So I’m building up my shiny new, no wait my stealth matt black new P3sl and I’m a little confuse about the front derailer cable routing. Specifically, it pops out of an internal cable routing stop sbout 4 inches below the front derailer (it’s a bottom pull) and goes up to the derailer cable clamp. For other cervelo owners out there, do you put a short piece of cable here to prevent the cable from rubbing on the frame and or getting frayed?? I’d think the cable would move around. Any advice would be appreciated. Will stop by my lbs where it’s from later. I like building my own bike so I just took it home in the box:)
Also there are these two little aluminum inserts that look like some sort of cable stop. Bare cylindrical aluminum with a cable whole, they came in the same bag as the pop in cable stop for the rear brake cable. I should post a pic, but if you know what they are I’d love to find out as well. Currently I can’t figure out what they are needed for.
I just a piece of tape that has real slippery surface on the BB shell where the der. cable rubs. I forget exactly what type of tape it was – something like “carpet tape”. Look at your local hardware store. It’s real solid and slippery and has lasted for months now.
Here’s what I did with the similar situation on my older model Cervelo One: I took a spare length of cable housing maybe 6 or 8 inches long and carefully cut/pulled the inner sheath out (the sheath is about the thickness of a spaghetti noodle). Then I threaded this sheath onto the front derailer cable before I clamped the cable into the front derailer. I positioned the sheath to wrap around the bottom bracket where the cable might otherwise be able to wear away at the paint in that area. The sheath extends a few inches up from the bottom bracket towards the derailer and a few inches into the downtube.
I can’t remember where I read to do this - might very well have been in a post on this forum though…
In our shop we use cable liner to prevent any rubbing around the bottom bracket for the front derailleur. Essentially, it’s a plastic sleeve for the cable, similar to what one of the other posters used. Your LBS should have some so you don’t have to cut dissect normal cable housing.
The metal cylinders you refer to are for the ends of the cable housing. They keep things looking nice so you don’t have to look at the cut end and prevent the end of the cable from pinching the cable at the stop since some cable stops are conical shaped.
Hey Darrel, Thanks for the help. I’m running Nokon cables so I’ll just use thier liner for the BB area. On the aluminum cable end caps, are they for some special cable in particular or just a replacement for the standard steel caps? I figured they were caps but had no idea where I’d need them. First guess was maybe the brakes but no go there. I’ve built quite a few bikes and haven’t used any caps like these before.
The caps are for normal cable housing, specifically the brakes. On the P3 and other Cervelos they should go on where the housing/cable enters and exits the top tube. If you’re using Nokon you don’t need them.
For the Nokons one end will be fine and for the other end you use one of the small round Nokon bits in combination with one of the terminal pieces. The terminal pieces are slightly longer than other onesand have one side of them is concave. Look closely at them and you should be able to figure out what I’m talking about.
I posted some info to help someone install Nokon cables a few weeks ago so do a search if you need some tips or feel free to ask as they are a little tricky the first time. The liner cable for the derailleurs are different lengths so separate them before you start and you’ll save some time.
Hey Darrell, Thanks for the help again. I wasn’t talking about the cable end caps though, Cervelo emailed me back and they were step down adapters for the Dia Compe brakes. If I didn’t know what the cable end caps were it would be pretty interesting to see what other weird things might happen as I “built” my own bike up;) The worlds first negative rake fork… Anyways, problem solved and btw I love the Nokons as well. I don’t run them fully enclosed though and just cut the liners to fit under the links. Used to run them fully enclosed and on some bikes the extra drag would prevent the rear derailer from operating properly and dropping into the smallest cog. Strange, but taking out most of the liner fixed the problem perfectly.
I looked on my P3 and my cable does not rub anywhere. Maybe they made a small change in the newer models. You are free to look mine over Saturday morning in Kaneohe if you want or need to.
Hmm, maybe its’ my size 53 frame or something. It’s not that it’s rubbing the frame it’s just that it’s in tension against the inner edge of the cable stop hole. Sounds like the teflon tubing will work though. I need the bike to be working by Sat as my other bike sacrificed it’s HED bars for the new bike. See you at Kbay
I remember reading of someone drilling out the hole to the next size. That stopped any rub (but lets in more dirt and water). Mine is a 54cm with 650’s.
No sign up today at I T & B. Where did those Marines go to? :~)
hmm, well I’ll see where I get with the bike tonight. I noticed there wasn’t anyone at IT&B. I was there to order a Dura-ace crankset for the new bike. I built some custom travel boxes to stop paying airline fees and the D-ace crankset is just so much easier to remove.
I’m signing up for the race on race morning. Already talked to the race people about it and they said no problem so if you are hoping to still sign up you have till then.