I’d like to get a slightly larger small chain ring on my FSA compact. It has a 110mm x 5 bolt pattern and came with a 34T low ring. I haven’t seen anyone selling different size rings for these cranks, but I have noticed that the FSA mountain bike cranks have the same bolt pattern and are available in different sizes. Is there any reason the mountain bike rings wouldn’t work?
Thanks,
Jonathan
Why not just by the FSA 110 BDC road chainrings?
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=25&pid=67
I have bought FSA small chainrings in size 36 and 38. I haven’t installed them, but they look fine. I got them from aebike.com, I think. I just checked their website and the road versions weren’t there, but, if you look around, you should find them.
I wouldn’t think the mountain bike chainrings would be a good idea.
You should be able to get a 36t small ring for your FSA compact crank. I have one, although I can’t quite find it right now. If you can’t find it anywhere else, let me know and I’ll search a bit harder.
I have 36/52 FSA rings on Gossmar compact cranks - ork fine. According to LBS (depending where you are) they might be hard to come by.
What’s the biggest step or gap you can have between chainrings? I’ve got a 34/50. Could I go to 34/52?
34/50 is pretty big. I wouldn’t go any wider.
Shimano recommends a difference of 14 teeth max.
I have the same 50/34 and my chainline and shifting are a nightmare. Having that combo, on a tri bike, with the short chainstays really doesn’t work all that well.
I ran the same combo on my tri bike (very short 38.8 cm chainstay) without any problem. I think it’s more of an adjustment issue than anything. It’s going to be a bit more sensitive than a 39/53 setup, but a decent mechanic should have no problems.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by it doesn’t work all that well?
Like you said its more sensitive, I’ve found that whenever I cross chain even the slightest that it’s pretty loud and that my chain is wearing very fast.
I switched from the 34 to a 38 inner. I found I didnt need the 34 for race season when I am pushing the climbs and you had to cross the chain a lot. With a 38 you can leave it in the small ring for longer. What I like about the compact is that I can run a smaller chainring if I want to. For example if I ride the Mt Humboldt time trial (4 miles at average 12% grade) I can run the 34. If you have a 130 BCD crank you cant go below a 38. I also have a 36 inner which I could use for certain courses.
The best thing about compact cranks are the choices. You dont have to run compact gears, but you can if the course calls for them.
Interesting. Are you sure everything’s adjusted correctly? Chain the correct length? I assume by “cross chain in the slightest” that you don’t mean you’re completely cross chaining, right? If it’s loud it probably means that your chain is stretching out.
I’ve had the 50/34 FSA crankset for almost 1-1/2 years on my road bike, chainstays = 41.3, and I cross chain to the max. I know, I know, but I like it… I have my fd (da 9) adjusted to run on the big and big so I don’t have to get on the small chainring unless the hill is really steep or really long. my front shifting is as good as it gets. shimano claims a 14 tooth delta (they’re always conservative), but 16 works great. you can do 52/34, but its a bit finicky and requires a little finesse (wouldn’t try it under race conditions). all this might go out the window with short chainstays.