what should one expect from upgrading from a r500 to a flo 30 on an r3 or p2?
Don’t know about 500’s, but I got Flo 30’s for my roadie… replacing Oval Concepts (model 535). Huge difference. With the Ovals, at the minimum recommended tire pressure, the bike just seemed to be jumping on every bump as if the pressure was too high. Same tire/pressure w/the Flo’s & suddenly, a smooth & far more comfy ride. I don’t have a power meter, but climbing seems to be so much more easier both perceived effort-wise & according to HR output. Who knows, maybe it’s all in my mind, but I feel that sustaining mid-20 MPHs on the Flo’s is much easier.
Hmm interesting I may check it out.
Some good information included in replies to my post yesterday with regard to upgrading from 500s to either Flo 30s or Cosmic Elites. It should be elsewhere on this page of the forum. What I heard back pretty much has me thinking I’m going to go with the Flo 30s. More expensive than the Cosmics (not crazily so) but I think an overall better wheel with more upside.
Question about the Flo 30 - on the Flo web site it mention the “angled braking track” of the rim; it also lists a “max width” instead of just a standard width. Do the pads / calipers need to be set up any differently for this? Ideally I’d like to use the Flo 30’s as a training wheel and be able to swap with my race wheels without any pad adjustment (they are the same width, or rather - the width of my race wheels is about the same as the max width of the Flo 30 rim).
If your race wheels have a “flat” brake track and not an angled one, this won’t be possible. Granted, adjusting the pads takes only a couple minutes to do this (loosen each side from caliper, apply brakes centering and tilting as needed, retighten, repeat with other brake).
I use the Flo30s on my roadie as an “all the time” wheel. The p2 has stock wheels for spin/training, and Flo60s for races.
They’re both regular bike wheels. Shouldn’t expect anything different really. Maybe I’m a little faster with my flo 30s than I was with my stock DT Swiss wheels?
The flos do hit my frame when I pedal hard though, especially if I get out of the saddle. I’ve had 808 FCs, Shimano 500s, Powertap wheels, etc. on this frame and the Flo 30s are the only ones that rub my frame when I pedal hard. Annoying. Also, you should expect that the black on the brake track will wear off pretty quickly and the brake track will look silver like on any other aluminum wheel.
Overall they’re a good alternative to “aero” wheels like the zipp 303s or 101s or whatever, but I think if I did it again I would have just picked up a set of HED Belgiums.
They’re both regular bike wheels. Shouldn’t expect anything different really. Maybe I’m a little faster with my flo 30s than I was with my stock DT Swiss wheels?
The flos do hit my frame when I pedal hard though, especially if I get out of the saddle. I’ve had 808 FCs, Shimano 500s, Powertap wheels, etc. on this frame and the Flo 30s are the only ones that rub my frame when I pedal hard. Annoying. Also, you should expect that the black on the brake track will wear off pretty quickly and the brake track will look silver like on any other aluminum wheel.
Overall they’re a good alternative to “aero” wheels like the zipp 303s or 101s or whatever, but I think if I did it again I would have just picked up a set of HED Belgiums.
Can I ask what size tire you are using and what frame you are getting the rub on? In almost every “rubbing” case we see, it’s the tire that is hitting the frame and not the actual rim.
Take care,
Question about the Flo 30 - on the Flo web site it mention the “angled braking track” of the rim; it also lists a “max width” instead of just a standard width. Do the pads / calipers need to be set up any differently for this? Ideally I’d like to use the Flo 30’s as a training wheel and be able to swap with my race wheels without any pad adjustment (they are the same width, or rather - the width of my race wheels is about the same as the max width of the Flo 30 rim).
The “maximum width” is the width of the rim. Since the FLO 30 is a toroidal rim shape, the body of the rim is wider than the brake track. The angle on the brake track is really small. I’ve never needed to adjust my pads when switching between my FLO 30s and my 60s, 90s, or DISC.
I hope that helps,
Can I ask what size tire you are using and what frame you are getting the rub on? In almost every “rubbing” case we see, it’s the tire that is hitting the frame and not the actual rim.
Take care,
It’s a Scott Addict frameset, 2011 I believe. Tires are 23mm conti gp4000s.
Can I ask what size tire you are using and what frame you are getting the rub on? In almost every “rubbing” case we see, it’s the tire that is hitting the frame and not the actual rim.
Take care,
It’s a Scott Addict frameset, 2011 I believe. Tires are 23mm conti gp4000s.
I just had a look at that frame online. From what I can see it gets really narrow where the tire passes. Are you certain it’s the rim rubbing and not the tire?
I am not certain. But the brake tract does get pretty close, so I assumed. I’ve had people mention it on group rides that everything looks really close to the frame. It might be a frame thing though?
I am not certain. But the brake tract does get pretty close, so I assumed. I’ve had people mention it on group rides that everything looks really close to the frame. It might be a frame thing though?
Well if the frame is simply too narrow then it could be a frame thing. You might want to try a thinner tire in the back if you have one. I’d try a 21mm tire and see if the problem persists. There are a handful of bikes out there that need a smaller tire.
How often is the rub occurring?