3rd brake lever on aero extensions...?

Triathlon Forum
1

Does anyone use one? If so, got any pics?

It doesn’t seem like it would be that tough to pull off using one of the inline levers common for cyclocross and a longer (maybe something made for a tandem) brake cable/housing setup. But, it looks like coming up with something that will work on the smaller diameter of an aero extension (as opposed to a base bar) will be a challenge. Any ideas or suggestions for levers?

Also, since these levers are used mainly to scrub a bit of speed while aero (as opposed to actually being used for braking), would it make more sense to use the front of rear brake?

Thanks.

Steve

2

I used HED aero brake lever last year. It’s a very elegant design that plugs into the bar end shifter.

Do a “Search Posts” & I’m sure you’ll see pics

3

Try this or this .

4

I’ll have pictures in about a week or so. My son is getting a new bike and we’re putting on a third lever. I saw these last year and thought they would be a good idea for slowing down a bit while maintaining aero position on downhills or sweeping turns. In his case, he was in an accident and has no shoulder mobility. The lever will allow him to stay on the aero bar for the whole race if required. Since his problem is with his left shoulder, we’re doing front brake so that he can have that brake. I seem to remember that the pros’ bikes I saw were doing rear brakes.

Our LBS says the process is pretty easy using a splitter and that he has the parts in stock. He’s not using one of the cross levers. I thought of them too but I don’t think they have a spot for a cable end.

5

Does anyone use one? If so, got any pics?

I used one for about a year and have since sold it. Overall, I did like it and definitely got used it having it there. However, when I switched brakes (Cervelo stock to Cane Creek and then to Zero Gravity) and then bars (from Vision to Oval Concepts), it became problematic and a couple LBS never got it to work well - hence, it’s gone.

The trick that I had problems with was getting it routed in such a way that it was really aero. The specific problem was that the main bar brake wouldn’t be responsive, but the aero brake would work fine. My guess is that the curve from the main brake to the aero bar tube was too great. Originally I didn’t have the 3rd lever routed thru the aero tube, but tried to get a bit too aero / cute I guess.

I’ve got some pics of what I tried to do, if you want, I’ll see if I can find them and post them. No one that I’ve talked to had seen anyone try to do what we tried (and failed) - probably for good reason - doesn’t work well.

So, my advice is during base season, maybe play with routing it down the aero tube, but don’t necessarily expect it to work well. If you can’t get it to work well, just route it regularly and you’ll probably be very happy with it.

Also, and this probably goes without saying, but if you have multiple bikes or get used to it and then remove it, be careful as it took me a while to learn that it wasn’t there - I kept reaching for it first when I needed to slow down…and it wasn’t there…bummer!

Hope this helps,
Chris

6

Sorry for the massive pic - trying to figure out how to resize it, but hopefully you can see the brake cables going into and out of the aero tube. The splitter is about 1/2 down the tube. Tried it with Nokon as well, not much better in my case.

-Chris

http://i13.tinypic.com/4c22mgn.jpg

7

Can’t tell much about the brake lever or cable routing in that pic. Wrong pic???

The JTek AeroBrake that IronDad posted look pretty interesting. (And, the shifter-mounted version looks identical to the Hed system.) The installation looks nice & clean, although more expensive than a CX lever setup.

Anyone have experience with the JTek system (either shifter- or clamp-mount)? I wonder if one has an advantage over the other. The biggest difference I can tell is that the shifter-mount setup would place the lever inside or outside of the extension (depending on how you have the shifter installed), whereas the clamp mount would place it directly under the exension (like usual). The clamp-mount probably adds a tiny bit of weight, as well.

Steve

8

I have one. I have the one that attaches to the aerobar lever (not the clamp) and I have it for the rear brake. I guess I’m one of those guys that will forever think i’ll flip one day using the front brake even though I never have.

Here’s a review by a guy (Gary Tingley?) who has it attached to the front brake. Not sure if he’s a tour de france guy since he mentioned something about it in the article or triathlon guy or just a joe schmo like me (but the name does sound familiar).

http://socalttseries.com/...bid/143/Default.aspx

Here’s some pics of my setup. First pic is the brake lever and the second is the brake controller. Sorry for the not so good pics.

http://i16.tinypic.com/2r40w7o.jpg

http://i16.tinypic.com/4c8lguc.jpg

9

http://socalttseries.com/Training/GearReviews/JtekEngineeringAeroBrakeSystem/tabid/143/Default.aspx

http://tinypic.com/aagler
http://tinypic.com/aahdhy.jpg
.

10

The JTek AeroBrake that IronDad posted look pretty interesting. (And, the shifter-mounted version looks identical to the Hed system.)

They are the same thing.

11

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

I do have a few questions for you, though…

It appears that you have your cables routed through the DoubleControl a little differently than what the instructions on JTek’s page show http://www.jtekengineering.com/Images/AeroBrake/DoubleControl%20Instructions.pdf Is there a reason for that? It seems like their recommended installation would make for a little cleaner install. Did you try it and find that it didn’t work as well?

Have you noticed any difference in the performance of your original rear brake lever now that you have it routed through the DoubleControl? I really don’t want to sacrifice primary braking performance.

On a scale of 1 - 10 with 10 being your main brake levers stopping power, how would you rate the power of the AeroBrake lever? Have you found it to be sufficient for anything you’ve wanted to use it for?

What’s the “tube” under your left extension? Salt tablet holder?

JTek does mention that most use the system on their rear brake because braking through a corner is better accomplished with the rear brake (although they do quantify that statement with it being a personal choice). That’s the way I plan to do it, too.

Nice bike, BTW. Mine will be going on an '06 Dual (with a silver Tacx Tao cage).

Steve

12

First sorry for the long post but I wanted to get as much detail as possible so you don’t have the same headaches. I did try to route it like the instructions and it didn’t work.

Let me explain why I think the instructions don’t work. If you follow the instructions, you would have had to cut the main brake cable about 1-2 feet long and would have ended it right where the controller was. You would have then had to buy a long brake cable for the third aero bar brake and routed that one through the controller to the rear brake pads. If you do it this way, the third aero brake has the most braking power and the rear brake (original brake) has the lower braking power. The original rear brake becomes the speed bleeder. So, if you route it like the insttructions, your aerobrake will be very powerful and your original main brake is weak. If you route it like the instructions, main brake is a 6 or 7, the aerobrake is a 9 (didn’t give it a 10 because it’s so small).

Side note…if you follow the picture, you might get sticky cables, as where their controller is, it is as if it sits nicely under the aerobar extention. It looks clean, but with all the bending of the main brake cable as in the instructions (which is the shorter cable) , it creates a “sticky” brake situation because the cables are more in a bending loop than a straight line.

So, learning it the hard way, I did as the instructions said, and messed up everything. I had to go through several packets of cable housing and cabling and reinstall everything the other way. So, ultimately, the original rear brake cable is the long one. It routes all the way back to the rear brake pads. The 1-2 footer long cable, the one for the third aerobrake, ends at the controller as in the picture. Routing it the way I have it (not like the instructions), the original rear brake is as powerful as if the aerobrake was not there. The aerobrake has about a 1:3 ratio braking power with the way I routed it. So, routing it my way, the main brake is a 10, aerobrake is a 6.

Also on a side note, I put the controller right where the main brake cable exits the aerobar (which is by the stem). If you twist it like they want in the original picture, your brakes get a little sticky because of the wide looping turn. At least for me.

The tube is a cateye light, infront of a cateye astrale 8. I used to put the light and computer on the main bar next to the stem but it doesn’t fit well. This cateye model allows you to twist or mount it anyway you want, you can even put it on your helmet.

I love my dual. It’s the only bike I have, hence all the lights and other gear…people say it’s one of the best bang for your buck bikes. Can’t wait to see a pic of yours.

Hope I answered your questions. PM or reply to this post if you have problems. Hopefully then you won’t have to go through so many problems.

13

Are these levers strong enough to really stop the bike, or are they for just feathering the brakes to control speed?

14

Are these levers strong enough to really stop the bike, or are they for just feathering the brakes to control speed?

Probably depends on whether you set it up for the front or rear brake. I’ve got mine set for the rear, and I don’t think it would do for an emergency stop. On the front, though, I think applying sufficient force could definitely send you over the handlebars.

15

I use one set up for rear brake and it slows you down but with my set up can’t be used to stop from speed. As it was intended to scrub speed when in the aero bars it does that fine.
I don’t use it very often and have thought of removing it, just haven’t gotten around to it. The normal rear brake is not affected. I just find that if I need to really slow I need to use the normal brake.
It’s nice to have the option - just don’t use it that much.

16

Excellent info. Thanks, again.

Your reply was pretty much what I expected. That’s why I asked (to avoid the mistakes and having to go through a bunch of cable/housing/time).

Looking at your picture again, I can definitely see where your installation minimizes the bends in the cables.

The JTek page also mentions installing the splitter at a frame cable stop (with the included spacer). Probably no performance difference than the way you have it, though, and not sure how that would turn out asthetically.

Anyway, I’m defintely considering this modification. It’ll likely be Spring before I do it, though. I’m working on getting lower this off-season, and will need to shorten my brake & shift housings when I get it dialed in.

Steve