I’m new to the world of 650c wheels, having just purchased a 650 P2K over the holidays. My question is: does anyone else have a hard time mounting tires on wheels this size. I’m talking about 650c in general. In particular I’m dealing with the stock ritchey wheels, and sets of continental or michelin tires (one wire bead the other kevlar). Both are hard to mount to the point that a couple time I’ve gotten so angry I had to do something else for a while to cool down. I have been changing tires for years, and years (turned wrenches in a shop as an undergrad for a couple of years), so I don’t think my technical skills are the problem.
The reason from my question is that I’m considering options for race wheels (probably going to be Renn disk and an ebay H3). After years of dealing with the hassle of tubulars, I was just going to get clinchers, because they’re so much less trouble, just as light, I can’t tell a difference in ride, and I can change a 700c clincher just about as fast as a 700c tubular. But now after fighting with these 650c tires, I have visions of tossing my bike into the weeds during a race because I can’t change a dang tire. Are tubulars the way to go with 650c?
It sort of makes sense with a smaller diameter and all, but am I out of my mind? Do I just need to practice, or am I missing a trick? Or are they really that much harder to mount?
First off, congratulations on the new bike. I think you will love your P2K. They are killer. I’ve owned three Cervelos and am considering two more. I also sell tons of them because I believe in them. They’re very good bikes in my opinion- both as a retailer and as a triathlete.
Well, yeah, you’re right. 650c wheels and tires are little smaller in diameter so there is less rubber to stretch and what is there is tough to stretch to begin with. Having said that, different tire brands and different rim brands seem to “get along” better than others. Also, the first time the tire is mounted is the worst. The tire will stretch just bit so the second and third time when you remove and remount it- as with changing a flat- should be a good bit easier than the first time, which can be tough.
Tubulars are, to a degree, the same. First off, there is super simple technique for stretching on a tubular that never, ever fails. I wish I could describe it. You sort of put the wheel on the ground, upright (not laying on its side on the ground)and press the tire around it toward the ground, stretching it as you go. With practice you will be able to mount a tubular in (literally) under 30 seconds, maybe under 10 seconds if you are inspired.
For flats on the road it takes me over five minutes to change a clincher, but I can change a tubular in under two minutes.
Remember that when you change a tubular on the road the spare is not completely glued on. It is held in place by the “contraction” of the tire around the rim as it is inflated to full pressure and by whatever glue residue is left on the rim. Always be sure to inflate a chaged tubular to absolute full pressure or a little more with your CO2. That is most of what is holding the tire on. Then, be careful about going through corners too fast. On the flats you can go as fast as you want. Realisitcally, it is pretty tough to roll the tire off if it is properly inflated and there is a reasonable residue of glue on the rim. Be sure you use good glue such as Continental or Panaracer (the “clear” glues). You may do well to avoid the nasty smelling, old school red colored glues that gave tubulars a bad rap.
In short (too late for that…), take your time, be careful and don;t sweat it. Eventually the whole thing will come together. If worse comes to worse, lug it back to the bike shop and say, “Who can I buy a coffee to show me how this works?”
I’ve found there is a big difference in tires, some are easy to mount without a tire lever, some next to impossible. The ones that are easy I tend to wonder about, maybe they have a better chance of pulling off the rim. I have seen at least one wheel manufacturer (Hed maybe?) say not to use a particular tire brand because they are too loose. I haven’t noticed too much difference in rims.
I presume you already know about pinching the tire to the center of the rim.
In any case, I’d go with tubulars for the race wheels. One big factor for me is tubulars are safer in my experience. When a clincher flats on the rear, there is no side to side traction, in fact that is why I usually notice the flat. Tubulars are much more ridable as they flat, they rarely blow instantly, and seem to flat less often in the first place. Every couple of years I get practically stranded on a training ride when I blow a clincher tire rather than just an inner tube. With a tubie you have the tire as well (just don’t get multiple flats!). I had to drop from a race once when the bead ripped out of my MICHELIN clincher. I had two of those tires, the other one blew out the bead on a training ride shortly after.
Of course this has been rehashed a thousand times, and I tend to agree that I notice very little difference in comfort or speed, and at 190 lbs it should matter more than most for me. Comfort is hard to judge unless comparing identical wheels.