So heres the deal. I want to get a powermeter but I keep changing my mind on which on to get.
SRM is nice but a little out of the price range and don’t really want to buy 2 of them (one for rode bike and TT).
So that leaves two:
Powertap and Quarq
I have two sets of Bontrager wheels that are paired spoked which Bontrager said cant have a powertap.
I have a set of Zipps that can use Powertap.
Quarq relatively inexpensive (can buy two for the price of one SRM) and the Crank on the road bike can be sent in to them when the production starts on the specialized version. Plus I can keep the wheels.
If you can afford a Quarq, you can afford a used Dura-Ace SRM. That’s what I did, it’s fantastic. Nothing against quarq, but they don’t offer compatibility with a super stiff crank like the D-A. Let’s be honest, all the affordable versions of the Quarq are variations of the FSA team crank (different brand names, same darn crank though) are about as stiff as wet noodle.
One Wireless SRM and switch between whatever bikes you have. Extra BB shells and HB mounts are ~$200 at most for everything and you’ll have the best powermeter and can use whatever wheels you’d like.
I am in the same boat as you. I have two Specialized bikes with the same FACT Carbon cranks, so that way I can switch the Powermeter between the two bikes as needed. SRM is a little more (for the powermeter) than quarq. Quarq is coming out with more cranks but it always seems like it is 6-8 weeks away. . . . If I needed one right now and didn’t want to wait, then SRM is the way to go, but I do like the Quarq, so I keep waiting. For me, a wheel powertap isn’t the answer since I would have to buy more than one since I may want to run different wheels from time to time. I don’t want to be married to a set of wheels or have multiple powertap wheels. But that is just me, nothing wrong with it if that is someone wants to do.
I don’t think you can go wrong either way you go. . . but for me I would get a crank based powermeter and then get a Garmin 705 on ebay or something to use.
Get an SL+ hub for your Zipps. $1350 or $1600 with the computer and power pack. Ride it in training and racing. A good shop can build it into your wheel for $100.
Later, get a rear wheel to replace your Bontrager with an ELITE+ hub and have a training wheel. $950.
Both work with your Garmin and are easy to replace batteries, etc.
Get 10% off it all at Trisports now (BGRAS-S) or PM me for 15% off ordering direct.
You just spent almost 3K of this guys money. Ibike is less than 1/3 the cost and I haven’t seen the huge difference between the 2. I am considering both but the money is tight these days so I gotta use my noodle before I spend 3k on a hobby.
Money is very tight these days especially just graduating from college.
The main reason I am not looking at the Ibike is a lot of my intervals are done on a trainer. The Ibike uses opposing forces so it wont work in that case.
In a time trial position the Ibike might not be able to get a consent wind measurement and with some bars air is more turbulent causing inaccurate readings.
That’s just my $0.02. I also tried iBike and sent it back.
It’s been proven: Having a power meter and the knowledge (or a coach) to be able to get the most from it is worth far more than any aero gear or new super-light bike that we routinely spend way more money on.
On the other hand, spending $4k on an SRM is a waste if you don’t spend the time to know how to use it.
After reading this it looks like powertap is the best option for those of us with limited cash (and credit!!!) So what about something like the one Competitive cyclist has for $650, its a powertap the wired version, is that a good option???
If you train with power is it a waste of time and money to race without it??? I train with clinchers and race with tubulars, I don’t know if its a better option to build one or the other, or to sell them and get just one wheel for racing and training, and if I go that way what would be the best wheel to train every day and race??? mmmmm train with tubulars??? or race with clinchers???
From what I have read and gathered the wired version hub will be no longer be service-able to the change of components within the hub and the sizing within it.
You develop a pretty keen sense of what your body is doing while training with power, so, although the best way to go is to ahve power all the time, if you’re racing short you can get away without it on race day. If you’re racing long, race with it.
Wired is the same accuracy as wireless, and if you’re not changing bikes wires is fine. If you are changing bikes, get another harness. Right now, wireless is pretty cheap on this site. IN my opinion, the best way to get into a power meter is to buy a good used wired Power Tap.
I’ll make it easy for you: get the wired powertap, get a wheel cover and race on clinchers. Problem solved—don’t make it more complicated than it needs to be.
I´m racing long! can you put a wheel cover on a powertap wheel/hub??? I only have one bike, and when and if I get a new one it will be my only bike also, so no worries about changing it from bike to bike.
I’ll make it easy for you: get the wired powertap, get a wheel cover and race on clinchers. Problem solved—don’t make it more complicated than it needs to be.
X2 I got the powertap build into an 808 and for about 100 bucks you can order a custom wheel cover to race with. (ordered it yesterday after having the PT for about 6 months) The 808 has been rock solid (but I’m not a big guy at mid 160’s) and I’ve been happy with the PT (wireless), which hasn’t given me any problems.