I am attempting to learn how to work on my bikes (at least minor stuff) and currently do not own a torque wrench. I’ve read some articles and watched some youtube video about replacing/changing cassettes and they always mention using a torque wrench when installing it. What bad things can happen if I just use a regular wrench and tighten it down? One of the videos I watched talked about it was okay to do this once you “get the feel” for how tight to tighten it. I have “no feel” because I’ve never done it. If it matters, I’m going to practice/play around with an old aluminum training wheel (not a Zipp or anything expensive). Any insight would be appreciated.
I am attempting to learn how to work on my bikes (at least minor stuff) and currently do not own a torque wrench. I’ve read some articles and watched some youtube video about replacing/changing cassettes and they always mention using a torque wrench when installing it. What bad things can happen if I just use a regular wrench and tighten it down? One of the videos I watched talked about it was okay to do this once you “get the feel” for how tight to tighten it. I have “no feel” because I’ve never done it. If it matters, I’m going to practice/play around with an old aluminum training wheel (not a Zipp or anything expensive). Any insight would be appreciated.
I never used a torque wrench to R&R a cassette. Never had any incident when I just went by feel - give it a good crank down, but not too tight that you might break something or not be able to remove it later.
n=1 though, I am sure someone will chime in saying you need to be exact 
While some may insist that it is super important to use a torque wrench on absolutely everything, I’ve never used one on a cassette lockring and I’ve never had the lockring strip or loosen. And I’m sure there are thousands of other people who have done the same with no ill effects. You can probably get at least somewhat close if you use a wrench with a 12" handle and apply the same pressure it would take to lift ~30 pounds…
Or ignore me and read this- http://blog.artscyclery.com/ask-a-mechanic/ask-a-mechanic-wobbling-cassettes-and-lock-ring-torque/
x2. Though I’m a torque wrench fan, I don’t have a cassette-capable torque wrench, so using a standard 6" socket wrench I go until it’s initially “tight,” and then get a good grip on the wheel and give it one more good push. Not a monster crank, just a good, solid push that turns the wrench another 5 deg. or so. There’s not much that can go wrong. I’ve never had a loose cassette nor ever damaged a cassette/freehub body or stripped the threads.
While some may insist that it is super important to use a torque wrench on absolutely everything, I’ve never used one on a cassette lockring and I’ve never had the lockring strip or loosen. And I’m sure there are thousands of other people who have done the same with no ill effects. You can probably get at least somewhat close if you use a wrench with a 12" handle and apply the same pressure it would take to lift ~30 pounds…
Or ignore me and read this-http://blog.artscyclery.com/...nd-lock-ring-torque/
x whatever, I am a total novice and am now a cassette changing genius. I never even thought about the torque, I just tighten until I get the clicking and then give it one more decent push. Interesting in that link, 40nm of torque… given that my seatpost is at 7,5, that’s a lot of torque
Interesting in that link, 40nm of torque… given that my seatpost is at 7,5, that’s a lot of torqueYeah, a lockring needs to be seriously tight. You don’t want to necessarily gorilla it, but you do want some good solid pressure. Shimano lockrings also have a thin, deformable washer that increases friction. Since you’re dealing with such high torque and the margin for error is relatively sizable, I see no need for a torque wrench when tightening down a lockring.
I would agree with most above. No real need for one. I did without one for 7-8 years with no ill effects. However, I think you can pick one up from Harbor Freight tools for like $20. Probably not your most accurate wrench, but maybe it’ll get you closer to where you want to be torque wise with less guessing.
When I first started I broke a spoke on the rear and had a shop change it. Later I was riding along and my shifting went bad. I realized the locking was totally loose and the cogs were sliding about when I wanted to shift. I went to the nearest store and purchased a tool and tightened it myself. I didn’t have a torque wrench for quite some time and never regretted it. It is prudent to use one though. Realize that often the specs are max torque specs, so you can tighten things a bit less and still be okay. Tightening things beyond the rated maximum risks stripped threads or crushed bike parts (carbon steerers, etc). The 3/8" micrometer style harbor freight one is sensible for bb’s and lock rings. You might as well learn about thread prep too. Park tool has nice articles for free.
I’ve been changing cassetttes for 20 years, never used a torque wrench and never damaged anything. Never seen my LBS use a torque wrench on a cassette either.
Wow, I had no idea they were that cheap. Thanks for all the replies. I think I’ll buy a cheap torque wrench just to be on the safe side.
Never used one, and they’re all still workin fine.