Best Aero Rear Wheel?

Looking to buy an Aero rear wheel under $750.00.
Any suggestions? Renn 575? Renn Madiera? Hed Disc, H3 Carbon. Any thoughts?

Thanks

So long as you don’t race in a hilly area, weight isnt a real big issue. Thus the 575 is a great way to go and will leave you 350 bucks for a front wheel. If you plan in qualifying for Kona then consider the H3.

How about for Ralph’s California HIM or IM Lake Placid, looks like some hills there. Would one go with a Disc still? If so The Madeira lists its weight at 980g, or 575 which is about 200g heavier. Should one go with the H3 C for more versatility?

Well, you mentioned most aero - it has been said here a thousand times: a disc is a disc is a disc. Why even get the Madeira version of the Renn if weight doesn’t matter? Well, because I think it does (to me anyway). Just get a Zipp disc and be done (same aero and save up to 1/2 lb! over other discs) - BUT, it will cost 'ya … perhaps even twice as much. Is it twice as nice - no way, but they sure don’t have any problem selling 'em.

Dude,

Here is thing. You can’t go wrong with a disk or the H3C rear. Although, from everything I have read, the marginal weight differences between different disks will not make a big difference in your performance, there is a psychological effect. If your disk is heavy and you are on a hilly couse, you may not believe you are going fast. And , in my opinion if you are concerned about weight going in then, this pscyhological effect may translate into a real issues in the form of performance costs.

Seeing you are somewhat concerned with weight, you should get a lightweight disk, like either a Madeira or Zipp if you go the disk route or the H3c if you go the tispoke route. If you choose a disk, you will be the most aero. If you choose the H3C, it may be slightly less aero but you have added versatility. In the end, you will be very fast on either a disk or H3C.

I have the Hed Disk and I like it but it is noticeably heavy.

I have a RENN and a HED (Won the HED)

Both feel the same to me and the cost on the is very different.

I’ve purchased many used discs on eBay. I’ve had most of them out there, Ghibli, HED, Zipp, and my current HED3D. I also have the HED3C front. Buy a used combo. Wheels made nowadays last for along time, buy a used set and save $$. My current everyday training set of HED3’s are really Specialized from 1993!!! They look, ride and feel new.

Get a used Zipp disc and used HED3 front as your race wheels. Then when you are rich and famous buy a brand new set just for the hell of it!!

Money being no object, a Zipp disk is the gold standard.

Looking to buy an Aero rear wheel under $750.00.
Any suggestions? Renn 575? Renn Madiera? Hed Disc, H3 Carbon. Any thoughts?

Thanks

For what? I mean, being as you don’t do triatlons and all:

**sbr140.6 **

Aug 28, 2005, 7:56 PM

Post #17 of 78 (2484 views)
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**Re: Larsen is still a PUNK **In reply to] **Quote | Reply ** I don’t do triathlons, I just write about others who do.

Time Trials.

Well… Tom obviously didn’t read your “under $750.00” requirement, so I’d go with the HED. Proven speed.

Well, you mentioned most aero - it has been said here a thousand times: a disc is a disc is a disc. Why even get the Madeira version of the Renn if weight doesn’t matter? Well, because I think it does (to me anyway). Just get a Zipp disc and be done (same aero and save up to 1/2 lb! over other discs) - BUT, it will cost 'ya … perhaps even twice as much. Is it twice as nice - no way, but they sure don’t have any problem selling 'em.

It has been said a thousand times. That doesn’t make it right. Disks have different shapes and widths and they can behave very differently. For example, 700c disks in one study had rotating drag numbers ranging from 101 to 123:

http://www.bsn.com/cycling/WheelAerodynamics.html

It’s also the case that lens disks (like Hed’s) do significantly better in crosswinds than flat disks like Zipps (see the table in the source above).

– Jens

hey Tom, if, as I’ve read here before, a disk is a disk, why Zipp as the gold standard? Cool factor? Quality? Warranty?

Thanks

"It’s also the case that lens disks (like Hed’s) do significantly better in crosswinds than flat disks like Zipps "

CH Aero covers are also lens shaped. Kraig Willet’s wind tunnel study comparing one to a Zipp makes an interesting read.

What about 808 tubular? Very light, and supposedly approaches aero-ness of a disc. Serviceable too. Not sure if it meets the price requirement though.

“why Zipp as the gold standard”

I was amazed when first examining a Zipp close up. Very light and excellent quality. It may not be any faster, but the construction is superb.

I got one of the original Renn Disc wheels about 3 years ago. Best dam bike purchase I ever made. I have never, flat out never, have gotten better customer service from any vendor both proffessionally or personally then with Frank at Renn. Even three years after the sale, his customer service is outstanding.

Peace,

RF

are disk users punks?

:wink:

and yes, I have a 575

If I had one wheel to be my wheel for everything, I would go with the Zipp 808. It offers the aerodynamics of a disk, the weight of a climbing wheel, and is Kona legal.

I personally have a disc and a 404 that I interchange for races. Courses with lots of climbing or cornering gets the 404, flat and straight gets the disc (plus I don’t have to change the gear ratios for the different courses because I just change the whole wheel). I did get these wheels years before the 808 came out, but if I had to do it again, the 808 would be the economical choice, especially with the 10spd giving all the gears you would ever realisticly need.

Yup - I agree. Quality is why they are the gold standard. The never rest on their laurels and are always innovating. The Renn disc is very nice, cheap, and will be nice in 10 years too - but it will probably be the same as it is now. Zipp is constantly doing research and trying to improve. Their Z-series hubs are absolutely amazing for example. Now the new dimples. In a few years, who know - but I will bet it will be better/different. Now this costs, yes, but the “gold standard” is a fitting term for this level of quality, hand-built product and ongoing improvement.