So the front derailleur tab on my '05 Tequilo finally broke. It snapped at the top of the cutout for the derailleur bolt. I don’t think I can repair the aluminum per se, my first inclination is to pinch the alu closed at the top between a bolt and nut and possibly a deformed washer. Anyone that’s more of an expert and less of a tinkerer than me have any ideas?
Actually I just talked to my little brother who’s pretty good with alu and he thinks we can weld (real weld) it back together. He’s going to break out the TIG welder and get a hold of the rods we need and we’re going to give it a shot. As much as I want a new frame, and this would be a good excuse, things are way too tight so it’s back to good old fashioned mucking about.
What I really should do is HTFU and only ride with the big ring from now on. Actually I rarely use the small ring but dread the few times I need it being without it. Plus the bike would be more aero without the derailleur and tab right?
Actually I just talked to my little brother who’s pretty good with alu and he thinks we can weld (real weld) it back together. He’s going to break out the TIG welder and get a hold of the rods we need and we’re going to give it a shot. As much as I want a new frame, and this would be a good excuse, things are way too tight so it’s back to good old fashioned mucking about.
What I really should do is HTFU and only ride with the big ring from now on. Actually I rarely use the small ring but dread the few times I need it being without it. Plus the bike would be more aero without the derailleur and tab right?
I’d be more apt to suggest a call to QR first.
Failing replacement from them, I’d see if the area can be machined flat and a bolt on style mount can be added, riveted, and/or bonded on.
There are a number of sources for a bolt on mount, you just need to get the angle and location somewhat accurate.
Good Luck, I think you’ll take great satisfaction in keeping this bike alive.
It can be done (have done several myself) by welding. Make sure they use the correct alloy rod (likely 6061-T6) and they might want to consider putting a cool damp cloth around where they will be welding. Not essential but an ounce of prevention. If they get heavy handed…that’s a good thing. After it has a chance to cool take a carbide Dremel bit to it (a like one with a fairly fine rasp to it) and ever so slowly remove the excess weld until you can fit your der back into the cavity. You will want him to prep the area around the weld first too. Clean off any paint and oxidation with a Dremel. The last couple I did you would be hard pressed to tell from factory original but it takes time and patience.
Material that thin (the seat tube) is very hard to TIG unless the guy welding is very good. I’m a decent welder and would burn that baby up in an instant… (edit: the above poster has a pretty good procedure- but I still think its take some skill)
Grinding it off, sanding it smooth and going clamp-style would be easier, but both options are ok.
I emailed them as soon as I found out. It’s a 4 year old bike so I don’t know how much they can do in terms of a replacement but who knows.
I wish things were better as this would have been a fantastic excuse for that B2…but you’re right I truthfully take a lot of pride in my older/beater bike and going very fast past some people with much newer/fancier bikes. This bike has been VERY good to me and I want to keep it going as long as I can…though I do still have the urge for a B2, but I try not to say anything when I’m around the Tequilo.
Couple others beat me to it… my first 2 inclinations were 1) file it down smooth and employ a clamp adapter, or 2) go w/ a track-ish (48-50T) single ring.