I just installed a wheelbuilder wheel cover so I had to take off and put back on my cassette. I’ve only done this one other time in my life so I am not very experienced but I noticed some shifting problems on my ride today. I have a race on sunday so I want to get this knocked out fast. Do you think I didn’t tighten the nut on the cassette enough? I felt like I put some good torque into it, but I guess I have no real experience so I don’t know how tight is enough. I spent too much money on this dura ace groupo for it to shift poorly haha!
Which cassette are you using?
What is the rear wheel?
It is a dura ace 10 speed and the wheel is a roval roubaix 322x
There is no rub of the disc wheel on anything. Also shifting is good in the middle two gears, but thats it. I know it is a given that shifting won’t be great, but I should have decent shifting is more than the middle two, I feel like I’m riding a tiagra group now haha. I feel like I must have either gone too tight or not enough.
Do you typically have to crank it pretty tight? Any good videos? Maybe I would be able to get a feel just by watching. I checked youtube and the couple videos I tried said 40 N but had bad angles so I had no idea what that kind of torque would look or feel like.
I make mine fairly tight but I don’t whale on it. It doesn’t take much effort for me to remove the lockring later.
Did you check to make sure the wheel is correctly aligned in the frame? The cassette cogs should be parallel to the chainrings.
It is a dura ace 10 speed and the wheel is a roval roubaix 322x
Did you put the spacer on the freehub body before you put the cassette on?
Yup, I took everything straight off and put it straight back on
.
Are you sure?
Yup, positive, the reason I paid extra close attention was the first time I changed cassette’s was when I got a set of race wheels with a cassette, the cassette wasn’t installed and I had a similar problem, I found out there was no spacer and the guy just didn’t include it for some reason.
Its pretty hard to put a cassette on wrong. Are you sure that the cover isn’t caught between the ridge on the free hub and the cassette? Other than that are you sure that spacers are in the correct places?
The lock ring doesn’t have to be very tight at all so I doubt you undertightened it. Its possible that you knocked the cable adjustment out of wack taking off or putting on the wheel or the wheel is in crooked (or was in crooked before)>
Styrrell
Is is possible to put one of the cassette rings on backwards???
*Is is possible to put one of the cassette rings on backwards??? *
no. The splines don’t allow it. But you can put them on out of order. Not that I’ve…done…that. Or anything.
I recently changed wheels and at first I handt put the spacer in (the extra little spacer that goes on before the cassette), the shifting was perfect. Now I put the spacer on and its crap. Could it be that some wheels dont require the spacer and some do? Its quite an old HED disk I am now on (as my other wheel broke).
I think tightening torque is 40 NM. Do you have a torque wrench?
*Is is possible to put one of the cassette rings on backwards??? *
no. The splines don’t allow it. But you can put them on out of order. Not that I’ve…done…that. Or anything.
Yeah - uh, me neither. Nor have I ever put 2 rings together w/o the spacer thingie in between. Nope, nosiree Bob!
If you don’t have a SRAM cassette, then you should have the thin spacer ring that goes on before the first 3 largest cogs.
That is generally the #1, do not pass GO, problem w/ a mis-installed cassette.
Not that I have ever done that, of course.
Oh, one more possibility - does your bike have horizontal dropouts?? With adjustment screws?
If so, it’s possible that either the adjustment screws moved a little while you were removing &/or installing the wheel,
- OR -
if you put the wheel in you can sometimes get it so the outer part of the axle is actually inboard of the adjustment screw, so it f’s up the alignment of the wheel (and cassette, naturally) in the frame.
You should check to see that the rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts, and that the QR is tightened well anyway. No harm in it regardless.
And one last one - sometimes the shift cables can get moved so they are not fully seated in the cable stops.
Again - not that I would personally know about any of these sort of noob moves. I heard about them from a friend… 
They could go on backwards if you really jammed them on there-particularly the smaller ones. Also make sure the spacers (easy to do with SRAM cassettes) are on the right way around. I’d check the park tools website for some pictures and pretty detailed instructions.
PS: This is just friendly advice from my experience–I don’t want to debate with anybody. I teach grade 7 and 8 students and get enough crap all day from that.