My god people, the wheel questions are really repetitive so here you go:
Rule 1: run the deepest wheels you have.
Rule 2: if you have a disc–use it.
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
As for the “what wheels should I buy?” threads–
Www.roadbikereview.com has many, many reviews of just a about every wheel out there.
Done.
but what if there is a hill on the course?
Unfortunately, the “reviews” on road bike review tend to be full of all sorts of arguments that totally undercut your “rules.” Like, “I immediately noticed how much faster these wheels accelerated…”
.
Come on Jordan–nobody in here ever claimed how much “faster” new wheels felt? Once you sort through the rif raff, there are some great reviews.
there are some great key words in most sports product reviews that clue you in, interestingly they are often them same
with horsepower modifications on cars: “response seemed improved”
with light tubies on bikes, or ‘stiff frames’: “very responsive”
those were both clues that “modification did nothing”
Unfortunately, the “reviews” on road bike review tend to be full of all sorts of arguments that totally undercut your “rules.” Like, “I immediately noticed how much faster these wheels accelerated…”
.
My god people, the wheel questions are really repetitive so here you go:
Rule 1: run the deepest wheels you have.
Rule 2: if you have a disc–use it.
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
Done.
I have a question : does rule 2 apply even for poor cyclists (6h on IM) ?
My god people, the wheel questions are really repetitive so here you go:
Rule 1: run the deepest wheels you have.
Rule 2: if you have a disc–use it.
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
Done.
I have a question : does rule 2 apply even for poor cyclists (6h on IM) ?
See rule #3
My god people, the wheel questions are really repetitive so here you go:
Rule 1: run the deepest wheels you have.
Rule 2: if you have a disc–use it.
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
Done.
I have a question : does rule 2 apply even for poor cyclists (6h on IM) ?
Especially for poor cyclists. Trust me. 
My god people, the wheel questions are really repetitive so here you go:
Rule 1: run the deepest wheels you have.
Rule 2: if you have a disc–use it.
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
As for the “what wheels should I buy?” threads–
http://Www.roadbikereview.com has many, many reviews of just a about every wheel out there.
Done.
You forgot the most important question:
Clincher or Tubular?
but what if there is a hill on the course?
Well, then you would be on a road bike…duh…
My god people, the wheel questions are really repetitive so here you go:
Rule 1: run the deepest wheels you have.
Rule 2: if you have a disc–use it.
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
Done.
I have a question : does rule 2 apply even for poor cyclists (6h on IM) ?
Especially for poor cyclists. Trust me.
Cheers
Rule 3: unless you weigh 85 pounds and expect 50+ knot winds, rules 1 and 2 apply.
that’s funny but true, so I like this.
Rule 4: use clinchers unless you have a support car behind you.
Rule 4: use clinchers unless you have a support car behind you.
Didn’t Tony Martin have a support car behind him??? 
he rode a hed jet 9 front, stinger disc rear
.
he rode a hed jet 9 front, stinger disc rear
jet rear too
.
he rode a hed jet 9 front, stinger disc rear
I know the brand he used… he had a support car and yet he chose clinchers.
he rode a hed jet 9 front, stinger disc rear
I know the brand he used… he had a support car and yet he chose clinchers.
yeah exactly, were on the same page. theres no good reason to ride tubulars.