Maybe you can help. I am in the market for a new TT bike. I am replacing my cracked Abici with a new frameset. I have narrowed my search down to either a Cervelo or Felt. Also, do I go with the Cervelo P2c / Felt B2 or is it worth the extra money for the P3c / DA?
I have a B2 and I couldn’t be happier, there aren’t as many on the road because its a new frame this year but everyone that has one seems to love it. One thing I do warn against is the FSA krono crankset on the B2, some people have no issue with it but there are a few, myself included, that have trouble with it ramping from the small to large ring. I’ve swapped it to dura-ace.
As far as B2 to DA is basically the full dura-ace component set, slightly difference carbon layout in the frame, zipp wheels and the bayonet fork. I those are worth a few grand to you I say go for it but I decided that I’m getting a bike that is 99.5% as fast for a lot less.
As for Cervelo, I’m sure there are hundreds on this forum that can educate you.
I’m curious to hear what others have to say as well…If we disregard the price points (and the fact that the DA comes with race wheels), then it is probably all about comfort, right? Has anyone seen any windtunnel tests between these two bikes? I haven’t tried the P3C out yet, but the DA was a blast.
Since getting my Cervelo P2SL I’ve only been passed on the bike leg by 4 people, and two of them were on Cervelo P2Cs, haha
=)
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The DA is actually heavier than the B2 due to the funky fork/headtube design.
I read (I can’t remember where however) that the P2C is actually more adjustable for a wider range of people than the P3C.
If you do buy the DA or the P3C, you’d better be a uber-fast cyclist. It always makes me smile when I, riding my 20 lbs road bike, pass people on a P3C (which happened at the last race I did). People riding DA and P3C should not be getting passed.
People riding DA and P3C should not be getting passed.
I totally agree…which is another hesitation for me. I ride a 22lb. road bike and generally speaking never get passed on the bike, as it is my strongest event…would also be good for some TT’s in the area…It isn’t the machine it is the engine…of course you can’t put a ferrari engine in a tank and expect it to go as fast as it would if it were in a ferarri…
This is pretty much slowtwitch boilerplate, but test ride them both and get the one that fits and feels best. The fastest bike is the one that fits you best…
I’m afriad that is incorrect:
just weighed them to confirm:
DA 56cm 1079 grams frame alone, 493 grams for the Bayonet fork system
B2 56cm 1290 grams frame alone, 339 grams for the uncut Easton EC90 CNT fork
-SD.
People riding DA and P3C should not be getting passed.
…It isn’t the machine it is the engine…of course you can’t put a ferrari engine in a tank and expect it to go as fast as it would if it were in a ferarri…
I always get that part wrong, I got the Ferrari, (P2C) but a Yugo engine ; ) perfect for Sunday drives…
Seriously the Cervelo P2C is bargain when you consider the extras they put on it FSA Carbon Cranks, Wolf Forks and DA, even the Vision bars while not light are solid, the bike is race ready out the gate.The Shimanos aren’t worth riding as training wheels but you can probably find them a home on Ebay. Just don’t get passed on it, or have a good excuse. Man I’m cramping up…
JD
I disagree… I think that if you have the money to buy it and you are just a recreational cyclist, then yeah, go for it. You earned it if you can afford it. For example a lawyer buys a $5,000 bike but isn’t the strongest rider but loves riding… whats wrong with that? he/she certainly earned it… I do agree that its is the “engine” and not the “machine” that makes you go fast.
that aside. I have owned a P3C which I sold a year ago and I just bought a Felt DA and am building it up right now. Both are great bikes, both are very aerodynamic too. I can’t say about the quality of the Felt in the long run because I’m still building it up, but the clear coat on the P3C started to flake away on the bottom of the downtube. As for aerodynamics, they are both probably great and just make sure you have good position on the one you choose
As far as looks I would go for the Feld DA, the Bayonnet fork is sexy, and the wheel cut out is nice (I like how it doesnt bend around the wheel).
As far as problems with the bikes, the P3C was good, besides the downtube. Also I would put a strip of electric tape on the backside of the seattube, so if any rocks/pebbles comes up with the wheel it doesn’t scratch the frame, same as the felt. As for the Felt, its very easy to put cables through and all, stem can get a little messy but its doable. The rear brake… I bought a ultegra brake caliper and neither i nor my local bike shop could fit it on. I’m going to have to drive 1.5 hrs to a felt dealer to have them look at it… but I don’t mind its just a small set back…
People riding DA and P3C should not be getting passed.
I totally agree…which is another hesitation for me. I ride a 22lb. road bike and generally speaking never get passed on the bike, as it is my strongest event…would also be good for some TT’s in the area…It isn’t the machine it is the engine…of course you can’t put a ferrari engine in a tank and expect it to go as fast as it would if it were in a ferarri…
Oh, this is plain envy. Pass whomever you want and let people ride whatever bike they like and can afford.
Oh, this is plain envy. Pass whomever you want and let people ride whatever bike they like and can afford.
Oh, I don’t know if I can afford it, but buying things one cannot afford is the American way! 
thats the way it should be… ride what you like and are willing/able to pay. whether you get passed by a classic huffy while riding the new FELT DA, does it matter, really?? its not about the bike, its about the stickers…
Yes and no. I think a lot of people think they can simply buy speed. There is so secret to getting fast. Train hard and train lots. There are a lot of people out there who are quick to buy the latest and greatest thing, whether it be a bike or an aero helmet or Newtons, and low and behold four months down the road they are shopping again looking for another quick fix because they aren’t markedly faster even though they are now on a bike that is twice as expensive as their old one.
Maybe I am mean, but I get a kick out of the dude (and there’s one at every race) who is on some $5000 bike with zipp 404s who puts up a slow bike split. All that money would be better spent on a coach or on nutrition to fuel all the training necessary to become fast.
But hey, quality food and coach fees aren’t anywhere as sexy as a new $5000 bike, and definetly not as flashy.
My theory is…if you can afford it…then GO FOR IT!!
Just don’t forget to train as hard as you can so you can excel to the best of your abilities…then you have a right to ride a top end bike if you want to!!
“Train with heart…Finish what you start.” —Lisa Bentley—
And always ride your bike with one philosophy: “Ride it like you stole it!!”
1.Well, I do agree that training harder is one way - and probably the least expensive one -to increase one’s speed-duration on a bike. And there are people who fall for ridiculous marketing tricks and spend more money than they can afford on equipment. Often these are the same people who haven’t spent enough (quality) time to develop their athletic potential. But let’s not sweep just everybody like that - i.e stupid and lazy.
There are those people who work long hours at stressful and unpredictable jobs and have very limited time to develop their athletic potential. Ah, and there are 2-3 kids, whose future depends on the said people keeping on doing these jobs, so achieving the full athletic potential thing goes on the back burner for, like, 25-30 years. Yet, at the end of the day (after provisions for a matching lifestyle) there’s a bit of cash left for a new bike, so why not…
Let’s say the average US household is making ends meet with what? 100k a year? That’s optimistic in some states, but… anyway. I can think of a few zip codes in all the states I have lived in while in the US, where a resident buying a $10k bike actually spends a smaller percentage of his/her income than the average American buying a $1200 bike. If we substitute ‘net worth’ for ‘income’ then it becomes even more natural for someone who owns a $1.7 mln. two-bed apartment (among other things) to also own a $10 K bike. These people are rarely stupid and often not lazy.
- Speed can be bought. I own a $4k bike (P2C Cervelo based) - used parts when possible, ‘budget’ components - nothing that doesn’t directly contribute to going faster, On this bike I need 215W to go 25 MPH on a good day. On a standard road bike I’d need 280-300W to go the same speed (I can’t make this much for the duration I want and I hate to do what is necessary to be able to). There are very expensive road bikes that would require the same 280-300W to go 25. There are a bunch of TT/tri specific bikes that will still require 30-40 W more than the one I have for the same speed, yet they are twice the price of mine.
I do find it funny when I see people spend $2K on wheels to save 20 W (even though they are probably not aware of the exact number just have liked the ad in their favorite magazine or think these must be the fastest wheels, if their favorite team of dopers is riding them) but then put such tubs on so as to waste 30W (again a full page ad seen somewhere or $1/4 mln paid to some athlete to ride them) Or folks who spend nearly $4k on a faramest, then build it up all Dura Ace and then adopt a bizarre and uncomfortable riding position on the thing.
i would go p2c or b2. and i’d probably go p2c but that’s just me. The b2 is a super light bike which is what draws me to it but that’s not as important at most of the races we do.
Save yourself the trip to the LBS, the dura ace rear brake is the only one that works in the rear. That and whatever they use for the B2, I went through this when I built up mine. The DA was designed around shimano, specifically dura ace.
Really? Thanks a lot, that just save me a hour’s trip and i can get my bike sooner!
Save yourself the trip to the LBS, the dura ace rear brake is the only one that works in the rear. That and whatever they use for the B2, I went through this when I built up mine. The DA was designed around shimano, specifically dura ace.
It is your pick but I can point out some facts…
DA is not heavier than B2
DA is 16.7 LBS
http://www.feltracing.com/products/product.asp?catid=18,20,51&pid=21
B2 is 18.3 LBS
http://www.feltracing.com/products/product.asp?catid=18,20,51&pid=22
Same frame mold but different material and they ride different too.
You can install any rear brake to DA and B2, it is not designed like new Specialized. In fact I have Zero Gravity brakes on it working great.
Here is a picture of mine hope it helps to make your decision 
Specs:
Felt DA 56cm
Zipp 999 wheels
Vittoria Evo CS Triathlon tires
Control Tech Carbon/Titanium skewers
Look Keo Carbon pedals with titanium spindals
Aztec Teflon cables and housing
HED Aerobars, carbon s bends with 2007 hardware (130 grams lighter)
Fizik Arione Tri 2 carbon braided saddle
Bontrager speed bottle
Zero Gravity 07Ti brakes
Wippermann 10 Speed Chain
