I had my mind set on a p1 which i can get new for 1650. however on craigs list there is a 2008 soloist team with krysium es wheels for 1650. I would need to add aero bars to it though.I started looking into the soloist team (or s1) and many people preferred that to the p1 or p2sl as it is more versatile and close to as good for tri. this will also be my first tri or road bike. I plan on training for triathlons pretty much all the time and dont really plan on going on group road rides or anything so which bike do you guys think is best?
If you dont plan on doing group rides then get the p1. I have a p2sl which I absolutely love - fantastic tribike and if it fits you it can beat the majority of carbon bikes out there.
Be sure tho. If you think theres any chance of doing group rides, get the soloist. From a comfort and handling standpoint the p1 isnt a very good bike for group riding.
IMO, if you have limited cycling experience you should train with a roadie group. You bike handling skills will develop far quicker with the roadies than riding solo on a tri bike.
I had a P2K, the fore runner of the P1. The Soloist doesn’t lose that much to the P1 as a pure TT bike and is more versatile as a road/tri bike. It’s my opinion that if you only own one bike get a roadie and add clip ons for the tris, especially if you are inexperienced with cycling. The tri bike is your second bike when you become more experienced. All it’s really good for is racing or training solo. The road bike does that but can also be used for group rides or picking up a six pack at the beer store. Much more versatile. Most pros own both a road and a tri bike and train on both.
if i had both fitted properly, how much slower would you say the slt would be with a tri saddle the seat forward and aero bars. because if its a very very small amount then it would make more sense to get this bike right?
if i had both fitted properly, how much slower would you say the slt would be with a tri saddle the seat forward and aero bars. because if its a very very small amount then it would make more sense to get this bike right?
I originally used my aluminum Soloist for TT’ing until I picked up a P2K frameset. With the same equipment and the (i.e same dedicated TT/Tri bar setup) and the exact same position, the Soloist was ~0.25s/km slower (~10s over 40K) for equivalent power.
That said, I used a Look ergostem on the Soloist to get the bars in a low enough position…the P2K allowed for a regular stem. It’s the dramatic difference in head tube lengths between the 2 models which might make it difficult to get an “equivalent” position on the Soloist.
IMO, if you have limited cycling experience you should train with a roadie group. You bike handling skills will develop far quicker with the roadies than riding solo on a tri bike.
That statement needs a massive asterisk next to it. I ride with a lot of roadies and have never road raced and I’ve got the best bike handling skills out of the lot of them. I don’t trust many of them they are that hopeless, and they’re Cat 1 guys. I sit on the front or 10 metres off the back.
I think it all depends on where you come from. Some places you have to handle your bike well or you fly off a cliff, other places you just don’t have to learn anything.
so im still confused if theres only a 10 second difference in a 40k then the difference is almost negligible right? i mean if im not at the very very top of the sport then 10 seconds doesnt make much of a difference and it would make more sense to the get the soloist team as it is more versatile as it allows for road riding and pretty much the same tri capabilites as the p1.
thanks again for all the input and help guys i really appreciate it
and also if i did go wit the soloist team which aero bars do you recommend. i know usually on road bike its best to have the “mini” aero bars but im guessing since you can more the saddle forward and everything you can use normal ones right?
I think the real test is not the 10sec differnce in a 40k Time Trial, but what differnce it makes in your 10k run afterwards. The S1 10 sec could turn into minutes on the run if the 76 degree seat post doesnt help you run well. Where most people tend to run well with a 78-80 degree seat post. For me Im going with the P1 when I get home from Iraq over alot of other bikes. I think its a personal chioce. Do you want to do tris or road racing? If tri’s are your focus get a tri bike. That being said, someone might come back with Wellington rode a soloist to a IM win. Remember she didnt stay on one though.
So I looked at cervelos website and the soloist team in the forward position has an angle of 76 degrees vs the p1 which in the forward position is 78 degrees. So does that 2 degrees make that much of a difference in the run since the aerodynamics seems the same with both the soloist team with aerobats and the p1
So I looked at cervelos website and the soloist team in the forward position has an angle of 76 degrees vs the p1 which in the forward position is 78 degrees. So does that 2 degrees make that much of a difference in the run since the aerodynamics seems the same with both the soloist team with aerobats and the p1
As long as you can put your seat in the same spot relative to the BB on both bikes (i.e. the seat rails have enough adjustment range) then the only difference that 2 degrees makes is where it clamps the seat.
The seat tube angle shouldn’t determine where you put your seat…your fit coordinates should.
“what differnce it makes in your 10k run afterwards”
I definately run better off a steep angle, but for me 76 is just as good as 78-80. I can’t tell a difference 76-80 but certainly do on a 73 road position. My run times aren’t faster but my hamstrings feel fresher leaving T2.
However, my wife runs equally fast of her P2K or her road bike without initial hamstring issues. Seat angle doesn’t effect her either way. Look how fast the ITU racers do a 10 kms coming off their road bikes.
Another option is too lower the seat a bit. It has about the same practical effect on the hamstrings as pushing the seat forward.