Cervelo S series

Hey guys, I’m planning to get a Cervelo aero road bike soon, looking at the S5 and S2. I’m stuck between the two bikes and can’t decide. The S5 is the newer model and more aero than the S2, although I prefer to get low on my position and it’s more achieveable on the S2 with the lower head tube. And of course the S2 is $1k cheaper, and with that I could get a set of race wheels or something else nice or maybe even save my money.

I would also like to convert the bike into a tri set up in the future when I’m doing longer distances (>HIM) and the budget only allows for 1 bike. While I love both the P2 and P3 as well, a road bike would be better suited for me mainly because I want to go for group rides and the bike courses tend to be pretty technical. Am I right that a steeper seat angle is possible with the S5 compared to the S2, unless a forward seat post is used, while a lower front end is possible with the S2 compared to S5 unless a negative rise stem is used on the S5?

Anyone else deciding between these 2 bikes and facing the same dilemma as I am?

Also, just wondering if there is any difference between the 2011 and 2012 S2 Rival, apart from the components shown on the Cervelo website, that a buyer should be aware about? Anyone have experience with both the Rival crankset and FSA Gossamer?

(Yes I know, another Cervelo thread…)

The S2 allows both a lower and more forward fit. The bikes aren’t meaningly different in aero properties. By that I mean until you put a body on a frame the aero properties are meaningless.

If you have to compromise your position to fit on a frame its going to be slower.

Are going to put a -17 stem with no spacers on the s2?

the only way you won’t be able to get as low on the s5 as the s2, is if you would already be using a smaller frame, low rise headset cap, no spacers, and an extreme negative stem on the s2 to get in your desired position. almost nobody does that, and people who do should probably just be bending their elbows instead of putting the bars on top of the tire.

as a tri bike, the s5 doesn’t have any clean way of getting as forward with the seat as the s2, making it tricky as a combo tri/road bike if you ride in a very low aero position. on the other hand the s5 is near P4 aero, so that is a nice advantage.

The whole “I want to use my bike as a road bike and a tri bike” thing is a bit insane though. swapping aero cockpits and seats on and off every time, cables, housing, etc. pain in the ass. Budget allows for one bike? that is impossible if you are considering an s5 =)

s5 = $3,800
P2 = $2,800 + http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/condor/flight_s5d_xii.htm

Hmm I think I’m missing something here. How does one get a more forward position on the S2 compared to S5? Is there an optional seat post that allows for a more forward position on the S2, which is different from the one on the S5?

If that is the case I think things are looking better for the S2…Anyway I don’t plan to switch between road and tri setup all the time. I just want to be able to do it if I feel like it in the future, and that I won’t have to get too many different parts (other than the front cockpit) just to switch set ups.

If I were to get an S2, right now I don’t think I would be using a -17 stem. The position that Sergio Jr has seems too extreme, although if I do get an S2 I may change my mind in the future. But the plan is no spacers, that’s right.

Looking at the stack numbers of 51cm S2 and S5, I realised the difference is only 8mm at my size. I guess the difference isn’t that great, always thought it was more from what I’ve read.

Hmm I think I’m missing something here. How does one get a more forward position on the S2 compared to S5? Is there an optional seat post that allows for a more forward position on the S2, which is different from the one on the S5?

yes, the s2 seat post has a middle and a forward position

while the s5 ha a middle and a slack position

If that is the case I think things are looking better for the S2…Anyway I don’t plan to switch between road and tri setup all the time. I just want to be able to do it if I feel like it in the future, and that I won’t have to get too many different parts (other than the front cockpit) just to switch set ups.

You would have to switch the bars/stem, the seat position, maybe the seat itself, and all the cables and housings.

hell with the money spent on a second cockpit you could buy a budget road bike =)

Lots of people just put on clip ons and move the seat forward.

Hmm I could get the S2, use the extra $1k to get awesome bars like Ventus, and have both an awesome road bike and a super fast tri bike? How does that sound :open_mouth:

Hmm I could get the S2, use the extra $1k to get awesome bars like Ventus, and have both an awesome road bike and a super fast tri bike? How does that sound :open_mouth:

hey if you don’t mind swapping cockpits its a great solution. that would drive me nuts though =)

I got the S2 so that I could switch easily between a road and TT set-up. See pics below. As you can see, I have no problem getting low on the S2, although I did have to switch to a -17* stem.

Road set-up
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e15/Power13/DSCN0244.jpg

TT Set-up
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e15/Power13/IMG_0055.jpg

TT Position
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e15/Power13/IMG_0057.jpg

Hmm I could get the S2, use the extra $1k to get awesome bars like Ventus, and have both an awesome road bike and a super fast tri bike? How does that sound :open_mouth:

Sounds like you should get a P2 (better tri bike than the s2) and use the extra money for a whole nuther bike.

Do you remove the entire housing when you make the change? How easy is it to fish through the frame?

To the OP if its not easy check out the Felt aero bikes. The housing is very easy to push through.

you don’t put housing through the frame in a cervelo. just the cable. the ease of getting the cable to exit the frame varies a bit by model and year. The later model years it usually comes right out, no harder than an external cable bike.

that is true, on the non-DA models from 2011 forward. Even the 2010 DA was not easy on the rear der.

This is due to Di2 routing ability. Wish there had been a non-di2 version, alas, not so

Hmm I could get the S2, use the extra $1k to get awesome bars like Ventus, and have both an awesome road bike and a super fast tri bike? How does that sound :open_mouth:

Or you could pick up one each of the diminishing supply of S1/P1 and have an awesome road bike and a super fast tri bike.

as a tri bike, the s5 doesn’t have any clean way of getting as forward with the seat as the s2, making it tricky as a combo tri/road bike if you ride in a very low aero position.

Getting the seat far enough forward shouldn’t be an issue IF you use a “proper” seat (read: Adamo) for the TT/Tri position :wink:

Tom,

What is the correlation(more or less) with the adamo vs a standard seat tipping it? How far back does the nose go relative to the other?

I tried a Cobb max last week, and the only way I could get it to feel any better rather than worse was to be so far off the front that all my weight was on my arms. That wasn’t working and the brief trial period I used made the stock saddle seem blissful again.

Tom,

What is the correlation(more or less) with the adamo vs a standard seat tipping it? How far back does the nose go relative to the other?

I tried a Cobb max last week, and the only way I could get it to feel any better rather than worse was to be so far off the front that all my weight was on my arms. That wasn’t working and the brief trial period I used made the stock saddle seem blissful again.

~2.5" of the “nose” is missing on an Adamo.

Do you remove the entire housing when you make the change? How easy is it to fish through the frame?

To the OP if its not easy check out the Felt aero bikes. The housing is very easy to push through.

No, if you look above where the cables enter the TT, you’ll see I have installed two cables adjusters. They basically act as “splitters” for me. I remove the HB / shifters / brake levers and ENTIRE shift / brake cables when switching. The housing from the splitter to the internal cable stop remains in place. This aids significantly when re-installing the new HB structure. My road setup has matching housing / cables to align with the cable housing left in the frame.

As jack indicated, later models are significantly easier to switch over since the top tube essentially acts as a cable stop as well. Mine has internal cable stops (see plugs on DT) which are kind of a pain in the arse.

Takes me about 15-20 min to swap everything over, moving at a pretty leisurely pace.

What size frame are you looking for? I have just upgraded to a P4
& Soon to be S5. I have a P3 and S2 54 I could sell complete or frame sets. pM me. Thanks