In all seriousness though, for some high CRR might be a feature for how they train.
That webpage suggests it adds comfort. I’m pretty darn sure that’s nonsense. Only if their guard goes in parallel with a larger tyre.
Any insert that I have seen in MTB tyres has certainly added comfort.
The foam damps and quietens the bumps significantly.
The bike is eerily smoother at speed through rough stuff.
Ah, for MTB that may be true. I was thinking of road tyres where damping is not really the main problem IMO, but rather lack of tyre distortion. Therefore an insert which reduced the air volume in favour of a less compressible medium would, I suspect, reduce comfort.
Could see this for downhill mtb. You take a ride or chair lift up anyway, so it wouldn’t matter. That’s also one of the prime pics in the linked site is downhill mtb.
Then again, who would buy this other than tubeless?
Go tubeless and if you hit something THAT bad, mtb and larger tires are much easier to deal with in the wild than tight road race tires.
Rip open a tubeless in the woods, just add a dollar bill or wall patch and insert tube…ride out.
Just out of curiosity has anyone actually measured the Crr of these? Not that I have any intention of subjecting myself to them, but I am curious just HOW high the Crr really is especially compared to something like a Gatorskin
In addition to high CRR,
How hard would these be to mount on a road bike rim?
I’ve mounted Cush Core on an mtb rim and it was a major PITA. I’d imagine the spectrum would be “a bit more difficult than a normal tube/tire install†to “major PITAâ€
Ah, for MTB that may be true. I was thinking of road tyres where damping is not really the main problem IMO, but rather lack of tyre distortion. Therefore an insert which reduced the air volume in favour of a less compressible medium would, I suspect, reduce comfort.
Lack of distortion is just too high pressure and these would allow lower pressure by reducing pinch flats.
Inserts do nothing for sidewall cuts, so don’t think you can magically run supple sidewalls in trash conditions.
So I don’t see any gain for a road bike.
GP4000’s go without damage apart from the rock cut to the sidewall that would kill any tyre, so what is there to be gained?
Inserts do nothing for sidewall cuts, so don’t think you can magically run supple sidewalls in trash conditions.
Not when set up tubeless, but these have a tube inside the insert. There’s a dramatic increase in sidewall cut survivability with these. Whether the other compromises are worth that or not are up to the individual rider to determine.
People, these are for MTB only. Tannus sells solid tires for road bikes with much less CRR. Me and my wife have them on our road bikes. At 6000 miles, getting screws, thorns, glass, nails in them still riding. Would have had to do 15 flat changes by now (no exaggeration)
People, these are for MTB only.
They do offer these for road bike size tires (700x28-34)
Tannus sells solid tires for road bikes with much less CRR.
Do you have actual .crr data for either?
Tannus sells solid tires for road bikes with much less CRR.
Do you have actual .crr data for either?
2 years ago I tested a set of of their 700x23 tires. On the slight uphill grade on the road out in front of our warehouse, a set of 700x23 GP4Ks at 95psi required 215w to go 30kph, the Tannus required 288w (and rode like 700x20s inflated to 150psi)…
People, these are for MTB only.
They do offer these for road bike size tires (700x28-34)
Tannus sells solid tires for road bikes with much less CRR.
Do you have actual .crr data for either?
Tannus stated up to 2% difference on their road tire compared to regular air. The insert must be new for road bikes then. But why? The solid is better solution. 700x25 slicks to me the best as I tested 23-28
Page 18… not a 60w difference like other guy said
Page 18… not a 60w difference like other guy said
http://www.triclubsandiego.org/...inews-november-2018/
30 minute to change a tire? What the hell is that guy on?
And what the hell are we supposed to do with that info? Nothing is controlled here. This test has no validity.
Page 18… not a 60w difference like other guy said
http://www.triclubsandiego.org/...inews-november-2018/
Comparing to Ritchey Tom Slicks with thorn proof tubes? Those tubes alone evened things out quite a bit, the tires I have no idea about. What would be the result of comparing to GP4Ks with ultra-light tubes, like I did? Even so, there was one lap with each setup that he did in 14:03, the Tannus tires required 19w more. So we’re at about a 10% difference, not the claimed 2%. My comment after our testing was their comparison must have been against Specialized Armadillos.
As one can see from the performance comparison results the Tannus tires did not hold Dean back at all; he was even faster compared to his trusted tire/tube combination
But how fast would he have been if he had held the same average power with the Ritcheys?
As one can see from the performance comparison results the Tannus tires did not hold Dean back at all; he was even faster compared to his trusted tire/tube combination
But how fast would he have been if he had held the same average power with the Ritcheys?
Right. He was faster because he rode harder. This shows nothing about the tires. We need a test done at the exact same power, in the same weather conditions. And then we need a test done with a “control” tire that most of us use like a GP4k, again at the same power and weather conditions.
Editing to add: we also have no idea what pressure he inflated the pneumatic tire to, which can affect speed a ton
People, these are for MTB only. Tannus sells solid tires for road bikes with much less CRR. Me and my wife have them on our road bikes. At 6000 miles, getting screws, thorns, glass, nails in them still riding. Would have had to do 15 flat changes by now (no exaggeration)
Can you elaborate with more detail on the pros and cons you find with the Tannus wheels?
I am on the verge of pulling the trigger on their preinstalled wheelset for like $280ish - I’m in need of a new wheelset for training and I train almost entirely on my own when I’m outdoors so I don’t need every last iota of speed to hang with a fast group - I suspect I can tolerate a little more rolling resistance, as I HATE flats. (I am very capable at changing a flat, but I still hate them, as most do.)
I guess specifically -
- Would you recommend them to everyone for training?
- Any annoyances? (Speed, ride quality being the main ones)
- Worried about the inability to remove them?
Thx
Seems like a product that would have suited the market 10 or 20 years ago.
Pretty much everyone rides downhill and Enduro wirh tubeless these days in DH and Enduro.
Most do on regular trail riding too.
Rim strips can be worth it in the bed of the rim to protect the rim for aggressive riders, esp. In expense carbon rims.
But for puncture protection? 10 years too late.