I just picked up a FSA SL-K COMPACT MEGAEXO. (I am using a 12/25 rear cassette)The LBS installed it and I am having problems with the shifting. It is a 50/34 and the 34: 12 13 14 15 16 gears scrape the derailer. I could understand the 34/12 and 34/13 scraping but the others seem like too much. I have the limits screws set in their optimal position to give me the 34/25 without any scraping. FYI: My bike mechanic skills are not strong so maybe I messed something up.
In addition. switching from the small to big ring requires me to let up on all pressure to the crank arm itself. It will shift on the work stand but not when I am actually pedaling on the road. Anything special that needs to be done to get the shifting to work. I know a ton of people here have had great success with Compacts and DA and I am sure I just need to make some adjustments. Thanks for the help.
I am NOT a skilled mechanic, but have a short comment that will at least get you back on the front page…
my wife’s new bike was having all sorts of problems with shifting/chainline when using a FSA “something or another” compact crank with the new ULT-10 (got to be damn near the same as DA). Sought advice here, tried THREE different mechanics, talked to FSA, really everything I - or anyone else- could think of and just could not get “good” shifting. I can’t recall what everyone’s idea of the actual problem was, but it ultimately came done to nobody could get it to work just right…maybe something unique to the bike frame itself and it’s specific BBwidth, chainstays, whatever. She ended up switching to ULT-10 standard crank and just decided to get stronger and ride a 12-27 until then. Absolutely perfect shifting now…go figure. Don’t forget Shimano’s new compact comes out soon
SOoo, no solution for you, sorry!, but at least you’re back on the front page
Thanks Don. I guess I am off to the LBS tonight and if they cannot get it to work I will switch back. The worst part is that I have a race this weekend and I was looking forward to using the new set up. I know I know never mess with your bike the week of a race. I am not that smart.
I am not sure if you fixed your problem yet but if your lbs changed the cranks and the problem developed I would take it elsewhere. That said I run compacts and DA10 currently with zero problems, my road bike had compacts and DA 9, again no problems. If your chain was a bit on the long side before the crank change and they did not take a couple links out you could run into this problem. The chain is not putting enough tension on the derailer to pull it away from the cogset. Pull your chain a bit and see if you get some clearance. You may also want to check the tension adjustment screw. I set my chain length for a 12-25 and havew no problem with a low of 11 or a high of 27 if I need it.
Thanks for the info. I just got back form the LBS and he did shorten the chain and made some other adjustments with the front derailer. I have a 05 Team soloist and I guess there are some problems if you have a braze on derailer hanger which I have. The shorter chain stays on the soloist also have something to do with the probem but I have no idea what. The mechanic lost me on that one.
I can now shift from the small to big chainring but I have to ease up on my pedaling to be most effecient with the switch. Do you think getting the FSA front derailer will help with this issue? Thanks again for your response.
By the way where is the tension adjustment screw and how do you set it for a specific rear cassette? Sorry but I am trying to learn. The Zinn book helps but it is not Dummy’d down enought for me. Thanks again.
The “b” tension screw is the little one that has no apparent function near where the derailer mounts to the frame. Here is a link with a picture and a description. Info is about half way down the page. All of the bikes I have put compacts on have braze on hangers, the bar ends on my tri bike was great for shifting even with 650 wheels and a short chainstay. The road bike with STI was not optimal but worked fine unless I was not paying attention and had it in the top 2 cogs in the back. My new bike they are mounting the braze on 4mm lower. I have not tried the FSA derailer, but they are so cheap that it could be worth a try. I think you should be able to get good shifting unless you expect to be able to mash while shifting, personally I ease just a bit on any shift. Good luck.
Thanks for all the help. The shifting is better but I would like to be able to get the 34/14,15,16 gears. As of right now they all scrape the front derailer. I may have to try the FSA front derailer to get this fixed. Thanks again
Yes, the lower cage would probably help, I never use those gears, my 34 is a bailout gear for the big hills. By the time I am shifting up front I am committed to low speed/high cadence.
"I know I know never mess with your bike the week of a race. I am not that smart. "
I did that same thing last night. Big race on Monday, I’m leaving tomorrow. So I am in the garage oiling and I think ‘I should try and tighten up the shifting a bit’. WWWWWWWWWRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOONNNNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGG! Emergence run to the LBS who fixed it up for me despite no room in the lineup. whew. Thank god for Alameda Bicycle.
