Help me build up my Tri bike

Just pulled the pin and bought my first Tri bike in frame only. Boardman Air TT 9.8 (cost $1122). Now need to buy the rest of the kit and looking for thoughts, suggestions, recommendations as I’m an absolute novice in bike building. LBS is doing the build for me and I’d like electronic rather than mech group. Also would love to hear of any great deals on components accessories etc that are floating around.

Really hope some of the experienced ST’ers can help here.

Will post pic’s of final outcome.

Cheers

I really like the Ultegra Di2 on my tri bike, if you can, go for the base-bar mounted satellite shifters incorporated into the brake levers - makes the bike so much more versatile. Probably doesn’t save you much time in a race, but the convenience of not needing to reach forward to change gears when you aren’t aero is fantastic.

Have fun with choosing all your parts, planning is half of the fun!

Cheers, Rich

Wow, that sounds like a smokin’ deal on that frame!

Ui2 sounds sweet to build it up with!

Post pics :slight_smile:

Thanks - yeah I really like the flexibility of Di2. I’m not convinced DA is worth the extra over ultegra though .

Perfect timing for my first power meter purchase. Looks like the new garmin vector is about to hit the streets here and dcrainmaker has just done a review.
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/08/hands-on-garmin-vector.html

I know early versions might be suspect but it’s one component I’m keen to try.

I really like the Ultegra Di2 on my tri bike, if you can, go for the base-bar mounted satellite shifters incorporated into the brake levers - makes the bike so much more versatile. Probably doesn’t save you much time in a race, but the convenience of not needing to reach forward to change gears when you aren’t aero is fantastic.

This.

I would save some money and buy a different powermeter right off the bat.

You know there are going to be issues in the first run, and you can get other options for much cheaper.

Garmin should be smart and sell it for half the cost with only 1 pedal. Looking at DCs data I don’t see how having a left and a right read out will really help you as a rider other than showing which leg is stronger/weaker.

WAYYYYY to expensive for my taste.

I really like the Ultegra Di2 on my tri bike, if you can, go for the base-bar mounted satellite shifters incorporated into the brake levers - makes the bike so much more versatile. Probably doesn’t save you much time in a race, but the convenience of not needing to reach forward to change gears when you aren’t aero is fantastic.

Have fun with choosing all your parts, planning is half of the fun!

Cheers, Rich

In motor sport racing, it’s obvious to everyone that being the optimal gear at all times makes a big difference in performance. It always amazes me that bikers do not see the same “obviousness” of this for bike racing.

Shifters took ona huge mechanical disadvantage to move from the down tube to the brake levers but the advantages of faster, more convenient shifting made it worthwhile.

Try to get a serious bike racer back to down tube shifters and see how that goes.

Dual position, faster, easier shifting means you will be in an optimum gear more often which means you will race faster. It’s obvious!

Of course, I always take heat for this position but all you need to do to test a theory is exagerate the conditions and see if it holds true at the extremes.

For example, if you feel that being in the wrong gear coing out of a corner is insignificant, what if the race course hade a 100 corners? Or optimizing your gear position while climbing from the horns, what if half the race was climbing with long , gradual hills? Or, if being 1 gear off climbing a hill meant you just pedaled harder, what happens if you’re 3 gears off?

In all these cases, it’s obvious that being on an optimized gear helps… 100% of the time. It should also be obvious that the more often you’re in the correct gear for any condition, and any length, the faster you will arrive at the finish line.

Congrats on your purchase! I just got done building up my felt an my wife’s Scott and it was a blast sourcing parts and putting it all together. My only two cent advice is if you are somewhat new to tri bikes or to this particular frame I would recommend a cockpit that is on the adjustable side. I went with profile design with clip on bars for my tri so I can move things around as I get more comfortable

The quality of shifting of the electronic Ultegra compared to DA is pretty similar. Shelling out extra cash for electronic DA will get you some weight savings more than anything.

Congrats Gunsbuns! Look forward to seeing your bike when it’s all dialed. From whom did you purchase your frameset?

Cheers,
Fletch

The Boardman frames have to be purchased as a Di2 or Mechanical setup. You can’t switch between the two (and have internal/clean routing).

Hi there Fletch
Bought it from cycling express.com - online place here in Aust. I think it’s prob 2012 model (and therefore not the newer electronic setup) but at that price, I’m happy. My LBS here is confidant he can do the Di2 fit with internals via drilling. Says he’s done it before (though not on a Boardman). I’d prefer internal wiring if possible - any comments on this process?

Edit: looks like it might have been a special intro deal for their new website - just after i bought it shows none left! :slight_smile:

PeteDin is correct that the frames really should to be used as they were designed. Meaning the Di2 frame works with Di2, and mechanical with mechanical. That said, I have heard of reputable dealers retrofitting one to work the other way.

How is going? Im considering the same frame with DI2…

Just pulled the pin and bought my first Tri bike in frame only. Boardman Air TT 9.8 (cost $1122). Now need to buy the rest of the kit and looking for thoughts, suggestions, recommendations as I’m an absolute novice in bike building. LBS is doing the build for me and I’d like electronic rather than mech group. Also would love to hear of any great deals on components accessories etc that are floating around.

Really hope some of the experienced ST’ers can help here.

Will post pic’s of final outcome.

Cheers

Get the best wheels you can afford, I’ve had great success sourcing components using Ebay Bike stores
Consider the Campy TT\Tri EPS, my LBS let me test ride a bike with the Record Electronic gruppo and it was Fantastic!

Just pulled the pin and bought my first Tri bike in frame only. Boardman Air TT 9.8 (cost $1122). Now need to buy the rest of the kit and looking for thoughts, suggestions, recommendations as I’m an absolute novice in bike building. LBS is doing the build for me and I’d like electronic rather than mech group. Also would love to hear of any great deals on components accessories etc that are floating around.

Really hope some of the experienced ST’ers can help here.

Will post pic’s of final outcome.

Cheers

SWEET bike man. You’re stoked. Pics of the frameset? That’s still drool worthy even unbuilt.

Personally, I’d go mechanical on the group. Probably SRAM Force to save money and I’d throw a Stages powermeter on it. I’m guessing that you could get it built (with the power meter) for around ~$2000 out the door on top of what you paid. You’d only need some sweetass wheels at that point (which boils down to personal preference).

That’s a hell of a machine you have there and I can’t wait to see the end result!

Seeing my LBS man today to talk fitout components. been doing some research/asking around and looking at some of the following (thanks to various ST advisors). Comments welcome

  • Groupset: Shimano Di2 TT - would love DA but probably end up going ultegra to save a few $$ for other parts.
  • Aerobars: ZIPP alumina clip-ons with a vuka or other base bar. Interested in trying to source some wrist relief extensions (bontrager or Cobb?). This should be very adjustable and should also save $$ for the rest of the build Was considering the **Profile Design Aeria Aerobar **but it’s $700+ so getting a little expensive compared to the alumina option
  • Powermeter: Garmin vectors (I’ll need to swap between road and tri bike and about the only thing I can do is change pedals - plus I have a garmin 910XT). Don’t currently have powermeter
  • Wheels: Don’t want a disc and prefer clinchers (I can change these). ZIPP, mavic or Bontrager clinchers?
  • Saddle: I have a Cobb V-flow Max on my road so would like to maybe try an Adamo

What else do I need to get?