hi folks, just had a bad crash on Monday when an impatient driver turned right in front me and I crashed into his passenger door; took a bad tumble; most body parts okay except L shoulder; initially thought I was out of the race with a fracture or torn rotor cuff; but forunately it looks like an AC separation (the joint at the end of clavicle bone), and i may be able to swim in a couple of weeks, knock on wood…
now my bike… need some help
items “easily” replaced – handle bar bent, saddle titanium rails bent, computer speed/cadence sensor torn;
needs advice on my rear wheel; I happen to be riding my rear hed 3 because I was trying a new gear ratio; and it has come out of true; not sure how to quantify it but I imagine it’s around 3-5mm; is this sufficient to affect performance? like everyone else, I’d prefer equipment to be perfect if I can help it, but I don’t have the $600+ to go buy a new one this week
solution for the race:
– does anyone in Madison area have a good clincher rear 650 Hed3 that I can borrow for the race? Insideoutsports rents a pair of zipp 404 at event for $150; I don’t want to spend that much, especially if I need a new wheel
– other advice?
solution for longer term
– has anyone else dealt with out of true hed3s? can I contact HED and ask them to fix it? do they have a program where they offer discount on a new wheel if I return an old one?
My understanding of carbon fiber is that if it is bent it is cracked. You can’t put a HED3 out of true without structurally damaging it. I would not ride the wheel. It can come out of true from the factory, but that is it.
As for the shoulder, you will be fine. Try to find yourself a short sleeve wetsuit as the additional mobility will be an advantage. I separated my shoulder in a bike crash before Muskoka 2003 and raced 4 weeks later (slow swim times), but within 9 weeks at LP, I was back to my usual 62-63 min range. Depending on the fall, may be OK to get through, but don’t count on a fast time
I don’t think it is possible for a HED3 to go out of true, and they certainly cannot be trued in the traditional sense. It looks like you have another item for the insurance claim/lawsuit.
If you carefully examine the structure of the wheel and don’t see any cracks or any other evidence of damage to the carbon fiber, what you have is a wheel that has become un-centered. H3 wheels are not “trued” in that the carbon structure cannot be modified. They are, instead, centered with shims.
3-5mm doesn’t seem like much, and contrary to what the other posers have said I’d bet your H3 is fine. I would contact HED and discuss this with them.
Check to make sure the back end of your bike is in true (i.e. a new/reliable wheel should run true). Certainly a bend in a stay could make the wheel seem out of true. You may have already done this and/or tested the H3 on a stand, but if not, just double check the back of your bike.
And yes, if the wheel is 3-5mm out of true, it is toast. Send it back to HED. They have a great replacement policy. Hed also occassionally sells H3 that’s don’t run true at a discount. I’d check with them when you send the wheel back to make sure that you didn’t get sold one of these wheels by someone claiming it was “as new.” HED only sells them direct, but someone could buy the pair and then sell them as new to an unsuspecting customer.
No offense, but how would it become decentered due to a crash? The bearings rest on a rigid structural surface that aint movin without damage. granted with shims you could move the structure over, but that isn’t happening in a crash.
No offense, but how would it become decentered due to a crash? The bearings rest on a rigid structural surface that aint movin without damage. granted with shims you could move the structure over, but that isn’t happening in a crash.
Okay, I’ll bite how can a crash decenter the rim/wheel? What exactly is moving or being displaced to allow this to happen without actually bending metal. I’ve taken an H# apart to replace the cartridges and don 't see it happening.
I had an H3 go “crack” the first mile of riding it with little motivation (i.e. no pot hole nor anything that I could tell was a bump in the road which loaded the wheel up tremendously). Apparently it was the shim breaking, which then sent the wheel out of true/tolerance. I assume that it can happen on another type of bike trauma.
If you have taken this rear hub apart and you didn’t put it back together EXACTLY the same (say shims) the wheel WILL be out of true. The shims are what trues the wheel. If you’ve rotated the shim, even a tiny amount, the wheel is now out of true. This is one of the reasons people look at the cassette on a HED3 as it turns and you see it wobbling as though its broken or loose. The cassette will move slightly to keep the rim in true.
Hello, I absolutely agree with your comments. What I was addressing is the poster who claims that a HED 3 can become uncentered without structural damage. After taking apart a H3 I dont see it happening.
Hello, I absolutely agree with your comments. What I was addressing is the poster who claims that a HED 3 can become uncentered without structural damage. After taking apart a H3 I dont see it happening.
Styrrell
Thank goodness you’re not a wheel builder
Um. Maybe this isn’t the most obvious answer, but I would get a lawyer, call the insurer of the idiot motorist and let him know that you are a high level training athlete, who has a national caliber event in a few weeks and you need to have your pro level equipment replaced soon enough before the race that you can test it, break it in, whatever. Insurance should take care of it fast enough, or you might as well sue for having them ruin your biggest race of the year. Not to mention bodily injury, etc.
I’m not letigious for the sake of letigiousness. But screw with my bike or my “A” race, and I would have a pack of hungry lawyers stripping that driver of whatever it took to get me back to my race. If that means a team of 5 blonde swedish massuers working the shoulder back to good form, and a brand new HED-3, so be it. The driver should be lucky he isn’t going to jail for manslaughter.
I am a wheel builder, although never professionally. Most of the wheels have been personal use or for freind, and are typically “stupid light”. Low spoke counts, light rims, ti spokes. Never had a complaint, no breaks, most wheels in use for years of hard use. Now that aside now two people are claiming that a H3 can be harmlessly moved lateraly (sp) in a crash but don’t care to elaborate how.
Okay I’ll buy that, but still consider a broken shim as structural damage that must be fixed before i would ride the wheel. The previous poster seems to be implying that the wheel can somehow be moved over a bit without damage.
I am a wheel builder, although never professionally. Most of the wheels have been personal use or for freind, and are typically “stupid light”. Low spoke counts, light rims, ti spokes. Never had a complaint, no breaks, most wheels in use for years of hard use. Now that aside now two people are claiming that a H3 can be harmlessly moved lateraly (sp) in a crash but don’t care to elaborate how.
