I would like to experiment with a narrower q-factor, currently rotor 3d plus at 147 I think.
its my powermeter as well which is a shame, but I want to get down to about 140mm if I can.
Are there any other options other than cannondale? As these seem to be as rare a rocking horse sh*t!
Alternatively could I put an adapter in and use a regular 24mm chainset, is there one with a narrow Q?
Thanks
Actual measurements in the fairwheel bike reviews, here is the fifth one but you should be able to find the others. Not much out there under 145
http://fairwheelbikes.com/c/forums/topic/crank-review-5-2/
No there isn’t, I’m just wondering if there is a way of engineering something as we have some pretty fancy equipment at work and have technicians who build all our rigs and equipment for us. If I could shorten an axle somehow!
No there isn’t, I’m just wondering if there is a way of engineering something as we have some pretty fancy equipment at work and have technicians who build all our rigs and equipment for us. If I could shorten an axle somehow!
Shortening the axle won’t help since then the crank won’t fit the bottom bracket. You’d need to somehow bend the crank arms inward. Of course there’s a practical limit on how narrow a Q-factor you can go since there are chainrings to deal with.
In this case it will, as its a very long rotor axle in a narrow bb30 so there is at least 1cm of spacer each side.
Anyone know if a rotor 3d plus axle can be removed from the left side crank?
In this case it will, as its a very long rotor axle in a narrow bb30 so there is at least 1cm of spacer each side.
In that case, shortening the axle will screw up your chainline.
The chain line could do with being brought in quite a bit anyway as at the moment the rings are miles from the bb.
The chain line could do with being brought in quite a bit anyway as at the moment the rings are miles from the bb.
There’s a reason the chainrings are miles from the BB: The front chainrings are set up so they are basically centered on the middle of the cassette. Moving the chainrings inboard means that now they’re aligned further inward, meaning the chain will make a larger angle to the smallest cogs out back and increasing the likelihood of the chain rubbing on the front derailleur as well as noise and wear.
tl;dr: chainring position is an input to crank design, not an output.
Well, having just built this bike up the chainrings are most definitely NOT in the centre of the cassette, and are more outboard.
This I presume is due to the very long rotor axle, the rotors have very straight crank arms with not much curve.
Hence if I could find a way of shortening the axle the chainline would be brought in and would be closer to the centre of the cassette.
Well, I have just measured the Q-factor of my rotor 3d plus and it turns out that its 149mm not 147 as quoted.
I was previously at 145 with a sram chainset so I reckon that might be one of the causes of my issues.