OK, so…I went 1.5 years with out cleaning my bike at all (Cervelo P2C) and finally I felt disgusted when I took it back to the shop and Andy told me, DUDE, if you want to buy a new bike every two years, keep treating your bikes like this. His comments made me feel dirty all over.
Now, I am a “Cleaning my Bike Freak.” I understand it is much easier to client the chain with a reusable link on the chain.
So the concern is, is having a reusable link risky? How easy is it to snap a reusable link? Am I thinking that I am the Incredible Hulk when I am not?
Please share your thoughts/experiences with a reusable link. Btw, I do not have any measures on the amount of torque or watts I churn out.
I have not had a problem with them, nor have I heard of any for normal use. The problems I have heard of are from people who keep reusing the same link over and over.
Good job getting on the cleaning your bike bandwagon. 1.5 years is deplorable.
I use SRAM chains with their gold power links whenever possible (if the LBS has SRAM chains in stock). These power links make it super easy to take your chain off and then put back on after cleaning. Sometimes I’ll soak the chain in degreaser while it is off the crank. I have noticed no deterioration in power (I don’t measure it however) when using power links.
Those master links are just as strong as a normal link…or at least strong enough that I’ve never heard of a failure.
The problem with Shimano’s 9 and 10 speed chains with their non-reusable link pins is that they have a big tendency to unpin. I have had to throw away 4 shimano chains from 2 road bikes and 2 mtn bikes in the last year. It wasn’t just the pins that I had used to break my chain at either…I had virgin links come unpinned too. I kept trying to rehab one chain over 5 disconnects then I finally lost that chain in a race. That chain came completely off my bike and when I inspected the chain there was another link half undone. (But I took off my shoes and hoofed it barefoot to T2 and finished the race…how’s that for HTFU?)
I won’t use Shimano chains anymore…but if you choose to use them definitely put in a master link.
If you are concerned about power output, I can tell you that I’m a Clydesdale and on some mountain bike climbs I’m putting all of my 500lbs worth of squat strength in to the pedals. And I’ve been shown to be able to unpin chains. Yet no master link issues.
SRAM with the link is my choice. Each one I’ve had has lasted very long and the link takes about 5 seconds to undo and get the chain into some cleaner. Never had a problem and would not change to a different chain unless it was a gift. Even still, I have some links lying around that I’d install rather than a pin. That’s just my $0.02.
If you are concerned about power output, I can tell you that I’m a Clydesdale and on some mountain bike climbs I’m putting all of my 500lbs worth of squat strength in to the pedals.
Did you install a seatbelt or equivalent on your mountain bike? Or are you a really, Really Big ™ Clydesdale?
We use the KMC links, I find them easier to remove than the SRAM ones. I have not had an issue with a removeable link, lots of issues with the Shimano joining pins, although that seemed to be primarily when they first introduced the 10 speed chain. Its interesting that the new Dura Ace 7900 chain comes with a removeable link.
I think he’s mearly stating he can squat 500lbs, which if he is a Clyde like me, doesnt seem unreasonable. I too have broken several Shimano push pins on my MTB, but have had no issues since switching to SRAM.
Who makes a replaceable pin?
Wasn’t there a time when all pins on a chain were replaceable? You pushed one out not quite all the way, took off the chain, cleaned same, reinstalled the chain and pushed the pin back.
If you are concerned about power output, I can tell you that I’m a Clydesdale and on some mountain bike climbs I’m putting all of my 500lbs worth of squat strength in to the pedals.
Did you install a seatbelt or equivalent on your mountain bike? Or are you a really, Really Big ™ Clydesdale?
I have squatted up to 500lbs…on the bike you can only put out as much force to the chain as equals the resistance to forward movement…You can easily put more than bodyweight in to the pedals by pulling upwards with the clipped in foot. I can lift close to 100lbs off the ground with my hip flexors and weigh 200lbs so it’s conceivable that on my most extreme pedal push I’m getting near 300lbs, but obviously never sustained. All considered I was assuming that I have probably stressed my chain at times more than the OP.
If you are concerned about power output, I can tell you that I’m a Clydesdale and on some mountain bike climbs I’m putting all of my 500lbs worth of squat strength in to the pedals.
Did you install a seatbelt or equivalent on your mountain bike? Or are you a really, Really Big ™ Clydesdale?
I have squatted up to 500lbs…on the bike you can only put out as much force to the chain as equals the resistance to forward movement…You can easily put more than bodyweight in to the pedals by pulling upwards with the clipped in foot. I can lift close to 100lbs off the ground with my hip flexors and weigh 200lbs so it’s conceivable that on my most extreme pedal push I’m getting near 300lbs, but obviously never sustained. All considered I was assuming that I have probably stressed my chain at times more than the OP.
Ken, you need more time in the weight room!
400W is something around 50 lbs of pressure on the pedal. If you think you can put 300lbs of pressure on your pedal, then your instantaneous power is something well north of 2000W. That would be world class track sprinter range.
My max leg press (on a rack pushing straight up) was north of 500 lbs, when I was a high jumper and weighed around 160. Been there, done that.
400W is something around 50 lbs of pressure on the pedal. If you think you can put 300lbs of pressure on your pedal, then your instantaneous power is something well north of 2000W. That would be world class track sprinter range.
Actually at 90rpm 50lb will only get you 350W. Depends on the rpm of course. I can sustain about 1300W for 5 seconds, and max out around 1500W for 2-3 seconds. And I’m a skinny little 155lb guy with all slowtwitch fibers… FYI at 90rpm it takes 290lb of force to get 2000W…ouch! At 60rpm it would take a whopping 425lb!
Anyway back to the OP I have been using the Wippermann quick links for 6 years and I’ve broken three chains but never broken or twisted or had any issues at all with the quick link. All the failures have been far away from the link. I’d recommend the regular Wippermann steel chains for a good, reliable chain.
Do you doubt that a 200lb person can put 200lbs of force on a pedal? By your math that would put out 1600Watts. But I don’t see you taking in to account the gear ratio or the crank arm length. Besides, watts is a measurement of work not pressure so by definition it’s averaged over a time interval. Putting out 2000watts over more than 1 revolution of the pedals would require output peaks (at the center of the power stroke) of probably around 4000watts.
Its not the shimano chain that’s a problem. It just takes a little more skill and a new Pin each time you take the chain off for cleaning.
Yes shimano is coming out with a Quick link, that will help all the rookies and the people that do not deal with chain everyday and keep them out of trouble.
Yes you can mix brands with some chains without problems, but you also sometimes loose a little shifting performance mixing some brands.
Better yet clean the chain on the bike whenever possible with a park tool chain cleaner. If its not broke, don’t fix it & install a new chain every 1500 to 2500 bikes to save those chain rings and cogs from wear.
