(notice the hole in the top tube about 3" from the seat post, a little tunnel, for making seat post adjustments)
Below is an excerpt from Tom’s review on the Felt DA 650 that explains my “little problem”
Finally, my only area of concern: The Felt DA650 has an interestingbladed seat tube and seat post. The post is excellent quality with a CNC machined, forged seatpost head that is entirely micro-adjustable with a single 5mm hex wrench. At first glance you can’t figure out how to raise and lower the seatpost to adjust addle height. The top tube of the bike flares in the vertical axis as it joins the seat tube, and in that flare is a small hole. Through the small hole you access a small 3mm hex setscrew that pushes a wedge against the aero seatpost locking it in the desired adjustment. It works fine, but made me nervous. What happens if you strip this? Also, rotating the wrench as you make the adjustment has the potential of scratching the top tube. Again, you have to be careful. I haven’t had the least bit of problem so far with mine. It has worked perfectly, but it should be handled with respect. Remember, this is high-end, lightweight racing equipment. I wouldn’t let the local “bike mechanic” touch it. Is a guy who works on Ford Explorers qualified to service Formula 1 cars? No. The DA650 is the bicycle equivalent of a Formula 1 racecar.
Well Tom, you had cause for concern, 'cause I stripped that little @#$% set screw. Called two local Felt dealers here in Houston. “a Felt DA? Never heard of it. Is it a mountain bike? A BMX?”
I was putting my bike back together after arriving at Disney for the 1/2IM. I have had my seat post slip once before and did not want to have a problem this time. Hell, I even spoke to Felt about my concerns months ago, and thought I took measures to prevent such a problem. A real PITA to put backin the bike box too. Major dissasembly job to make it fit.
So now what? Should I attempt a little tap & die job myself? Anyone know a good mechanic here in Houston?
I own a DA too and just got a problem fixed with the seat clamp mechanism that holds the rails of the saddle and allows you to tilt the saddle up or down. It stripped on its own and was the cause of many disturbing long rides with a lot of tinging and snapping and popping sounds coming from the seatpost whenever I sat down. R and A Cycles here in Brooklyn got me a new piece to rpleace the stripped one and so far everything sounds okay (silence!) (I did a 120-miler last Saturday with no noises, thak god).
Your problem sounds like it could be fixed. Did you contact SuperDave through the forum? He’s a Felt rep. Felt couldn’t help you? Try contacting racycles.com and see if they can help or offer advice (even if you didn’t buy the bike there, they have a lot of DA’s still for sale and are a MAJOR Felt dealer).
I feel for you. I love my DA but the delicate nature of the seatpost has me looking at my buddy’s P3SL with more than just lust, you know?
It can be repaired. Is the frame stripped, or the bolt itself? I just fixed one at Bikesport the other day that simply needed a retap and helicoil. Good as new.
I suspect just the set screw (bolt) is stripped on the hex (maybe now rounded?. I need to get a flashlight in there and “see” if that is even possible. Or part of the set screw could have broken off?
What is a helicoil? I have a little tap I could use. I figured I would try to drill a hole into the set screw and back it out w/ the tap. Isn’t it just that easy? I assume your concern is I screw up the threading in the fram right?
Makes me really want to get rid of the bike. I wish there was some fix once I get the set screw out like a clamp that could go on the outside of the bike.
It is no more a mystery than a cleat bolt or a BB cup. If the tool just spins the set screw, you’ve stripped the 3mm hex head. Should be able to remove that with an easy out. A good tool makes a big difference. The non-standard nature of the binder shrouds it in mystery and misunderstanding. It was a clever way to integrate the binder but seems to befuddle more than its share of shops and mechanics.
A previous post questioned whether the DA was discontinued because of the binder and the issues it had presented some owners. The B2 is the evolution of the DA, a 4 year old design.
The tool just appears to spin inside the hex screw. So I think the screw hex head is stripped. Since it is rideable, it cannot be the fram that is stripped.
When you say easy out, you mean a certain tool - right?
I guess maybe I should just leave this to the experts. For now, the bike is rideable so long as I do not get the urge to lower my seat.
an easy out is like a reverse threaded wedgie thing that’ll engage the stripped head whilst spinning in the same direction that would remove the bolt itself.
I have several different shapes of easy outs in my tool box. one set looks like a set of torx bits, these seem to work well if they are tapped (with a small hammer) into the head. If you have to tap the torx to get it to engage in the hex head it some times will be enough to one time it loose. Then of course replace the screw.
Go to the local Sears Craftsmen tool store and you can see the different types of easy out’s the have available to remove the socket head bolt. The problem will be getting the easy out into the hole to get to the bolt.
Exactly Mike. I have seriusly considered this. The screw head is a hex-hed and not sure how an easy out would work, but maybe it is worth a few bucks to try it out.
But if I damage the threads in the frame, then I am really screwed (no pun intended). Hah!
Besides after seeing your P3 the other day and seeing the Cervelo booth at Disney (not to mention all of the brainwashers here) I may just have to step over to the “dark side”.
Through the small hole you access a small 3mm hex setscrew that pushes a wedge against the aero seatpost locking it in the desired adjustment.
Whooooooo Hoooooooo!
Problem fixed. It is actually a 1/8" hex set screw. Turns out, I must have had it pretty tight, and the 3mm t-handle hex was spinning inside a 1/8" hex “hole”. I shined a light into the “tunnel” and the screw did not look so stripped after all. I popped in a 1/8 just in case. I was actually looking for a 3.5mm t-handle hex, and since I don’t have one I figured a 1/8" looked close. Obviously I was a real moron for never finding out the exact size of the set screw - oh well, lesson learned.
So my bike is now rideable - soon as I put the chainrings on, derailure on, and figure out how to get my fork/headset back together. When I couldn’t get the seatpost out, I had to find another way to make the bike fit in thge bike box.
But even though bike is back together, I am still in the market for a P3 SL or carbon (most likely the latter).
(notice the hole in the top tube about 3" from the seat post, a little tunnel, for making seat post adjustments)