Beyond words: Alex Honnold free-solos El Cap

I’ve never climbed, but have followed Honnold’s career over the last few years because he and what he does are fascinating. His concentration, planning, and ability to harness his mental state is as impressive as his physical skill. This article about his brain function’s measured lack of reactiveness is a great read.

Part of his mentality reminds me of Mark Cavendish. After a sprint finish, Cavendish’s ability to recall every little detail of the race, where each rider was at, what conditions were happening in the finale, moves others made, etc. is so precise, almost as if time was slowed down in a Matrix-like sense, details nobody else sees until slowing down replays frame by frame. Honnold’s recall of each hold, how he felt in certain areas of the climb, and his calculation of moves is quite similar. Obviously Honnold’s sport is far more dangerous than a cycling sprint finish, but there’s definitely something unique that separates the ability of these greatest of all time athletes in their sport to see and process the precision details, make sense of it, and perform through it. It’s fun to watch, but I hope he plays it safer from here on out so we have him around to marvel at for a long time.

If this were a purely physical feat I would agree with you. But if this climb could scroll down from the ceiling at a constant height of four feet above a mat my understanding, as a non-climber, is that there are a large handful of guys who could handle it. The physical aspect of the climb, in and of itself, is not what’s gobsmacking. It’s managing the climb, and every intricate, precise move within it, without ever allowing yourself to be distracted by the overwhelming specter of your instant death if anything goes wrong. Fee climbing is terrifying (for me) but it’s not the same as what Honnold did here. Free soloing is a different challenge and therefore a completely different achievement.

If this were a purely physical feat I would agree with you. But if this climb could scroll down from the ceiling at a constant height of four feet above a mat my understanding, as a non-climber, is that there are a large handful of guys who could handle it. The physical aspect of the climb, in and of itself, is not what’s gobsmacking. It’s managing the climb, and every intricate, precise move within it, without ever allowing yourself to be distracted by the overwhelming specter of your instant death if anything goes wrong. Fee climbing is terrifying (for me) but it’s not the same as what Honnold did here. Free soloing is a different challenge and therefore a completely different achievement.

Like I said I recognize the amazing accomplishment, including the hard work it took to be so comfortable with his skill set to risk his life with no fear. But I still think it is stupid. Alex could’ve accomplished it with a safety rope and it still would have been amazing.

From all the adulation he is getting I hope we don’t start hearing about others free solo’ers risking their lives for fame, only to sneeze while grabbing for their next hold and then slipping leaving them splattered at the base of a cliff.

I agree with Sully on both points, the mental aspect of this is to me just as impressive as the physical. There literally is zero room for error where even the slightest mistake would prove fatal. He had to have laser focus on every single second of the climb. Truly awesome.

I’m sure his free-solo days are not over, but he has said it’s not his next focus. He wants to climb 9A(5.15) sport climbs as his next project.

From all the adulation he is getting I hope we don’t start hearing about others free solo’ers risking their lives for fame, only to sneeze while grabbing for their next hold and then slipping leaving them splattered at the base of a cliff.

Nothing new here really. Free soloists have been doing this for decades now. Also I don’t think that guys at the pinnacle of this sport are doing it for fame. That is not the answer to the question: why did you climb the mountain.

Nice article. Also the comparison to Cav is, in a sense, brilliant.

These people (Alex Honnold) are not like you and me. People aren’t going to just go out and start free soloing big walls. There are a handful of guys who serious consider it, even less who actually do it, and then there’s Honnold. And this handful of people are acutely aware of the risk.

Yes, there are very few like him. He doesn’t look at it with fear like most of us would. He feels completely in control when he is in his groove and for him, it would be like me hiking up a mountain. It is hard but as long as you take your time and don’t do anything stupid, there is nothing to worry about. My bet is that when he is soloing, his heart rate is about where mine is while sitting in front of the computer. The day he is scared is the day he stops free soloing.

People can’t understand because they are not him. He is very unique and I have a lot of admiration for his skills.

it’s the Hon-solo !

Shameless brag: my brother has been up El Cap three or four times (with ropes thank goodness).

From all the adulation he is getting I hope we don’t start hearing about others free solo’ers risking their lives for fame, only to sneeze while grabbing for their next hold and then slipping leaving them splattered at the base of a cliff.

Yeah, while amazing I have to agree that I hope this doesn’t become a “thing.” With the nature of human competitiveness, though, someone’s going to want to free solo faster than Honnold.

Yeah, while amazing I have to agree that I hope this doesn’t become a “thing.” With the nature of human competitiveness, though, someone’s going to want to free solo faster than Honnold.

Faster, or perhaps with fewer crutches. Someone might forego pre-placed water, extensive practice, marked holds.

How long will it be before someone free solos the stone a vue?

These people (Alex Honnold) are not like you and me. People aren’t going to just go out and start free soloing big walls. There are a handful of guys who serious consider it, even less who actually do it, and then there’s Honnold. And this handful of people are acutely aware of the risk.

Exactly.

These people (Alex Honnold) are not like you and me. People aren’t going to just go out and start free soloing big walls. There are a handful of guys who serious consider it, even less who actually do it, and then there’s Honnold. And this handful of people are acutely aware of the risk.

Exactly.

Yep, these followers will die way earlier, way before they can even attempt something Remarkable…

…and be job security for S&r/R teams (with a capital R for ‘Revocery’) units.

From my cousin, who climbs regularly himself. Yes, the post is removed a few degrees. But, I had no idea how to appreciate being a swimmer.

“I have a buddy who’s a pretty legit climber, and I saw where he posted a thing earlier where he and his buddy climbed it in about 3 days with a lot of gear involved, and it took Honnold less than 4 hours without any gear.”

Also, from my cousin:

“Some people are calling it the greatest feat any athlete has ever accomplished.”

Amazing.

I think racing IOMTT is every bit as dangerous and requires exactly the same degree of concentration.

There is 0 margin for error in either

But I still think it is stupid. Alex could’ve accomplished it with a safety rope and it still would have been amazing.

You don’t understand.
Explain it to me then.
I understand risk in my little way. I use to race motocross for years, now I mountain bike some gnarly stuff at least 3 times a week. There is a certain amount of risk I take but I try to keep it to a minimum by wearing things like helmets and pads. Because I know even with my 20 plus years of riding. I am human and can’t control everything. No human is perfect but with Alex’s sport you have no room for error.

Lara logan 60 min: What do you consider Alex’s greatest achievement today?
John Long (world famous rock climber): That he is still alive. If you look at the past of the people who have made free soloing a habit at least half of them are dead.

Also, Honnold is not stupid.
Would you think it would be smart if Garrett McNamara surfed a 90’ foot wave and had no back up if something went wrong?

From all the adulation he is getting I hope we don’t start hearing about others free solo’ers risking their lives for fame, only to sneeze while grabbing for their next hold and then slipping leaving them splattered at the base of a cliff.

**Are you now interested in free soloing ElCap?
Nope and I am not interested in doing back flips on motocross bike.

I didn’t think so.

These people (Alex Honnold) are not like you and me. People aren’t going to just go out and start free soloing big walls. There are a handful of guys who serious consider it, even less who actually do it, and then there’s Honnold. And this handful of people are acutely aware of the risk. And the other handful of these guys are dead.

Jeromy Lusk (RIP) X games gold in freestyle MX was the best even with all the protection he died from a mistake but he was taking a risk for the sport he loved. I get it. I would not get it if he rode without a helmet, boots and pads.

They is no way that this will inspire a fame seeker to emulate thepis type of thing.
Why not? No body could do a back flip on a dirt bike 16 years ago it was unthinkable. Now they have guys doing them all the time and even doing double back flips.

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I think its the same as Steck on the Eiger and John McGuiness on the isle of man

Where normal people focus on all the things that can go wrong all these people don’t see it or minimise it or are well aware of it but can focus so well it doesnt bother them
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“Some people are calling it the greatest feat any athlete has ever accomplished.”

Not to diminish Honnold’s accomplishments, but that’s utter hyperbole. People have free-soloed substantially harder routes. People have free-soloed substantially longer routes.

Athletes from other sports might have a different perspective, too.

Regarding times for climbing El Cap: the first one-day ascent was more than 40 years ago.

Just pointing that out so I can post this picture. :slight_smile:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/Stone_Masters_in_front_of_El_Capitan.jpg

“Some people are calling it the greatest feat any athlete has ever accomplished.”

Not to diminish Honnold’s accomplishments, but that’s utter hyperbole. People have free-soloed substantially harder routes. People have free-soloed substantially longer routes.

Athletes from other sports might have a different perspective, too.

But has anyone free soloed a both harder and longer route? There is not hyperbole as it relates to the sport of pure climbing. Note I’m leaving alpine mountaineering/climbing out of that category.

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