Since the Cannondale website is pretty much useless, I’ll ask here: does anyone know what length cranks are available for an SRM BB30? It looks like Specialized goes down to 167.5-does Cannondale have anything smaller?
This has been a problem for me as well- I am already running a 167.5 Specialized. I like them (after weeks of non-stop tt training), but I would like to try a 165.
It would be pretty easy to drill and tap an aluminum crank if it was long enough- but I don’t know of any aluminum bb30 cranks that go to 180.
By any chance do you move that Specialized from bike to bike? I’m wondering how the Hirth link would like being moved around a bunch. I could probably live with 167.5 on both bikes, but I’m a little apprehensive about that crank?
The FACT crank? I know a few guys that move it between bikes without any problems.
I did move the crank/srm back and forth last year- as I was running 172.5 for both bikes and 53/39 for training on both bikes.
This year I have 172.5 on the road and 167.5 for the tt and I also have a 55/42 on the tt for some strange reason (John Cobb told me to run it).
It was not a problem to do repeated changes. You just need to make sure that the bearings are secure in the frames and do not come out with the cranks.
I was told by a mechanic for a Specialized sponsored team as well as a Specialized Engineer that one should loctite the bb30 bearings in with permanent loctite. I have done this and never had a problem.
What bike(s) are you running with the bb30?
Yep, that’s the one. I read something about ‘green loctite’ (the stuff you need a blowtorch to loosen) and though ‘uh oh’… It looks like a pretty sweet crank.
I did move the crank/srm back and forth last year- as I was running 172.5 for both bikes and 53/39 for training on both bikes.
This year I have 172.5 on the road and 167.5 for the tt and I also have a 55/42 on the tt for some strange reason (John Cobb told me to run it).
It was not a problem to do repeated changes. You just need to make sure that the bearings are secure in the frames and do not come out with the cranks.
I was told by a mechanic for a Specialized sponsored team as well as a Specialized Engineer that one should loctite the bb30 bearings in with permanent loctite. I have done this and never had a problem.
What bike(s) are you running with the bb30?
ahh…so it’s the bearing you install with the green loctite, not the arms. That makes sense. I’m going to use them on a Transition and a Raleigh Team road frame.
640 loctite- get it mail order from EMI for about $20- gets you a lifetime supply.
Costs twice as much if you can find it local- sometimes auto parts wholesalers have it.
You can still get the bearings out with bearing tools in my experience.
They will have it in your mailbox in 2-3 days.
I have that crank on both my bikes and can say it’s ridiculously light. They’ve come on and off without any problems and I don’t recall any Loctite in there. The only issue I’ve had with it (and perhaps this was the Loctite deal?) was the dust cover nut which has worked itself loose a couple times.
Do your bearings stay in the frame when you pull the cranks off? If they stay put, I bet someone loctited them in. Probably the guys at the shop inside Specialized showing you some love?
Ahhh, I see what you’re saying about the bearings, and yes they stay in the frame.