I did a race last weekend and found it fun. The only downside is that I rode a borrowed bike that didn’t fit. I have limited funds for the summer, but I might beable to come up with $1000. What can I get for that and what should I look for? I want to race a bit, but mainly I am a recreational rider who wants to mix it up with my training a bit. Thoughts?
chris
I’ve only owned one new mountain bike in my life and it was $500.00 total new, a Gary Fisher Marlin. Cheap, entry level components but hella stiff and fast and light for the frame and I’d definately buy another one. You might want to check them out if you are wanting new as in the mountain bike world moreso than in the world of the roadie, a bike is just a bike but Gary Fisher is to the mountain bike world what Dan Empfield is to the triathlon, OG and for the most (brown nose) spot on.
check 'em out, you won’t be sorry. http://fisherbikes.com/
and go hardtail no matter what brand you get, less chain pop off and less mechanicals to deal with not to mention much quicker transfer of power and much more stability (in general if you are twisting through switchbacks) vs what a dual suspension is commonly referred as, squishy bikes.
good luck!
Here’s a thought or two from a long-time mountain biker, roadie, TTer, runner, rock climber, etc…
Mountain biking was/is my first great love of cycling. However, be cautious if you are also training for other athletic endeavors…accidents/injuries happen. As your proficiency on the mtb increases, so too does your adrenaline which will eventually lead to spills, crashes, etc. Of course, this by itself is the natural learning process. But, if training for other events, a rib, shoulder, or leg injury can put a real damper on things. Just be aware that you will get banged-up eventually, especially the better you get and your mtb skills develop. I know, I’ve been there…it’s addicting.
Have fun!
I’d look around for used bikes and closeouts. If you want new, Gary Fisher might do. $1000 won’t get you the best bike but I’d shoot for the best components and fork you can afford with that money. I bought a MTB bike at Christmas and ended up with a Gary Fisher Paragon for around $1700. I bought the 2009 model which was $500 off. However, for $1700 I have absolutely no desire to upgrade anything on the bike. You might want to consider that. Too many times in my life I have gone cheaper but ended up spending more in the long run because I wasn’t happy with what I bought in the first place. Now I just save a little longer if possible.
Hope that helps.
So does the three crashes I had during the race last weekend count? Believe me I know where you are coming from and have thought about it. Still, if I am not racing I know I could go out and be much more cautious and still have it be fun. It would be a nice change from the trainer with my TT.
Yep, all crashes count. 
Just know that, like most athletes, you’ll eventually want to push yourself.
What about a GF Cobia? Not sure what the difference is between the Paragon and the Cobia?
chris
for the record, Gary Fisher is now owned by Trek and have been for some years now so you have the trek warranty backing you up but from what I understand they are still spec’d to GF and built by them, not trek but don’t quote me on that.
where do you see the cobia? i see the paragon in the 29’er category a cobia nowhere.
the main difference is gonna be components btw, not frame and their 6061 aluminum is light and tuff. i used to dirt jump, freeride (staircases, gaps and the likes), and put mountain road tires aka slicks and rode the road with my fisher and never once was i scared of any frame malfunction. this is nice for a 26" which is my preference, not a 29’er.
found it. looks as if they upgraded bikes to hydraulic disk brakes, not too shabby.
get a single speed 29er rigid.
Everyone’s praising GF, and there’s nothing wrong with it, but that’s just one of like 5 million mt bike companies out there.
For the record, G2 geometry is very fitting for beginner riders because it gives you a longer wheelbase and therefore a more stable platform to work off of.
But, like I said, you have lots and lots of mt bike companies to choose from–not just Gary Fisher. If I had about $1,000 to spend right now, I’d probably be looking at the lowest-end Scott Scale hardtail or even a Cannondale F5 or something.
A 26" hardtail is going to get you the most bike for your money at that price point.
But everyone tells me 29 is the only way to go.
chris
Is buying used an option for you? I have found that the resale value of MTBs aren’t as good as road bikes. You can get some exceptional deals on craigslist that will get you the most out of your $.
I have been mtn biking for 20 years and am really confused by what some people have said here. If you are limited on cash check out www.bikesdirect.com for some good deals. I believe the frames of the Motobecanes are the same as Fuji and a few others that source from Asia. The component specs are great. I have never bought a bike from them, but if you are just getting into the sport the prices are hard to beat. You will get more for your money on a hardtail, but I will say that full suspension is great. I currently ride a Santa Cruz Superlight and would have to disagree with Roadhouse. I also think the better you get on a mtn bike the LESS you crash. You learn how to handle the bike and not panic. With time comes skill and that skill will help you save yourself in situations you could not at the beginning.
I have been mtn biking for 20 years and am really confused by what some people have said here. If you are limited on cash check out www.bikesdirect.com for some good deals. I believe the frames of the Motobecanes are the same as Fuji and a few others that source from Asia. The component specs are great. I have never bought a bike from them, but if you are just getting into the sport the prices are hard to beat. You will get more for your money on a hardtail, but I will say that full suspension is great. I currently ride a Santa Cruz Superlight and would have to disagree with Roadhouse. I also think the better you get on a mtn bike the LESS you crash. You learn how to handle the bike and not panic. With time comes skill and that skill will help you save yourself in situations you could not at the beginning.
he said in the $1000 range, how much do full suspensions cost with the BRAIN lockout and fox shocks cause if theyr’e around $1000 I’ll let you buy me one. and IMO, if you are not traveling through the grand canyon but mainly short and relatively smooth trail riding/racing (3-25 miles) then a hardtail is all you need. If you are going ultra rooty courses and long distance then sure, check squishies out.
and motobecane is a good alternative, I forgot all about them. much higher level components and crap throwaway frame.
I should have added that as a disclaimer. I would take a $1000 hardtail over a $1000 full suspension any day…Now if you have $2,500+ to spend I would choose full suspension over a hardtail.
I say it all the time here.
Check out Jamis bikes, for the $$$ spent, you get a lot more bike than spending the same amount on a trek or a spez.
that being said My jamis (reynolds 853 hardtail frame) is tricked out witha fox and mavic c29ssmax wheels and sram xx. Ill be ripping it at endurance races and xc stuff all summer.
Hardtail 26" bikes are going the way of the dodo. Check out the report VeloNews did on it last year.
I would say a 29" hard tail is the way to go. Better power transfer, but you still get a better ride than a 26" wheel.
I agree that you can get some smoking deal used, esp. if you live a place where cycling isn’t that popular, people will sell cheaper. Just need to be extra careful when buying mountain bike stuff, as it has probably been used much harder than road bikes and components.
there was a pro mountain biker who did two individual 24 hour solos about two years ago, one with 26 and one with 29 fo the same company/brand. the 29 lost by feel and control and speed. from memory but i think that’s right.