The Omega X is indeed compatible with the Serios, and any other Shimano Direct-Mount applications (the new Cannondale Slice, for example).
Any updates on the build or general impressions of the bike? I’m thinking about ordering one this week but am still debating over the serios or P2.
Finally finished the original da di2 wiring and omega x brakes. Love the easy set up of brakes. Waiting for Hawk Racing pf30 bb then get to go ride. Will upload images tomarrow. No riding yet.
Just wanted to add a few notes to your build experience…
**Steering limit pin: **
The pin can be removed, but as you pointed out – no more dings in top tube from handle bars or down tube from brake caliper. The turn radius is limited, but after a few rides on the Serios , I felt like it had more than adequate turning ability for most races situations.
BB/ Di2 Access:
There is access thru the BB on the Serios.
** **
The Praxis BB on the Serios is one of their earlier designs that has a aluminum sleeve that is inserted into a frame prior to inserting the bearing cups. In this version, the sleeve must be removed in order to run the wiring.
Praxis’ newest Shimano BB for PF30/BB30 does have access ports thru the aluminum frame sleeve that will let a junction box through, making running of the Di2 wiring easier.
The hardest part is running wire thru the rear chain stay. However, since I did not have the specific Shimano wire routing tool from Park (http://www.parktool.com/...ble-routing-kit-ir-1), I created a makeshift wire pull utilizing a typical shifter cable, running it through the frames chain stay from the Rear derailleur to the BB.
Then I attached the wire to cable narp using a small piece of electrical tape. (in photo example below I used scotch tape to help illustrate).Then I slowly pulled wiring harness through chain stay to BB to connect to the junction box.
routing all cables - must feed a filler line before taking out.
easy enough but takes time.
we did custom build with original Shimano 7900 Di2 (no e-tube wiring-so had to make modifications for frame to get the wires to fit inside.
We installed Hawk Racing PF30 bottom bracket (to fit 46mm shell) to go with the RotorPower 30mm axle cranks.
Serios has no outside Di2 battery mounts. With Original Di2 wiring had do do a custom internal batter harness. Battery in now inside seat tube.
20k TT - easy pace ride actually completed
Bike/Ride characteristics
Felt solid. dampens road vibrations very nicely.
No flex.
Limited steering (lock to lock) not a problem at all.
Compared to Kestrel 4000 - the Serios is a little bit stiffer
Not a harsh ride.
Omega X brakes - great modulation and control
No rattles - no extra noises. Quiet ride.
Heavier than the Kestrel 4000.
Frame size and build weight?
frame size 56
real world weight - 20.05 lbs (via non-certified scale)
RotoPower crank - add a bit of weight
aero Qrings add weight
bottle cage adds weight
computer and bell add weight
top tube bag adds weight
Rolf Ares 9 and 8 carbon clincher wheels add weight
di2 components and battery add weight
Profile J4 clamps add a lot of weight
One could definitely build a sub 18 lbs version.
I had my first race on my Serios at Boulder 70.3, and it went great. The bike really seemed to be fast and handle well (all anectodal - can’t compare times as I never raced there before). I’m happy with with the handling, and feel. I climb a lot around here (Santa Monicas) and it climbs and descends well for a tri-bike.
Here are some pics and a description of my setup for IM. I’m pasting from a blog post, so sorry it’s so long, but I thought there might be some interest–even if just to make fun of my bike, driveway, fence, garage, etc.
Taper week for IMChoo, so I finally have some time to type a review of my new racing chariot. I upgraded to the DiamondBack Serios this summer.
I had some anxiety about changing bikes in the middle of Ironman training. The fit was dialed in on my old bike, I had working power meter, tested ways of carrying nutrition, and I knew I could race well on it.
It took a couple rides and some back and forth with my fitter, but the first time I rode the bike with the right fit, I knew I was racing on the Serios.
Diamondback did a lot right here. The bike just *feels *fast. I can’t prove it, but I’m confident that this is the fastest bike I’ve ever ridden. One small measure, as of this writing, I have uploaded 1149 laps of Hanes Point on Stava. Over 1000 of those laps were on different bikes, but my 5 fastest have all been on this one. My wattage isn’t higher than past years, so it’s proof enough for me that this bike is measurably faster than my old one.
The bike rides the way it should. Stable and properly weighted. No detected wobbles. Responsive in and out of the saddle. Some folks have mentioned the limits on the turning radius. I don’t find it to be a problem at all. Even U-turns in the road are fine.
The stock build is high-end. On the Serios AF, it comes with the integrated corsair bars, full Ultegra Di2, and Hed jet 5 wheels. That’s an awful lot of bike. It also ships 99% built. This is an amazing feature. They also have a community of support on their website for folks that need help. Even if you’re not a mechanic, if you have basic familiarity with your bike, you can probably have the bike ready to ride within an hour of taking it out of the box.
That said, I suspect most folks will still want to take it to a shop. For me, I wanted help cutting the steering tube and aero bar extensions and also adapting my fit.
I put a lot of thought into setting the bike up in a way that was comfortable, fast, and carries all the food, Osmo, and gear I need. Another shout out to the Bicycle Pro Shop and my father for patiently helping me solve problems as I obsessed over details.
I was able to move the quarq powermeter from my Kestrel to the Serios. It took some work. Quarq is owned by Sram, and the DiamondBack came with Shimano, so the powermeter and chain rings weren’t compatible. Reading online there was some question about whether Sram chainrings are stiff enough to handle Shimano’s Di2 shifting. I wound up buying Praxis rings with Sram’s bolt pattern and they’ve worked like a charm.
The next challenge I ran into was the disc wheel. My disc is 10 speed and the DiamondBack is 11. I really didn’t want to have to buy a new disc. Eric at the Pro Shop was able to solve the problem by removing a cog from an 11 speed cassette, fitting it on the 10 speed wheel, and then limiting the rear cassette and adjusting the Di2.
Shift quality has been fine. I notice a small hitch when the chain goes over the missing cog, but it makes the shift every time. I don’t get to take full advantage of the DB’s 11 speed drivetrain, but I have enough gears and didn’t have to spend $2000 on a new disc wheel, so I’m happy.
For hydration, I have the Torhans 30 oz between my aerobars and a single bottle behind the seat. Plan is obviously to rely on on course nutrition to fill the Torhans on the fly. The rear bottle is affixed to my saddle with a half dozen zip ties. The Pro Shop (remember I told you they were awesome?) helped me lock it down, even drilling a small hole in the carbon cage to make room for one last zip tie.
I cut both the straw and the fairing for the straw to make the Torhans more aero and less likely to smack me in the face and I mounted my Garmin between the aerobars directly in front of the bottle. I’m using the aero tray behind the Tornans bottle to put my flat repair kit and nutrition overflow that doesn’t fit in the bento box. I can get 4 Clifbar block packs on top of the tray (about 750 calories). And if you look back at the front view, it’s all completely hidden from the wind.
One last custom mod I’m proud of. DiamondBack hides the Di2 battery in the seat post with a port inside the large headset. This is a solid approach that will work for most people. Especially with all the adjustment I was doing to make the 10 speed disc work, I wanted easier access to the port. So I cut a small hole in the bento box and ran the cables through the headset and stuck the charging port in the box. It’s worked great, so it’s an idea people may want to steal.
I think that’s it. The bike is ready for the Ironman, so hopefully, I am too!
You’d think after 1149 laps you’d learn how to spell it. Bam, I’m outta here.
FWIW, I have the same exact mod on a bento box on my Speed Concept
.
11-speed modding to 10 speed seems a bit complicated and perhaps finnicky for race day.
Check out Token’s 11 sp. cassette: http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/category/components/sprocket-cluster-cassette/product/review-token-11-speed-cnc-cromo-cassette-49145/
It is supposed to work on 10 sp. freehubs and could make your disc compatible with your new groupset.
I have one of those on my road bike. Spacing at the hub is slightly different so it requires a little bit of adjustment at the RD but once set up it shifts wonderfully and is surprisingly light.
That’s another option to look at.
I actually feel good about the way the disc is set up. I’ve ridden a few hundred miles on it and it shifts just fine. Even if I shift past the 25, with the limit set, it doesn’t go anywhere. It still “thinks” it’s an 11 speed, so I have one more click past my top gear. But if I click past the last cog, I just have to click twice to go back down. That, the sacrifice of 10 speeds instead of 11, and a little noise when I shift past the missing cog have been the only downsides. None of that will affect my race, and it all works reliably.
Good to hear some decent real world reviews for this bike. Unfortunately DBs lack of secondary wind tunnel tests have resulted in very little buzz around this bike. Anyways,decided to give it a shot and pulled the trigger on a Serios S today. Coming from a used 2013 QR Kilo, I hope to spend some time getting fit on the new bike and start my journey into Triathlons. I do think its a great looking bike and very well priced, especially the S model. Plan on a couple TriRig mods. Mainly the Omega X and Sigma X ( when its released and if it fits the Serios S).
Anyone else purchased a Serios yet? Thinking about ordering the S model over the Ordu and P2 due to cost and the layout.
I tried to buy a frameset without the Corsair bar since I run Campy and already have a Corsair bar, but they did not want to deal. I guess they are not that “Serios” about getting bikes out racing. I plan on keeping my B2 until I can afford an IA or find a P2 frameset.
While I do think it is odd that they do not do bare frames I think they are going to be firm on offering complete bikes with no mods. Honestly without the ST discount or Promotive discount I do not think many people are going to buy these. The prices they are listing at are too high and people will not look twice when they can get a P2 for $2800.