Ok, so we all know its the fit of the bike that’s most important. When you buy a fully built bike, you have a bunch of components already on it. Granted, you can switch them out…but lets be real, this has a huge impact on the feel and fit of the bike.
So, how does the bike purchase process change if your going to buy a frame, and build it up piece by piece. Do you get a frame that is in your fit “range”, then get the pieces that make it perfect? Do you even get on the frame completely built up as a bike?
I plan on doing a professional fitting before I even consider what my frame options are, as I know that I like to tweek a measurement here and there. In the mean time, I’ve used the competitivecyclist.com and wrenchscience.com “fit” systems. Gives me ranges of what I should get for the appropriate fit. So what is the best way to use this info?
I do bicycle fits at a shop in Boulder. It is not terribly difficult to figure out what frame size for you to order in a particular model based on some of your measurements, age, riding goals, etc. Once the frame size is chosen, the geometry of the specific frame will effect what size stem, bars, cranks, etc. you will need to order.
If you are doing all of this through a bicycle shop, they should be able to help you throughout the process. Even if you use an online retailer, they will help you pick the correct frame size and corresponding parts. The advantage in going to an LBS is they are normally more flexible when it comes to helping you if something doesn’t work out, and they have a hands on approach. I know the store I fit for is willing to swap out stems if one does not work out for the customer. We also ‘guarantee’ the fit of the bicycle, so there would be no need to actually ‘get on’ a fully built bike if you are concerned about the fit, because if we measure you and order a bike for you and it doesn’t end up fitting, we will happily take it back and get the right frame.
It sounds like you are going to have a professional fit before you even buy? Be honest with the fitter and tell them your intentions of buying a frame and components based on the fit session and they will likely give you guidance on the frame size/components to order.
I was guessing the LBS would be better. But how does that work with “boutique” brands. Can LBS still order a, let say Seven customTi frame, even if they aren’t listed as a Seven dealer? (or any other brand) Or would I have to go to a LBS that is an associated dealer?
No brands picked out…nothing picked out yet actually, just wondering how the logistics works out with all that
Most shops can get most anything. Even if a shop is not a “Stocking” Seven dealer, chances are that they can still get you a frame, just possibly at a lower margin than that of a stocking dealer. I am curious why you want to build up a frame…I have done so many times - but in the end I always get a straight groupset (Record of course) and the only options that I really pick are stem, bars, headset (King always) and tires. There really are not that many options out there if you think about it, unless you want to go crazy and spec Zero Gravity (Waste of money) brakes, Zipp Cranks, Ti Chain, custom one piece bar/stem (carbon), Ti cogs and what not - other wise…you are going to just buy a frame, and a kit and have a straight groupset like most of the rest of us.
While most dealers can get a lot of items that they do not normally stock, it is a bit more difficult for them to get frames/bikes if they are not a ‘dealer.’ It will certainly take a phone call or two, and a bit of schmoozing. That being said, any shop whose owner is worth his salt should be willing to give it a try, and they might just be able to hook you up with the frame/bike of your dreams even if they don’t stock it. The more boutique the brand, the better, as the larger brands have very very strict dealer agreements and aren’t about to bend the rules for 1 bike sale. But smaller frame builders and even some Euro lines that are carried by distributors in the U.S. should be attainable. A bike like a Seven might be difficult because they use a custom fit system that they might not want accessible by shops other than their dealers. I still think your best bet is your local shop, but then, I am biased and in Boulder ‘your local shop’ could be one of 10 or so highly capable dealers, any of whom could provide you with a high level of competency and service. I am not sure where you are, but if you don’t have a local shop that you trust to fit you correctly, go the professional fitting route and then order from your LBS.
I don’t like all the components that come with alot of bike, want to be able to put my own gruppo and my prefered stem, cranks, bars, etc.
Plus, I am all torso, but don’t like the feel of a tiny bike under me, so I may be needing custom. If I go that route and end up picking a brand that has a “build kit” I like, might just go with that.
And in the end, I like putting together and taking apart bikes
-bcreager
(Only decision I have made is to go with campy group for the first time. Not cause I dont like shimano, but I like the look of the internal cable routing on the shifters…why can’t shimano figure that out!!! Liked the feel of them too)
I am in San Diego, so lots of “recommended” professional fitters around. Got my tri bike fit at Nytro…it was ok, but didn’t blow me away by any means. I had to make a couple adjustments.
Living in San Diego you should be set, if you were in the middle of nowhere, you might have a harder time of it. There ought to be a ‘stocking dealer’ for every brand under the sun somewhere in your area!!
bcreager,
How do you like the competitivecyclist.com fit calculator? Did you have a hard time taking all the measurements? Did you have someone help you? Did you have a stool to sit on against the wall? Also, it seems to calculate your fit for a road bike, does this translate equally to a triathlon bike?
I liked it, just a tad better then wrench science cause I’m a sucker for killer website work. Gives you three different “fits” at the end which is nice, only one I can remember is lemond fit. Its gives lots of numbers, and couple cm range for most. I like how it gives your top tube, and reach, and a bunches of other stuff, so you can pick the appropriate stem, drop bars, etc.
Measuring yourself is impossible, have to have someone helping your. Thankfully there are some great pictures of what to measure, and how to take the measurement. I used a stool against the wall, make sure you have one that is low, i.e. feet on the ground. You will need that for a leg measurement.
I was just measuring for a road bike fit, haven’t translated the numbers over for triathlon bike yet. Have to try that when I get home (numbers are on my PC at home)
Perfect timing as I was just doing this last night. What I discovered though was that the Competitive Cyclist calculator measures arm length different from everyone else. They measure from wall to hand while you lean against a wall. Most others measure from base of arm (ie arm pit) to hand. This made a huge difference for me and depending on which way i did this, I should be on either a 55.5 or 54 top tube. Now I am in a quandry but I have some doubts about the competitive arm length approach.
Thankfully not to much of a difference though. I would say get the top tube that has the right seat tube length on it…you can use the stem length to get the right “reach” to the bars.
Doesn’t Competitive calculator measure from the arm pit too…thought I remembered that measurement, might have been wrenchscience though. Haven’t looked at it in a couple weeks, have to go back and check