Bike component upgrade - what do I need to look out for?

Triathlon Forum
1

Does it make sense to just upgrade an older bike (2003 QR Kilo with 105) with better components, for instance a new rear der and new cranks?
I was thinking about getting an Ultegra rear der and maybe some different cranks (maybe used ones). The bikes has Shimano 105 ders and truvativ cranks, the same components it came with. Is there something I need to be careful about wrt bottom brackets? ISIS, Octalink etc.

What would be the most affordable way to “upgrade” or tune my bike a little. I did 3 IMs and a half on it, I think it could use some tlc. I can’t afford a new bike so I thought I try and upgrade mine a bit. Where would I start? What’s the best way to do this?

Any tips are greatly appreciated. Many thanks!

2

Upgrading cranks is all about “bling” and not about performance. As long as they run smoothly, leave them alone. Rear derailleur is a good place. New cables, derailleur pulleys (and if you want easy shifting, try an Avid Rollamajig), and brake pads will go a l ong way to giving the bike that “new” feel.

I wouldn’t try to put a lot of money into a Kilo.

Just my thoughts.

3

I have a 2003 trek that has basically the same spec, 105 RD, tiagra FD, bontrager crank, ect. I’ve recently upgraded the aerobars, basebar, brakes, and stem. I am much lower, faster, and happier. If you are not in the best position this may be a nice option.

4

As you know, your bike is capable of quite a bit (IMs/etc). I’d wash it, lube it, and enjoy it. I’m sure that reading this are 50 fat guys with nicer bikes than you that couldn’t do a 1/2, much less a full. What I’d do is test ride some new bikes, see what parts work better than yours, and start there to see if anything needs replacing.

There’s no reason that 105 can’t work great if not clapped out and well adjusted. If you are itching to spend money, get nicer wheels- training or racing (depends what you have I guess)-Quickest way to FEEL an improvement. Properly positioned though, nobody’s gonna lose a race cause they were on a Kilo. Oh yeah, put on new bar tape.

5

thank you! bar tape is fairly new and bright yellow

as far as wheels, I have one of those spinergy rev-x in the front and recently got an old zipp that I bought from the ST classifieds, I could use a new rear (riding Spinergy spox road which I like but could be upgraded/updated); problem with (new) wheels is that they are SO expensive.
I bought a set of used hed3’s on ebay a while ago only to find a crack in them near the valve hole and have to go throught the hassle of sending them back and all.

So now I just want to put a little money into the bike and thinking maybe some components might be a good way to go. I like my position, the saddle, the handle bars and aero bars, I’d rather replace some of the mechanical, moving parts.

so cranks wouldn’t bea good idea to replace? How about the fork? Somebody mentioned that to me once. Does that bring any advantage?

thanks.

6

I would disagree about the cranks being only about bling.
I have a Trek E-7 that had the stock Bontrager crank. I had a gift certificate to the LBS and couldn’t find anything worthwile to spend it on so I ended up getting the Bontrager carbon race lite x crank.
It was a TON lighter than the stock crank.

7

first, wheels. they are the things that touch the ground and will give you a great return for upgrading.
second, a solid performing group! the crank and gears DO matter. this is where your power output transfers to the bike to make it go forward!

from my experience the 105 is heavy, and sloppy. depending on your terrain, perhaps a compact crank would make more sense for you. i cannot tell you enough what the compact crank has done for me! my riding has undergone a vast improvement because of the sheer efficiency the crank brought to me. so who ever said the crank doesn’t matter…they couldn’t be MORE wrong.

I also had Record; triple set up. This, even though was a triple, far outperformed the 105, and was much lighter. The shifting was crisp; very enjoyable to ride. my cycling was at the next level, that was the reason for the change out to compact.

The gears of your bike do matter. and if your guts are telling you to change out the 105; listen to that. honestly, there are much better options out there, you would probably really enjoy an upgrade. Lord knows you ride enough to justify one!

your lbs should help you determine what you should keep and upgrade with the new group setup. i can tell you that i shed a few pounds on my bike with new wheels and compact crank. (my wheels are open; the Easton Ascent II. i bought them to race, but ended up riding them all the time. they’re awesome). also my bike is much higher performance, it is an extreme difference of improvement.

other upgrades i’ve done (in addition to crank, wheels, stem) include the Chorus carbon seatpost, and carbon/ti pedals. all of this has made my bike pretty light and quite nice!

(but i admit that i’ve probably spent enough money now to actually have an entirely new bike…however, i’m just not ready to let go of my frame because i enjoy her so much! she is a 2003 or 2004 Bianchi Boron, it is a very nice ride quality and more than effective race machine. :slight_smile:

8

Upgrade your components when you can afford them. Shimano 105 components are heavy. If you can go with Dura Ace. You can knock some weight off your current bike. Eventually, you can upgrade the frame and move the components over to the new frame.

9

Not to be contrary, but trying to be the voice of reason- agreeing with PeterC…

105 components today are better than DuraAce was 10 years ago. Anyone that tells you different is new to cycling, or hasn’t really tried them (the snobbery in cycling is amazing). Hell, the LAST generation of Ultegra was better than the previous generation DuraAce. People won very big races on DuraAce in 1997. Heck, if not for stages like Stage 8 in this years TDF, they might as well ride 105 or Ultegra too (weight matters when your engine is maxed and your person is fully lean, and the road goes straight up- not until then). I’m not saying there aren’t better things- there most certainly are, and they are better, crisper, lighter, and more durable. But unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, replace the stuff when it wears out, and not before. You’ll get raped buying the stuff as separates, and while it’s necessary when you need to be replacing something, it’s a waste before then. I mean how much time do you think you might save in a HIM with DuraAce vs 105? Anyone? If the 105 works, leave it alone. If it drops the chain, or clatters rather than shifting, and it’s adjusted as well as it’s gonna get, now that’s an entirely different story. But please know that unless you race per week as many miles as you train per week, you are going to know about it before race day. Failure is rare, but you’ll feel it coming.

When you decide to get a new bike someday, buy something better. Isn’t that why we buy new bikes anyway? What I would do…

Get comfy. Be sure the fit is good, and if you can’t adjust enough with what you have to fit well, replace things (with nicer ones, of course…) Be sure your seat is good for your important bits. Be sure you like your bars and set-up. Make sure your shoes are working for you, and get some new/nicer training/racing duds. Oh, and Pro2Race tires are completely awesome. There goes $100 right off the top. I do think they roll better than what I had before, and they are so SMOOTH!!! Things you can feel, right? I do agree with the compact crank though if your location is hilly. I’m amazed at how much better I can limit the explosion on steeper climbs now. And BTW, the Shimano R600 and R700 compacts shift great with your regular Shimano front derailleur. Love mine… kept the 53/39 for when I feel better again though. And I have an Ultegra budget, and I’ve never been dropped because it wasn’t DA or Record… out of shape? Another story…

105 is heavy, relatively, yes. No arguement. Of course you can spend your money however it makes you happy- that’s what it’s for. But as an aside, back in the mid 90’s when I was racing my 24 pound hardtail mountain bike I sure loved winning over guys on bikes that cost 3 times what mine did and weighed 20% less.

Good luck.

10

You will be throwing good money after bad. Save your money and upgrade your next bike.
.

11

I’d agree with this.

Unless you are just doing some minor component upgrades, you’re typically better off saving up for a new bike. Unless you are really picky and only pick up components when you find a great deal, you’ll end up spending more (or close to, depending on the frameset) in the end than you would on a new bike. There’s a LOT of markup on individual components and even kits over the OEM price of components that go on new bikes.

With that said, the things that matter the most are wheels and bike fit. Make sure both are in great shape and enjoy your ride until it’s time to buy a new one.

12

And BTW, the Shimano R600 and R700 compacts shift great with your regular Shimano front derailleur.

The new 2008 Ultegra FC-6650 compact crankset is a better choice.

13

The last two things you need are a compact crank or a triple in Miami. hahahaha

I vote for a solid tune-up, and have them check the cables, chain, etc. and replace anything that is worn out. maybe try a new saddle if you don’t like the one you have (well, that’s what I would upgrade on mine). save the rest of your cash and wait to get a new (or used) bike that you are really excited about.