Has anyone experienced any problem with the anondized finish of their frame? I have heard several complaints in the past about paint chipping and flaking off of their Cervelo P3 and Dual frames. I’m wondering if the anondized finish on the SL models (i.e. P3-SL and P2-SL) makes these frames more durable and less likely to have the paint problems that I’ve often heard other Cervelo owners complain about.
There is no paint to chip if its anodized…the finish is part of the metal.
Thanks for that clarification. So in effect, it ultimately makes the frame more durable, correct? Seems like other frame manufacturers would catch onto this idea then.
I don’t know enough about it to know if it would make a frame more durable. Also, I have a 2003 Cervelo P2K, and have never had a problem with paint chippage…I think they have largely fixed that problem.
Spot
Correct, there is nothing to chip as there is no “layer” on top of the tube as it is with paint. The anodizing changes outside layer of the tube, rather than adding a layer.
Let me just say that I leaned my P3SL up against my repair stand the other day—STUPID!–while I went for my helmet, the wind blew, the front wheel tuned, and the top-tube bumped into the stand and took a little piece of the finish off (scratch). I mean, it didn’t really even “fall,” just slid… I was disappointed that the finish didn’t hold up but even more disappointed in myself for not being more careful.
So, why aren’t all bikes anodized? Is it because of cost , weight, …?
anodization won’t chip off but you can sure still scratch through the outer layer to a layer underneath leaving a shiny little nick mark. Find someone who owns a anodized mtn bike and check out thier chainstays:) Anodizing is more costly and from what I’ve heard it’s often hard to get the colors exactly how you want them, well unless you want black which pretty much always works.
I have a P3sl and no scratches so far. the finish is nice although I find that if you happen to rub the top tube with your thighs as I sometimes do, that anodized finish can give you a nice big hicky where you are rubbing.
Not sure about the SL…but I think that the paint on my P3 is afraid of Aluminum…just about jumps off the frame at any chance…
That’s true, but on the plus side, the P3 has one of the narrowest toptubes around, so you aren’t so likely to touch it to begin with.
Great, I have two Cervelos and now the owner of the company is inferring that I have big thighs… 
I do love the bike though and yes the narrower top tube does keep my legs a little happier. The finish is great, I like bright bikes better (and as I type this I look over to my two black and one white bikes…) but the flat satin black definetely grows on you and the bike handles like a dream, a very very very fast dream.
you’re going to think this is a strange one, but recently I did some decals for another stwitcher converting his P3sl “Cervelo” into a “Cerveza” I’m guessing he’s getting some custom drink holders welded on to the top tube right now!
Tai,
The decals look good although there is not an accent over the e in cerveza…but I think I’ll leave that alone.
As for drink holders - I was looking into an ANSI approved helmet that had the 2 beer holders attached with the nice straw…I don’t think John Cobb studied that one but it might settle the bottle/aero question once and for all.
Dave
Gerard,
Do you clear coat the frames after they are painted or are the names just decals like the older models? I would think clear-coating the frames would take care of this for the most part. I just bought a 2001 P2K that is red and the paint looks great. A couple of small chips here and there but for a 4 year old frame, that is not bad at all!
Jason
All this discussion about P3SL is getting me really pumped about the arrival of my new P3SL…man I am such a poser. I better be friggin fast on that baby. Clearly my 5:40 bike split from Ironman LP is not worthy of a machine that Zabriskie and Basso win Giro TT’s with.
sub: 5:15 stud = P3Carbon
sub 5:30 stud = P3
Sub 6:00 = P2K
Sub 8:30 = Dual
OK, better put some performances in on that bike or be relegated to poserland forever :-). Clearly I am buying a bike above my current ability…
Specialized has made anodized S-Works frames for couple years.
yes, your ‘paint’ is very durable, as it is not paint. in '03, the company powder-coated their p2 and p3 frames, and that finish in terms of resistance to chipping is far superior to paint.
in 04 (the year they began with the 2-tone color finishes) cervelo used regular frame paint. this finish is the one with chipping issues…
Hello,
Powdercoat is by definition paint. The method of applying and curing the paint differs, but it would take an expert in the field to determine if one part is painted with an epoxy “conventional” paint and one that was painted with a “powdercoat” paint after both were properly cured.
Styrrell
yes, it is technically still paint.
i have been told by experts in the field that powder coatings stick FAR BETTER than traditional ‘paints’ to metals, and aluminum alloys especially.
i myself am no expert, but even i can tell the difference between the two.
powdercoat takes one hell of a lot more elbow grease to remove or sand off…
Hello,
You can tell the differnce between the two because you are likely comparing two different resins. Both conventional and powder paint come in a variety of types of chemistry or resin. When comparing the same type their is no difference.
Styrrell
in 04 (the year they began with the 2-tone color finishes) cervelo used regular frame paint. this finish is the one with chipping issues…
This explains a lot. My 04 P3 has more chips, dings, and paint loss than my 1989 Panasonic beater bike and my 1990 Specialized Hard Rock combined. I’ve come to think of it as “shedding weight” rather than paint loss. On the bright side, I have a great excuse to get it custom painted.