (distinctive looking and awesome.)

  1. powertap- wired if you want your money to go further and dont care about the wires. elite + garmin 500 for wireless (the head unit for the elite lacks some key features)

  2. wheel cover of course

  3. aero frame- stick with cervelo, specialized, felt, or cannodale based on fit.

  4. get fit, or do it yourself (if youve been biking awhile)

  5. helmet- road helmet for now, i have a feeling some improved aero helmets are going to hit the market based on the drop in the existing prices

  6. aero 60mm front wheel, hed jet 60, flashpoint 60 (or any of the equiv sram s60, real design, ect), zipp 404.

  7. aero bar bottle mounting, zip ties or king cage stem mount and frame bottles preferably on the down tube. no behind the saddle hydration aka bottle launchers and parachute

  8. michelin pro race 3 tires with latex tubes

  9. aluminum base bar by visiontech

Jer and the gang at Speed Theory do a good job on fitting. I’ve heard some good stuff about John Teeters at Pacific Multisport as well. Ed at Mighty Riders probably isn’t FIST certified, but he knows cycling and does a good job fitting. He’s also my go-to wrench when something hits the fan. :stuck_out_tongue: If FIST is what you’re looking for however, Speed Theory is certified.

If Wheelbuilder will ship USPS you’ll just have to pay PST & GST (or HST if you’re slow). Canada Post charges a flat $5 brokerage fee. If they ship any of the courriers, get it sent to Point Roberts and go pick it up. You’ll just pay the standard taxes, and if you go down with an empty gas tank the difference might make up for taxes you pay on your wheels. :slight_smile: Shipping UPS within the conus will likely be a fair bit cheaper for you as well.

Don’t have much to add except to strongly disagree with SeasonsChange “fit yourself” advice. That is - in my experience - at best an unnecessarily long process and at worst a disaster.

I wish the guys at SpeedTheory would get a real fitbike. They know their stuff, but I just cannot recommend them as fitters with their bike-on-the-trainer approach.

I think it looks like a very good plan.

The beauty of it is that every bit would translate to a new bike/frame if & when you go with a dedicated tri bike.

I strongly recommend the Wheelbuilder Wireless unit, the wired unit is going to be limited in moving around, adds another
computer requirement that doesn’t integrate the GPS data that your 310 unit will provide.

While a 404 may be strong enough to stand up to daily use, I’d still figure you are going to be training on a regular
old clincher up front. Showing up for the group rides with a Zipp on is just asking for poser grief, or attention from
someone who will relieve you of your nice fancy wheel.

.

i think a fit is a good starting point in a triathletes career.

i wouldnt be surprised if the most people move away from their initial position and experiment with more aerodynamic ones that arent “perfect” according to a data base of points.

so every time you want to change a position you have to go spend money for someone to measure a few angles? its really not that hard to do it yourself.

i think a fit is a good starting point in a triathletes career.

i wouldnt be surprised if the most people move away from their initial position and experiment with more aerodynamic ones that arent “perfect” according to a data base of points.

so every time you want to change a position you have to go spend money for someone to measure a few angles? its really not that hard to do it yourself.

There are a lot of fits that end up being bad because people make what THEY think are very small changes. I’m not saying that an astute person can’t try a longer or shorter stem once they’ve gone in for an initial fit, but they definitely should have that fit done first. There are also a lot of fits I see where people ended up giving up a LOT of power chasing lower CdA numbers and were slower as a result because their race courses - unlike their test courses - were not perfectly flat and windless.

I’m not saying that every time you change a saddle or get new aerobars you need a fitter to dial them in. But the vast, vast majority of people don’t have a good position, let alone one that is a reasonable launchpad for them to start experimenting from.

Aerodynamics of your position in the aerobars aren’t worth two bits if you end up on the pursuits because your back hurts.

For bike fitting I can highly recommend Tyler Dumont at Physiomoves in Surrey (#10 Highway where the Rodeo Drive-In used to be). He is a Physio (he owns Physiomoves) an ex-elite MTB XC racer who also Road races and Cyclo-cross races. He really takes his time and in my opinion is excellent at it, worth the drive to Surrey in my opinion. I have actually been able to claim the cost of the fitting on my extended care because his invoice is from a Physio office, just an extra bonus.

What kind of wrist watch?

Unfortunately, experiences at Speed Theory haven’t been so good to the point where I’d rather not go back there for a fit.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph.

What kind of wrist watch?

I like the physio idea - I do have a certain amount for that in my benefits package, which might work (although, I think I use most of it with Chiro visits).

For bike fitting I can highly recommend Tyler Dumont at Physiomoves in Surrey (#10 Highway where the Rodeo Drive-In used to be). He is a Physio (he owns Physiomoves) an ex-elite MTB XC racer who also Road races and Cyclo-cross races. He really takes his time and in my opinion is excellent at it, worth the drive to Surrey in my opinion. I have actually been able to claim the cost of the fitting on my extended care because his invoice is from a Physio office, just an extra bonus.

I will have to get some video of my position based on the initial fit that I had done at my LBS and take the Slowtwitch critique punishment.

i think a fit is a good starting point in a triathletes career.

i wouldnt be surprised if the most people move away from their initial position and experiment with more aerodynamic ones that arent “perfect” according to a data base of points.

so every time you want to change a position you have to go spend money for someone to measure a few angles? its really not that hard to do it yourself.

There are a lot of fits that end up being bad because people make what THEY think are very small changes. I’m not saying that an astute person can’t try a longer or shorter stem once they’ve gone in for an initial fit, but they definitely should have that fit done first. There are also a lot of fits I see where people ended up giving up a LOT of power chasing lower CdA numbers and were slower as a result because their race courses - unlike their test courses - were not perfectly flat and windless.

I’m not saying that every time you change a saddle or get new aerobars you need a fitter to dial them in. But the vast, vast majority of people don’t have a good position, let alone one that is a reasonable launchpad for them to start experimenting from.

Aerodynamics of your position in the aerobars aren’t worth two bits if you end up on the pursuits because your back hurts.

Very nice watch if it was a month later I would either buy it from you or drive the price up another 1500.00 or at least. I did a quick search and yours is the one with a tiny scratch on bexel?

That’s too bad - I’ve always had positive dealings with them and like those guys.

~Ed @ Mighty Riders uses video as part of his fit. I’ve never seen him do a tri/TT fit, but I really like the work that he does, and trust him implicitly.
~I don’t really know what John @ Pac Multi does - but I’ve heard from a few people that he did a good job with their fit. You might want to PM Alexia as I think she knows him pretty well.

I saw Tyler Dumont regarding some cleat fitting issues this winter. I was happy with the fixes to my cleat/pedal interface but I found him pretty naive when it came to TT bike fit (for which I did not ask for his opinion).
Certainly he has a great background and knowledge of the way a body is supposed to move, I think he could benefit greatly from a workshop with Dan and Jordan.

I love the guys at Speed Theory but I’ve never solicited their advice for a bike fit or actually watched them conduct a fitting. I was fit years ago and have made only minor adjustments over the years and as I’ve switched from one bike to another.

You’ve had a lot of suggestions, mine only suggestion apart from what you have is to get a cheap bombproof front wheel so you don’t beat up that 404 clincher. Sure, you can train on it but with our weather, I’d rather grind down the brake track on an Open Pro than a 404.

Some of my usual “spending other people’s money” suggestions (some of which you and or others have already mentioned) with a few random brainstorming additions:

  1. PT Elite+ (Hub Only - no head unit)
    http://www.wheelbuilder.com/store/dt-swiss-powertap-package.html
    $955

A bit of an analysis on 310XT vs 500 vs LYC vs Joule here:
http://sites.google.com/site/garminpower

Short summary? 310XT alone is fine. 500 is a bit better than the 310XT if you don’t mind multiple devices. LYC is good if you want to be able to do static calibration of your PT. Joule is nice if you want some additional onboard metrics, but you don’t “need” them.

  1. Wheelcover:
    http://www.wheelbuilder.com/store/disc-covers/
    $90

Let me know how the shipping/duty to Canada from Wheelbuilder works out - it’s on my todo list.

  1. The two books here:
    http://www.physfarm.com/store/
    $40

  2. This book:
    http://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-Hunter/dp/1934030554
    $17

  3. This book:
    http://www.amazon.com/Daniels-Running-Formula-2nd-Jack/dp/0736054928
    $15

  4. This webinar:
    http://www.endurancenation.us/store/resources/ebooks_power_webinar.php
    $79

  5. Footpod (cadence/treadmill):
    http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Foot-Pod-receiver-wireless/dp/B0025YSALK
    $88

  6. 310XT Quick Release Kit (if you’re going with the 310XT alone):
    http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-010-11215-00-Quick-release-kit/dp/B002NJRLJ4
    $17

I think that’s the old version - there’s an updated version available per this thread if you look around:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=2791573

  1. Speed/Cadence Sensor (kinda optional):
    http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Speed-Cadence-Bike-Sensor/dp/B000BFNOT8
    $36

  2. Pick one:
    https://home.trainingpeaks.com/wko-desktop-software/products.aspx
    $129

http://www.physfarm.com/php-client/browse_products.php
$125

  1. Great trainer for when it’s raining like hell there:
    http://www.amazon.com/Kurt-Kinetic-Machine-Indoor-Trainer/dp/B000BNCA0Y
    ~$400?

  2. Swim lessons in Vangroover:
    http://seahiker.com/

  3. Poor man’s wind tunnel:
    http://andyfroncioni.com/2010/01/you-can-test-drive-goldencheetahaerolab-on-windows-right-now/
    $0