Go tubeless they said… it will be fun they said

new zipp 303s wheels and goodyear tires approved on zipps website with the silca fancy pants sealant.

took forever to get the “bead” to seat, freaking sealant all over the place, neither tire holding pressure and the front tire actually had sealant weeping from the sidewall.

i’ve set up tubeless on hed vanquish wheels with the hooked rim design and not any sort of work with no success like this misadventure today.

on the plus side for the few miles i was at good pressure the ride was a dream on my road bike.

Have you done tubeless in MTB or anything prior?

A decade in, it’s all usually pretty automatic for me. Just put new Conti’s on some Ronald in inter ten minutes.

Some tires weep through the sidewall for a long time.

The WTB Riddler that came on my new gravel bike weeped sealant for almost four weeks before they finally stopped.

Have you done tubeless in MTB or anything prior?

A decade in, it’s all usually pretty automatic for me. Just put new Conti’s on some Ronald in inter ten minutes.

Some tires weep through the sidewall for a long time.

The WTB Riddler that came on my new gravel bike weeped sealant for almost four weeks before they finally stopped.
I know, I’m a dinosaur…
But, I’m not sure how weeping sealant for 4 minutes, let alone 4 weeks is a feature.

Have you done tubeless in MTB or anything prior?

A decade in, it’s all usually pretty automatic for me. Just put new Conti’s on some Ronald in inter ten minutes.

Some tires weep through the sidewall for a long time.

The WTB Riddler that came on my new gravel bike weeped sealant for almost four weeks before they finally stopped.

no mnt bike experience with tubeless… just my HED wheels on the tri bike. im wondering if its these stupid tires i picked that are the problem. im not ok with doing loops right by where i live for a few miles then topping pressure back off 3 or 4 times just to get a 20 mile ride in.

Self sealing is great.

I would have had two flats at CassadagaMan but they self sealed.

I would have had a flat at Ironman NC, but I they self sealed.

Those tires that took four weeks to seal were replaced with a far less annoying tire brand that sealed instantly with no leaking. I know it took four weeks because I was injured and couldn’t ride and I left them to see what would happen. If I was in a rush, I would have swapped nearly immediately

Some tires are just a PITA to get to seat.
The “simplest” thing to do (but I’m frequently too lazy and skip these steps and then curse the mess of sealant I have on the garage floor):

  1. Mount tire with tube as standard
  2. Pull out tube leaving one bead seated.
  3. Put in tubeless valve with core out and seat other bead.
  4. Add sealant through valve, replace valve core and air up.

This is pretty dang fool proof and once the tires have been mounted for a while they “ trained” to shape and are usually much easier to remount if necessary.

You might try this. Put the tires on and fill with air until you hear them pop on. Then remove the valve core - Thurman wheel where the valve is in the 3 or 9 o’clock position. Fill with the sealant and install the valve core and fill with air.

Filling with air at 3 or 9 is much easier than pumping air through the sealant in the bottom.

Once the tire is sealed - it stays sealed if you slowly remove the air and then add the sealant.

I hope that helps.

Set them first without sealant, spray some windex on the rim channel to help them pop if needed. Add sealant and valve core, shake and go ride.

Or just use a tube. They work fine on a road bike anyway. Or live a little and ride tubulars

Problem with the silca sealant is you can’t put it through the valve. For this reason alone I went back to the standard orange seal, serious pain having to dump it into the tire.

People are having issues with the Silca sealant so you shouldn’t use that anyway until thats fixed. Many reports of drying up within 2 weeks and the carbon clumping into balls within that time.

I’ve had no issues with it aside from the lack of ease mounting/filling. But I did only use it for 3 tires, the remainder went into the trash.

What was the longest you went between checking that it’s still liquid and not clumped?

I went a month on 2 of them. In the heat of Las Vegas, no issues at all.

I recently went tubeless for first time. Zipp 404 plus Conti 5000 TRs in 30mm with MucOff sealant - running with 55psi front and 60psi rear.

Did a tonne of research beforehand via YouTube etc to learn how to install, top up sealant, what tyre pressure to run etc etc.

Installing was super simple. Topping up sealant very simple. No problems getting tyres seated. So far after 6 months not a single puncture and no problems. I’m converted.

Sealing tyres that require 1kg of pressure Vs 6kg with an inner rim that is half the width are completely different animals.

I think tubeless was a blessing in MTB and a curse in the road.

Correct. That’s why I was asking. It’s a lot easier if you have practice on a MTB first

How many months before the previous puncture? I changed to revoloop tubes February 21, and punctured June this year. And it was my mistake. 16 months since I swapped.

Rookie mistakes were made.

Don’t add sealant until after you have the bead set and tire holding air.

Have you done tubeless in MTB or anything prior?

A decade in, it’s all usually pretty automatic for me. Just put new Conti’s on some Ronald in inter ten minutes.

Some tires weep through the sidewall for a long time.

The WTB Riddler that came on my new gravel bike weeped sealant for almost four weeks before they finally stopped.
I know, I’m a dinosaur…
But, I’m not sure how weeping sealant for 4 minutes, let alone 4 weeks is a feature.

Call me a dinosaur too but I don’t like Tubeless on the road. With a max of 72.5/73 psi according to the standard. You’re nearly forced into a 27-28 mm tire minimum. Some 25’s do work but most don’t. The tubeless compatible rims are a PITA to get a tire onto, the tires are harder to mount and at the end of the day you can’t get the sealant to seal, you still get to chuck a tube into it. Maybe I’ll be forced or evolve enough to like it on the road but right now it’s an extra mess being pushed by these companies to sell new, different things. It’s great in the MTB life but don’t see it as being necessary on the road until you factor in the hookless rims are easier and cheaper to make, or so I’ve heard. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong though.

Rookie mistakes were made.

Don’t add sealant until after you have the bead set and tire holding air.

no. you can’t add silca sealant through the valve stem.