Anyone here use these for everything? I have a chance to pick up a set of these in really good condition for $500.
I’ve got several sets of Zipp wheels … I like them … but I don’t like my 303 tubular set as the wheels are just sort of flexy in a negative way. Others may feel differently … but my rec would be to stay away from 303s.
Dave
Maybe that’s why they are only going for $500? Hmmmm, something to ponder…thanks.
I race and train on 303 CLINCHERS. They are great wheels. I am 160# .
I race on heavier FP80’s for triathlon, and sometimes go to 202 tubulars (1.5 # lighter) for racing.
I ride 808’s for racing and training, they are bombproof!
A friend broke two Zipp 303 wheels using them as dual purpose train/race wheels. I had a set of Hed Jet 60’s that I falsely believed were indestructable until I blew a rear hub on a group ride. When you can pick up bombproof training wheels for around $200. it makes no sense to use expensive race wheels for training.
I bought a set of 2004 Zipp 303 clinchers from the Slowtwitch classifieds last year. This was just before dimpled rims. When they arrived, I noticed they had tiny cracks where the spokes entered the rim on the front wheel. I sent it to Zipp (being completely honest about where I got them) and they replaced the rim at no cost to me. However, they used a 2004 rim. I’d heard there were problems with the 303 rims of that vintage. Sure enought, that rim cracked in a couple of months … all the way through. I sent it off to Zipp and they fixed it again at no cost to me. This time they replaced it with a newer rim (dimples). While that wheel was off at Zipp, the rear one cracked clear through. Zipp fixed that one, too. No cost to me. Amazing service. I’ve now had the wheels back for a couple of months. Two weeks ago, the cassette body in the rear hub went bad and I had to replace it. I’m not sure what else can go wrong with these wheels. I enjoy riding them when they’re rideable, but I sure wouldn’t call them bombproof training wheels. I am training on them, but I got them used and never really intended to race them except maybe on my road bike a time or two.
Zipp has been awesome in helping me out with them. Maybe with the new rims and the hub overhaul they’ll be good to go.
If they wheels you’re looking at are pre-dimples, I’d take a pass. Those rims had issues. (I’m just talking about the 303.)
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I used to train on tubulars, but stopped in 1986. The tires were too expensive to replace and repairs were difficult/impossible. I also used to just carry one spare tubular due to their bulk and was once stranded 40 miles from home (pre cell phone days) after double-flatting.
$500 is a good deal but I would not bother training on tubulars. The only time I do it now is when my tubulars on my race wheels are too old for racing but good enough for training.
-Marc
I use a set of 404s with a wireless PT for training and racing. I have had zero problems. The rear 404 was built with 28 spokes for added strength.
Don’t be scared off too much by the price. Zipp just totally overhauled the 303, so the older versions just went WAY down in value. Nothing wrong with training on tubulars either. It’s a bit of a hassle, but nothing inherently wrong with it. People did it for years. Since I’ve gone back to racing on tubulars, I think I am going to get a set of tubular training wheels. Seems like it’s good to have the practice, routine, etc. Plus you don’t then need to change brake pads (assuming carbon wheels in both cases).
What year are the wheels? the dimpled version is significantly stronger than the old 38mm version and the newest (45mm) version is even better (so i’ve heard)
I ride my (2007) 303’s almost all the time (the exception has been for ‘Beriut’ rides where I know there will be lots of glass) and have had zero problems. I’d say I’ve got at least 6,000 miles on the wheels themselves with only one trip for to the wrench to ‘true’ them up.
I’m 185 lbs.
If they are the dimples version tell your friend I’ll take them 
I’d love a set mounted up with some Pave tires for the ghetto.
I know this will sound stupid…but are the ‘dimples’ easy to spot or do I need to know a serial number on them? When were the dimpled versions produced initially. These are from 2004 I just found out…thx.
zipps were without dimples in 04
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darn…thx:(
would the general consensus be…stay away from non-dimpled 303’s?
Whadda ya mean by “race”? Road race? Or triathlon? Cuz’ if you mean triathlon then a 303 is about as useful as a square wheel (e.g. they aren’t nearly deep enough to considered a good triathlon race wheel).
If someone gave me a free pair of 303’s I’d train on them, but I don’t find them even deep enough for most road racing. Only for the hilliest races where superlight wheels matter. The rest of the time (all but one race for me) I’d rather have a 50mm rim or deeper for road racing. 303s have only a very limited range of racing usefulnees and for that reason I’d rate their value down close to zero.
I have a set of 303 dimpled tubulars that I run on my road bike and have been happy with them, esp. for big climbing days. I had the non-dimpled versions prior, and had to replace both (front de-lam’ed, replaced for free; rear sidewall exploded following an uphill emergency bunny hop to clear, my $$ to replace). I think the 303’s are a good all-round road wheel, but would only run the front on my TT bike if it was howling out, since I’m light (127#) and get blown around in the wind. Also, I find myself preferring a 404 rear / 303 front for my road bike; 808 rear / 404 front for my TT bike.
For $500, I think you’ll find the 303’s to be just fine. If they do crack / explode, a crash replacement will let you upgrade to the new rims which have a kevlar bridge for better impact resistance.