I carry a wrench in the jersey to change a flat if needed.
My other wheelset is a fixed/free where I have a 17t fixed and a 16t free. Check out the White Industries freewheels. Better quality (but 3x the price) than other freewheels.
If your going to ride a fixie on the street, anything less than a 100 inch gear is ghey, so run a 103" on on side, and a 108" when you want to go fast.
just carry a 1/2 in box wrench with you?
mine is fixed/free, i guess i could do something like that.
I wouldn’t bother with the freewheel - just pick a gear somewhere in the middle (that 49x16 ought to do you) and learn souplesse…
googling souplesse, brings up some things i probably shouldn’t click on from a government computer, but i gather means a sweet pedal stroke, no?
essentially, yes.
I’m running 48x16 on my 25 mile each way commute. It’s flat with some rollers and a few short, steeper (not quite steep) climbs. As was mentioned previously, wind is a killer, but it’s a pretty nice gear.
try this:
http://velophoria.blogspot.com/2008/12/souplesse-refined.html
it’s a blog about cycling, so it’s work safe. also, i think it gives a good idea to what souplesse means (or, at least, a good start). i recommend reading through the forum thread linked in the first paragraph.
and check out the videos.
cheers,
just carry a 1/2 in box wrench with you?
mine is fixed/free, i guess i could do something like that.
thanks for the tip. i am learning a lot from this thread.
Or one of these with the ever handy bottle opener.
Where can I pick one of those up? =]
When I had the 48X 16 fixie on, I only made it 80 miles. This is the 15mm tool I carry with me: http://www.bikeschool.com/store/Products/PG-BOPN1.html
When I commute it is in the chrome messenger bag, next to a mini pump, and when I ride just the bike it goes in the jersey pocket.
I ride a 49/15 for the tris on a flat surface - no hills here in south florida. As my strength increases, I will move to a 49/14 for the races. Right now, I train in a 49/13,14, and 15.
Sorry to hijack the thread with a question, but I am riding an old steel Schwinn Worldsport (my first road bike converted to SS circa late 80’s) as a SS with 40x16. I am intrigued by the fixed gear experience. I’ve been looking at flip-flop hubs on ebay and was wondering if a 40x16 would be OK for a fixed gear? I see everyone has larger front chainrings? I live in a hilly area (WV), so the 40x16 SS works well. I was riding a 39x16 last year and moved up to a 40 tooth this winter. I would use the fixie on the rail trails for fun. Thanks.
Sorry to hijack the thread with a question, but I am riding an old steel Schwinn Worldsport (my first road bike converted to SS circa late 80’s) as a SS with 40x16. I am intrigued by the fixed gear experience. I’ve been looking at flip-flop hubs on ebay and was wondering if a 40x16 would be OK for a fixed gear? I see everyone has larger front chainrings? I live in a hilly area (WV), so the 40x16 SS works well. I was riding a 39x16 last year and moved up to a 40 tooth this winter. I would use the fixie on the rail trails for fun. Thanks.
I converted the same bike. Found it on Craig’s List for $30.
You are a badass biker
Best I can do is 42x16
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To my mind, the only real training benefit of a fixie is to get some people out of their comfort zone cadence wise. Whether or not you need that is dependent on your current level of experience and the structure of your training. Riding a fixie will not make you “strong” or “fast” in a meaningful way but it will help your bike handling (pedalling through corners and anticipation) and it’s fun. If someone can explain to me how it helps your pedalstroke any more than cadence work or one-leg drills on a normal bike that most serious riders do I’m all ears.
Oh and yes I have a fixie I ride to uni. 42-16. Keeps me from sweating and it’s a great gear for doing trackstands and backwards circles at the lights.
Please remember that BBs on track bikes are higher. The BB on your bike may be low and thus, you need to make sure your cranks are short enough to clear/not pedal strike the ground when cornering at speed. Tip for new players 
I was always told to run a 73inch gear for on-road training. This was by an old track coach, and he was talking about winter training. FWIW, that is a different type of riding than either balls out alleycat or velodrome racing. That puts you with a 17t or an 18t. Starting out you may want the 18t for gearing, but would probably move to the 17t soon. For my use the 17t is almost a given for one side of the hub, the question is what do you want for the other side.
other side !
you only need one
I flip mine depending on the workout. If I was him I would probably have a 17t on one side for regular riding and a 15t on the other for bigger gear riding.
To the OP: I’d go with the 16, maybe switch it out in the middle of summer for the 15. I’d avoid switching all the time. Run whatca brung. If you end up switchg cogs all the time, especially during a ride, you are essentially turning yourself into an inefficient derailuer.
I have a Surly Cross-Check that I have set up as a gravel/cross fixie. I did a 100 mile gravel ride yesterday in a 42/16. I was dropped immediately by the gearies down the first hill. It was a workout. By the end I felt like someone had been punching me in the legs for several hours.
Have fun.