I just did my first disc brake bleed. It was ridiculously complex. Bleeding brakes on a car is relatively quick and simple. Whomever invented this convoluted dual-syringe method for bikes needs to be punched in the teeth with brass knuckles. Oh, and SRAM’s “bleeding edge” tool is just clunky and dumb. There had to have been a better way.
Not one of my favorite things to do either.
But once you done it, you know what to expect the next time and it’ll get easier.
Keep a bucket with soapy water close by, and lots of rags. Put some cardboard boxed on the floor, and just wipe off any spilled brake fluid immediately.
I did it now maybe 10 times on various bikes, and was able to reduce the amount of spillage dramatically. Take your time, keep everything clean, and wipe off everything after you are done. (Tools and all.)
There is a better way, it’s a cable brakeset, LOL. On a serious note, when I saw what was involved with hydraulic setups, the first thing I did to my new bike a couple of years ago was rip off the Dura-Ace BR-9170 hydraulic brake system and installed a much cheaper TRP mechanical one, well mostly mechanical but cable-actuated. Still have the DA brakes somewhere collecting dust. I make changes to my bikes often and did not want to even think about the extra work and care hydraulic brakes require. Didn’t make any sense at all to me for my needs.
I reinstalled the brake lines recently due to a complete cockpit upgrade that was necessary and I’m so glad I removed those hydraulic brakes. This project took a very long time because it involved partly custom work. I hate to think what additional complexities and delays I would have gone through if I didn’t switch to cables. Took over a month as it was. I won’t be installing a hydraulic system until I have no choice.
You don’t actually have to do the dual syringe for SRAM. You can thread on the reservoir to the brake lever same as Shimano and push through till no bubbles.
I didn’t actually find the dual syringe any less complicated. But in comparison to automobiles there is less margin for error, regardless of which system.
SRAM brake bleeding and their idiotic insistence of using DOT fluid instead of mineral oil is why I only ride Shimano. TBH, SRAM drivetrains are so much cleaner and seem to be the better engineered product - but the brakes are absolute trash.
Their latest MTB brake is mineral oil, and I suspect the next gen of road brakes will be too - so there is hope.
Hard disagree. Their shifting input system(left up, right down) is intuitive, but the execution of the shift front and rear is inferior to Shimano. Sram had a foothold in wireless for TT/Tri, but now that Shimano has made the bars wireless there is really no benefit to Sram
Bleeding isn’t the most fun thing to do, but it definitely gets easier the more you do it. Agree DOT is stupid given the messiness of these systems. Glad SRAm is finally seeing the light and going mineral oil.
Added tip, remove your brake pads and clean all of your stuff thoroughly after you bleed. Spray rubbing alcohol on your caiplers and rotors and clean them up. One tiny drop of mineral oil or DOT on your pads or rotors and you’ll be buying a new set of pads.
I was a die hard Shimano person, but SRAM AXS is a superior system. I do like the sycro shift customization on Shimano better, but their app is garbage. Their TT system isn’t ideal with wired shifters. Great brake ergonomics on Shimano, but the wireless flexibility of SRAM is worth it over that small ergo benefit. The other thing I think sucks on Shimano is how delicate their blip shifters are. I had two brake during air travel. They use these little tiny plastic hinges and you’re unable to fix em if they break. That was enough alone to make me switch and I don’t regret it. (And that is hard as I was addiment about Shimano).
I’ve had both Shimano and Sram. I hate it when people say one is better than the other - I like how you approached it Most of the people throwing shade have realistically never fairly tried the competition.
Don’t understand the hate I’ve seen in the thread for DOT brake fluid. Regardless of DOT brake fluid or mineral oil, it’ll destroy pads if contact is made. DOT IS superior to mineral oil. Withstands colder and hotter temperatures, and it has a much higher boiling point. That part is science, not opinion. Mineral oil has a longer service interval, so it’s great for grandmas grocery bike. I like SRAM - their focus has always been on user serviceability and DOT fluid can be had at any auto store.
My tip for brake bleeds would be alcohol in a spray bottle. Full bleed needs two syringes, “top up” or quick bleed to get rid of any bottles just one at the top. Don’t forget the bleed blocks. Magnetize any wrenches used to remove screws unless you want to risk playing where’s Waldo (Shimano was using aluminum for a while…).
I like SRAM and have it on all bikes. Only 3 are disc and bleeding is not an issue. Takes a little time and once done it takes a long time to have to do it again. Also the dual syringe keeps it a pretty clean maintenance task.