I’ve ridden one for 2 years, and love it - the frame is solid, with no more flex than a solid frame, the bike is responsive and very quick. Mine is not the CX, but the regular Breakaway version, Ultegra 10sp w/ a compact crank. My Giant TCR has the cockpit swapped out for a tri set-up, so for road bike use, the Ritchey gets the call… most of my training for IMFL in 2007 was done on it, actually.
I never break it down anymore for travel, but it was quite easy to do, taking about 10 minutes. The 26"X26" case that is fits into is a pretty nice design, too. The only issue that I had is in the lower couplers themselves; the bike comes with 2 (1 on, plus a spare), but they are aluminium, and one of mine broke. I thought it quite fragile when it happened, and I’m actually concerned that the others may break when I take them off… maybe consider buying some extras… but I’d definitely recommend the bike…
Regarding your question:
You should know that “ride quality” has a lot to do with frame size and most important: wheel and tire selection.
I run 29er rims and 32-34 tires with diamonds for hard-pack, since I often take it on the trails (less pinch flats and better comfort with wider rims).
And my frame is a little on the large side for the occasional touring on vacations (frame has eyelets for fenders and racks).
With all that said, the frame feels rock-solid on the trails, althought the welds on mine don’t look too nice. Weight is pretty average for a TIGged steel frame.
The down tube coupler does loosen over time, especially if you take it to the trails. But I just keep an eye on it and when the coupler starts turning I re-tighten it.
So yes, it requires some attention.
Also keeping the coupler clean when putting the bike back together is crucial for frame longevity.
The stock fork has a really stable steering geometry to it and with the 29er setup feels a little sluggish sometimes, which isn’t a problem except the first few minutes of the ride while I get used to it. The fork itself is a boat-anchor, though.
The cable routing for cantilevers can be rather tight (sloping top tube). I had a hard time fitting some inline adjusters. I went with an old-school cable carrier setup.
Shift cable routing is below the BB, which can be a problem if you take it to the mud.
Paint is solid, but not great. Frame-saver is a must for this kind of steel frame.
Having it for about 2 years and enjoying the lazy-boy ride.
WARNING:
Don’t buy if you need to feel FAST when training!
I got my Litespeed Tachyon (similar to their Saber model) retrofitted with S&S Torque couplings. I seriously considered the Ritchey breakaways, but (1) I didn’t need another bike taking up space and (2) my Tachyon was able to be retrofitted for less $$.
I just feel better about the S&S couplings - they are very strong and I don’t see how they could fail. Ride quality is not sacrificed at all. The couplings for the Ritchey frames just didn’t look all that strong to me. I’m sure they are fine, but my peace of mind with the S&S couplings was a big factor.
You can get retrofits on Ti and Steel frames - but not Al or Carbon. (as long as the tubes are round).
Im wondering about the ride quality of a Steel Ritchey Breakaway CX as a full time road bike. The bike would pretty versatile (Commuter, CX, Crits, Travel trainer, etc.), let me know what your experiences are with this frameset pros/cons.
Thanks!
KW
I raced on the Ritchey ROAD version for the better part of a season on the road. Logged about 6400 miles on it before it was stolen. It was capable enough for the crits and rolling road races of the midwest. Had the longest ride of my life on it when I got a little lost on a trip from Cocoa Beach, FL across the state. Probably would have been much worse off on one of 'dem stiff and fancy new aluminum or carbon fibre rigs.
Great bike, you’ll enjoy it if you aren’t looking for the ultimate in high performance bicycles.
how easy is it to break down? Do you have to remove the pedals, bars, seatpost, chain, derailleur, as you do when shipping in something like a Trico case?
I just feel better about the S&S couplings - they are very strong and I don’t see how they could fail. Ride quality is not sacrificed at all. The couplings for the Ritchey frames just didn’t look all that strong to me. I’m sure they are fine, but my peace of mind with the S&S couplings was a big factor.
Another ditto on S&S. I love my S&S coupled Waterford and it is rock solid and rides beautifully. Nothing to break so they don't have to give you spare bits.
how easy is it to break down? Do you have to remove the pedals, bars, seatpost, chain, derailleur, as you do when shipping in something like a Trico case?
how easy is it to break down? It is child’s play to a good bike mechanic
Do you have to remove the pedals - yes
bars, - yes
seatpost, - yes, the seatpost is a part of the coupling device of the seat tube
chain, - no (?)
derailleur, yes, I removed the rear derailleur to prevent it from getting damaged, I never unhooked the cables or chain, just unbolted it from the hanger and placed it within the frame members for protection.
It was about $1500, which included the hard-shell suitcase with TSA net and spacers, coupling wrench, a new headset (that I needed), and cable connectors. S&S website lists builders who can do it. I got Ti-Cycles to do mine. Takes about 2-3 weeks depending on the queue.