First, a preface: I ride a Cervelo Soloist, and I love it. Fits me wonderfully, is light, stiff, still comfortable. Road it all winter in the road configuration, have now flipped the seatpost around and added aerobars, and damn if the hype isn’t true: it feels like a tri-bike, not a shaky-handling road bike.
But what’s up with the brake calipers? On my first ride I noted a signficant decrease in stopping power, relative to my previous, all-Ultegra-equipped road bike. The first upgrade I made was to put on some Ultegra brake calipers, and it made all the difference. And I don’t think it’s just me: right now, a pair of Cervelo brake calipers, taken off somebody’s bike, is up for auction on eBay – one of at least half a dozen such auctions I’ve noticed in the past few months. (My old calipers would be auctioned off, too, 'cept something feels ethically weird about selling something that I didn’t feel could stop me safely…)
The calipers don’t seem on par with the rest of the Ultegra kit, nor with the quality of the rest of the bike. Why doesn’t Cervelo just spec it with full Ultegra, calipers included? Is there that much savings to be had in just the calipers?
Hmmm, interesting- but I have to politely differ with you about ultegra versus the Cervelo brake calipers.
We sell a lot of bikes with Ultegra and the Cervelo caliper which is also used on other bike brands. I don;t know for a fact, but my guess is this is a Tektro brand brake pantographed with the Cervelo logo.
We’ve had excellent luck with these, every bit as good as Ultegra. and in some cases a bit better.
One thing we have noticed is you are best served to have a very good quality, compressionless/compression resistant brake cable housing and be certain the housings are cut to the correct length. Many times “soft” or bad brake actuation is the result of a cable housing being too long and moving and flexing during braking giving the brakes a bit of a “mushy” feeling. In general, the housings are too long and/or too soft.
Provided the cables and housings are set up correctly and the routing is clean and snag-free you should get pretty darn good performance from these.
They are rebranded tektro calipers (i think, for all i know they are some other generic caliper that tektro rebrands) and can be had pretty cheap through quality.
I use the tektro equivalent on my road bike without a hitch (i did wear out that stupid plastic bushing they use, but they still work fine)
on the tribike, with a non spring assisted breaklever (Diacomp 188) they are terrible.
In addition to what Tom D said, brake pads are also really important. I’m not sure what the pad quality with Tektro’s is, but my personal experience with Kool Stop black pads is that they are complete crap in wet weather, and not bad in the dry. If you do use the Tektro’s again, try swapping the pads out for Shimano, or I’ve also heard good things about Aztec.
One thing we have noticed is you are best served to have a very good quality, compressionless/compression resistant brake cable housing and be certain the housings are cut to the correct length. Many times “soft” or bad brake actuation is the result of a cable housing being too long and moving and flexing during braking giving the brakes a bit of a “mushy” feeling. In general, the housings are too long and/or too soft.
Provided the cables and housings are set up correctly and the routing is clean and snag-free you should get pretty darn good performance from these.
Thanks for the insight, Tom (and jasonk, thanks for the tip about the pads).
I had assumed that a new bike would come from the shop with things like brake housings set up correctly, but that soft, mushy feeling you describe is exactly what I experienced, so maybe you’re right. And your explanation squares better with what I know about Cervelo – it would be weird for them to make bikes of such high quality, but skimp in that one (very important) area.
While I am a self-confessed Cervelo fan I will note that Guru, another bike I love and own, is an easy sell to some customers since their parts kits contain Shimano brake calipers and, as you have pointed out, there are customers who prefer them.
For those who feel Shimano parts spec throughout is a key feature, check out Guru.
I’ve got a P2k, and while I don’t care about the relative stopping power of the current brakes vs. ultegra I am having a problem with rust. I live south of Houston TX, so everything rusts (including stainless steel) due to the high humidity and high salt content of the air. The Ultegra der. parts don’t seem to have much of a problem but all the bolts and the brakes are rusting. If I change to Ultegra brakes does anyone know if they resist rusting better?
I am in the process of replacing my shift and brake cables, as well as housing. You mention: “have a very good quality, compressionless/compression resistant brake cable housing,” since I am also still using the Cervelo Caliper.
Well, despite the proliferation of “alternative” cable systems from aftermarket manufacturers I still think Shimano cables and housing- SLR and SIS- is still the very best. Properly prepared and cut, with the ends finished meticulously and to the perfect length these cables and housings deliver superior performance at a reasonable price.
Certainly, Nokian and Gore offer some interesting systems which we do sell. However, after spending extra time installing them and then feeling the result throught the brake lever and the shifter I was dramatically underwhelmed.
So, I am more impressed with Shimano OEM cables and housing depsite their somewhat unglamorous and less exotic image.
I don’t think the cervelo brakes can rust as they are made out of aluminum. Aluminum can corrode, but not rust. The rear spring might rust though, as might the bolts. I don’t think shimano’s spring or bolts is any less prone to rust.
You are right, I should have been more specific, it is the spring and all of the bolts, washers, basically anything silver in color. This includes the bolt and washer that holds the cable on the rear der., but not the der. itself.