Nope. Read the link you posted again. The recommendation is to flush once a year. Flushing skips a few steps:
Turn off heater
Let cool
Connect hose
Put hose in sump
Open drain valve
Wait for a while
Close drain valve
Turn on heater
The idea is that the tank drain is at the bottom of the tank and you will be pulling all the sediment while it is constantly being refilled from the top.
I eventually replaced the leaky pressure valve. It was a very slow leak that didnāt impact its pressure control performance, just a result of some crud. I could drain it enough to replace the valve. That is when I learned what Windy just did that I didnāt have to drain the tank in the first place on an annual basis and just a flush would work.
I would suggest not turning heater on until you have cleared all the lines of air. Make sure there is no more gurgling sounds at any faucet. This ensures the tank does not have any air in it. you can burn out a heating element if tank is not full.
Removing sediment also protects your lower electric water heater element. If sediment fills to element it will burn out.
If you have an expansion tank, be sure to check its air pressure and confirm it is working. You could find it has failed and does not hold pressure requiring it be replaced.
I am not an expert on the topic, but the goal is to have the water come out of the drain valve clean. I think you probably do a better job if you drain, flush and drain again, but you are probably 90% of the way there if you just open the drain valve and flush for 10 minutes.