I’ve got an FSA crank on my P2C, and every now and then the chain doesn’t engage with the chainring when shifting from the large ring to the small ring. The chain doesn’t drop or anything. It’s just that the chainring spins underneath the chain without ‘catching’ the chain. Anyone have this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it? The front derailleur seems to be adjusted fine. I don’t know what to try other than maybe try a different chain or go w/ a Shimano crank.
YES, and thank you, I thought I was nuts and when I try to describe it to shop mechanics they look at me like I’m crazy. I have no idea how to fix it, but upshifting the rear derailleur usually causes the chain to catch. It usually happens when downshifting from the big ring when going uphill and kills any momentum. I’ll email Cervelo customer service as it seems like I’m not the only one who has this problem.
This is not uncommon with the FSA C/R. It is 100% not a derailleur issue, it’s the chainrings. The FSA cranks are awesome, but I think because of patents, they keep their chainrings on there, and they are the problem. I have the FSA SLK carbon crank on my Kuota and the FSA chain rings shifted terribly (not shifting to the large chain ring unless I was in a particular cog on the cassette, causing my chain to drop at races, and so on). I recommend keeping the FSA crank (it’s a good crank) and upgrading your chain rings to Shimano Ultegra or Dura-Ace. The Chain Rings are all industry standard sizing so you can put Campy, SRAM, or SHIM on the crank. Your local bike shop should be able to sell you the Chain Rings you want. I purchased Dura-Ace chainrings, a mechanic installed them in 15 minutes, and my bike shifts like a dream. My friend who is a Cat 1 cyclist had the same issues with his FSA chainrings and he completely resolved the problem by trading up on the chain rings. Hope this helps. 
There is no need to buy the chainrings from your local shop or have them install them.
Takes about five minutes to change them yourself.
I figured it was a problem with the chainring design. I’m going to swap out the rings w/ Shimano and see what happens. Thanks a bunch for the info.
You are very welcome. I didn’t change out my own because I am 100% not mechanically inclined and am no longer allowed to work on my bike…but I’m sure you could do it yourself. I cannot offer any advice on that matter though. Best of luck!
Looks like a good excuse to try Q-rings. Thanks.
Uh-oh, is FSA going to come find me and slash my tires now??!?!?! hehehehe Good luck with the new rings. I need to log off go to bed! g’nite
The following might be wrong, but it’s what I’ve heard.
Back in the days of 8 speed gear, the chainrings had the teeth at the centre of the ring, so the gap between the big ring and the small ring suited the 8 speed chain. Worked a treat.
When the 9 speed came along, with a narrower chain, they had to bring the chainringes closer together. Narrowing the thickness of the mounting points on the cranks was discarded, possibly due to potential weakness, who knows for sure. Sooooo, they offset the teeth of the small ring, a tiny bit closer to the big ring so they lined up on the outside of the chainring, not the center like the 8 speed, so they were the right distance apart, to shift properly.
With 10 speed, they moved the big ring inwards, so the teeth lined up with the inside face and the gap between the centres of the teeth matched the 10 speed chain width and things shifted properly.
Maybe, and I don’t know for sure, FSA may or may not have got the distance between teh inner and outer teeth (not the chainrings themselves) quite right.
I have a 10 speed setup with 8 speed cranks (budgetary constraints at the moment) I have noticed the same problem you note. In my case it is from using the wrong parts, but the effect is the same. When shifting from big to small chainring, I have to make sure I shift quickly, and be in the big part of the cluster. For upshifting I need to be in the middle of the cluster and shift very slowly. Otherwise, with my wide gap on my 8speed front derailleur, the chain drops off the high side. I can’t simply adjust the stops on the derailleur or otherwise it will never climb onto the big ring. It’s not tooooo much of a pain now that I’m used to it. I just work with what I’ve got and am saving up for a 10speed front end setup.
My HED3 purchase today has emptied my savings account. Next on the list is a new lounge suite so 10 speed front setup is a while away I can’t wait for my wheels to arrive. I’m hoping they will take me all the way from the back of the pack, to the middle of the pack next time I race! Yippee!
I think I have the same issue, but wonder if the distance between rings issue will be resolved by simply trading up to DA 10 rings?
I had this problem on a Kestrel Air foil with FSA crank and shimano DA 9 speed Front derailleur. Turned out switching the 9 speed front derailleur for a new 10 speed did the trick.
The combination front derailleur,chain, chainrings can be troublesome when any one of them is “weak” FSA chinrings are not properly designed, you would not have this with Campy or Shimano chainrings.
Easy Fix - Campagnolo veloce Ultra Narrow chain will bring the whole lot together, sounds crazy but the Ultra Narrow Campy chains improve shimano 10 shifting. “Tech guys at shimano told me this”
Just ordered DA 10 rings. Expensive fix, especially for a new bike.