Got another stem from Felt to go lower. Bottomed it out. I’m a long course guy only but trying to get as aero as possible. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AmLlUbxUao
Got another stem from Felt to go lower. Bottomed it out. I’m a long course guy only but trying to get as aero as possible. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AmLlUbxUao
Sitting to far back and upright on that adamo saddle…With a relatively slack (effective saddle fore/aft) your pelvis isn’t rotated forward very much…That is what is causing the big hump in your back…You have to bend somewhere when you don’t rotate your pelvis…See my old posts on any of the bike fit because all these issues are the similar…
Don’t fit your tri bike by starting out in an upright hands on horns position and then try to bend to the drops…Start you bike fit from the Areo postion and stay there…How areo you want to get is irrelevent until you figure out how to get a flat back (not necessarily horizontial…just not bent) and maintain the integrity of your hip angle…
After taking some advice on attempting to not look like the hunchback of Notre Dame, scooted more on the front of the seat to attempt to rotate more at the hips and also moved the seat back some to compensate for moving forward on it. Any thoughts?
In scooting yourself forward on the saddle, you did what is probably a good thing. In moving the saddle back, you did what it is probably not a good thing. Ideally, you need to get steeper. Then you can move your armpad contact point down and away, which will hopefully aid you in pulling your hips/sacrum towards the front of your bike.
Here is an example. This subject does not do a perfect job of hip rotation, but the theme is good. Steeper, decently rotated hips.
Nice bibs. Listen to James.
your daughter didn’t seem impressed with your position either.
Please share pic of dog before we go any further.
In scooting yourself forward on the saddle, you did what is probably a good thing. In moving the saddle back, you did what it is probably not a good thing. Ideally, you need to get steeper. Then you can move your armpad contact point down and away, which will hopefully aid you in pulling your hips/sacrum towards the front of your bike.
Here is an example. This subject does not do a perfect job of hip rotation, but the theme is good. Steeper, decently rotated hips.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8kK8z7HTbM]
+1…you are basically in the same position as before, but in a different position on the saddle…and yes (better) now you need to give yourself somewhere to go…longer and lower…Pelvic rotation and position go together…
This has probably been discussed before, but I’m still in the dark about this: My LBS fitter slammed my saddle all the way back (aft), almost as far as it will go, because she wanted to prevent my knee from going past the ball of my foot when the crank arms are level (e.g. dropping a plumb line from knee and seeing if it is fore/aft of ball of foot). She said that having the knee to the fore of the ball of foot, or the pedal contact point, was really bad. It seems like the steeper you go with your saddle, the further forward your knee is going to be relative to your foot/pedal contact. Was my fitter just not up to date on modern fitting techniques, or what’s the deal? Is it actually not a big deal if your knee is over or even in front of the ball of your foot? I’d like to go steeper, as you mention, to get that hip rotation and thus go lower in the front without the uber-tight angles.
My saddle setup is not quite as far back as Tejay’s saddle is, but you get the idea from this illustration:
This has probably been discussed before, but I’m still in the dark about this: My LBS fitter slammed my saddle all the way back (aft), almost as far as it will go, because she wanted to prevent my knee from going past the ball of my foot when the crank arms are level (e.g. dropping a plumb line from knee and seeing if it is fore/aft of ball of foot). She said that having the knee to the fore of the ball of foot, or the pedal contact point, was really bad. It seems like the steeper you go with your saddle, the further forward your knee is going to be relative to your foot/pedal contact. Was my fitter just not up to date on modern fitting techniques, or what’s the deal? Is it actually not a big deal if your knee is over or even in front of the ball of your foot? I’d like to go steeper, as you mention, to get that hip rotation and thus go lower in the front without the uber-tight angles.
My saddle setup is not quite as far back as Tejay’s saddle is, but you get the idea from this illustration:
Find a new fitter ASAP
This has probably been discussed before, but I’m still in the dark about this: My LBS fitter slammed my saddle all the way back (aft), almost as far as it will go, because she wanted to prevent my knee from going past the ball of my foot when the crank arms are level (e.g. dropping a plumb line from knee and seeing if it is fore/aft of ball of foot). She said that having the knee to the fore of the ball of foot, or the pedal contact point, was really bad. It seems like the steeper you go with your saddle, the further forward your knee is going to be relative to your foot/pedal contact. Was my fitter just not up to date on modern fitting techniques, or what’s the deal? Is it actually not a big deal if your knee is over or even in front of the ball of your foot? I’d like to go steeper, as you mention, to get that hip rotation and thus go lower in the front without the uber-tight angles.
My saddle setup is not quite as far back as Tejay’s saddle is, but you get the idea from this illustration:
Find a new fitter ASAP
Agreed. That methodology has proven useful in road bike fitting and certain “schools of thought” still prescribe to that on tri bikes, but it was probably more a function of “TT” fitting and less of “triathlon” fitting. The goal of triathlon biking is not just to be “aero” (relatively speaking) it’s also to be “efficient.” Steeper and lower is more efficient, generally speaking.
read this: http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/bikefit.html
This will get you to understand bike fit. Then figure out the most important thing about bike fit…comfort. Your going to be on the saddle for anywhere up to 6hrs…basic fit, then be comfortable…comfy comfy comfy!
Ok… I’ll be the first. Seat looks way too high. That’s a ton of toe point @ max knee angle. As a basic reference, with one shoe unclipped bring then pedal down to match the seat tube angle (i.e. bottom of the stroke)… now put the the heal of your shoe on the pedal… does it reach without having to rock your hip to that side. If it doesn’t lower the seat until it does reach. Now check the other side. That will give you a starting point for seat height. You really can’t go too far into a fit without sorting this first.
A quick measure put you max knee angle at 145* which is at the high end but o.k… but, the angle of the bottom of your shoe to parallel with the ground was 34* That was in the picture. In the second video the shoe angle looked even steeper.
Id like to see the same knee angle or a bit lower …but with the shoe angle closer to 10 or 15* at the bottom of the pedal stroke. I’m guessing that will require a seat drop of a couple cm.
This has probably been discussed before, but I’m still in the dark about this: My LBS fitter slammed my saddle all the way back (aft), almost as far as it will go, because she wanted to prevent my knee from going past the ball of my foot when the crank arms are level (e.g. dropping a plumb line from knee and seeing if it is fore/aft of ball of foot). She said that having the knee to the fore of the ball of foot, or the pedal contact point, was really bad. It seems like the steeper you go with your saddle, the further forward your knee is going to be relative to your foot/pedal contact. Was my fitter just not up to date on modern fitting techniques, or what’s the deal? Is it actually not a big deal if your knee is over or even in front of the ball of your foot? I’d like to go steeper, as you mention, to get that hip rotation and thus go lower in the front without the uber-tight angles.
My saddle setup is not quite as far back as Tejay’s saddle is, but you get the idea from this illustration:
To what others are saying: Knee over pedal spindle is not very relevant in tri bike fits. The consensus is to ride steeper (moves knees forward) and to ride shorter cranks (moves pedal spindle backwards). There is NO WAY to line up the two with this trending type of fit.
Seat may or may not be too high…If it is too high than understanding why is important. I hate to get into too detailed of a post on this thread because I have discussed in length so many times before…For this paticular rider…(well all riders)
Pelvis needs to things to rotate foward
-
A saddle and saddle position (including how you sit on it) that allows your pelvis to rotate foward…ride the tip and/or in this case it is noseless (adamo) so junk off the front so to speak…
-
Stack and reach that allows the the pelvis to rotate forward…This rider followed protocol for criteria #1, but ignored #2…so his pelvis is in the exact same position in both fits…
Note - keep in mind that pelvic rotation also corresponds to how slack/steep you are going to ride as this corresponds to to your hip angle and ability to apply force to the pedals…More upright/slack (see road bike) position less pelvic rotation (why this 2nd postion doesn’t look (feel) any more stable than the first. More steep (long and low) will require more anterior pelvic rotation (to (to maintain hip angle) because you are changing your position relative to the bottom bracket and effects the way (directional force) you apply power to the pedals…Criteria #2 is a major contibutor for why I see saddles getting raised way too high where saddles are too fore relative to how high the front end is…or the other way around…too slack for how low the front is…
This also why KPS is no longer a valid fitting protocol and why I see so many hybrid fits with respect to steepness, stack, and reach…(and also contributes to the flexibility myths)
Keeping the integrity of the hip angle is #1 priority when it comes to stability, comfort, and utilimately a riders ability to produce power on the bike…
So yes he needs to get seat height dialed in, but make sure you do it from the tt postion and how you should ride a TT bike, not from an upright position…See criteria #2…you need to be longer and lower in the front, so it will let you pelvis relax and come down (rotate foward)…You body will self select a really stable good position if you give it an acceptable range of parameters to work with-in…
Thanks for the responses! I really appreciate it (I didn’t mean to hijack the OP, but it seemed relevant to the conversation). I might tinker with my fit, either with some knowledgeable friends or a different fitter.
Well put the seat back to the original position, kept on the forward part of the seat, and made the forward movement up in the arm pads. Definitely still look like Quasi Moto.
I have nothing to offer, other than the bright green Kurt Kinetic clashes with the pink…
Since you seem keen to improve try this (if you can)
- Saddle 2cm forward (actual # isn’t important just curious to see what a big movement looks like)
- If possible, can you angle the stem so that it’s parallel with the ground (or is that a fixed bayonet stem?)
.
Since you seem keen to improve try this (if you can)
- Saddle 2cm forward (actual # isn’t important just curious to see what a big movement looks like)
- If possible, can you angle the stem so that it’s parallel with the ground (or is that a fixed bayonet stem?)
I agree stem has got to come down. Also, I will say again, seat needs to come down too.
Positioning on the adamo looks much better IMO.