I have a 2013 58cm Cervelo P2. I’ve decided to get a power meter first and will get wheels sometime between now and Ironman Coeur d’Alene next summer. With that said, i’m having a hard time pin pointing what my options are for PM’s.
My Cervelo has a FSA crankset, so I am under the impression that if I wanted to get a stages I would have to get a Shimano crankset. For the Power2Max (P2M) - I have the FSA Gossamer Mega Exo BB, so I’m trying to figure out what models would fit my bike.
I always assumed that any power meter would fit, but what power meters are you guys using who are in P2’s?
I tried searching for threads, but couldn’t find what I was looking for.
Buy the Shimano Dura Ace chainrings or buy the entire crank like I did because it was cheaper! Then just put the Dura Ace chainrings on this and good to go! You need the GXP version
I have a 2012 P2, I switched out my FSA cranks for the Power2Max Rotor 3D with the Praxis rings. They said the Mega EXO BB should work but their might be a little play, so I just paid the extra $30-40 for the Rotor BB. Cranks and PM came completely installed and in less then 10 minutes the box was open, old cranks and BB off, and new ones on. Works like a dream.
waste of money. A Power 2 Max crank is within that price range
I agree. Just get on the to the P2M site and talk with them on the online chat. They will tell you exactly what one you need if you tell them your set up. Great customer service as well.
I have a 2012 P3 that has (had) the same crankset and BB. What I did was I went with Power2Max with the exact same FSA Gossamer crank so it worked with my BB. I actually ended up swapping out my BB on my road bike as well so that I can swap the crank and PM across both bikes. It was super easy and I very much recommend it. Just my n=1.
Have you checked for sure that you can’t get a stages? I wasn’t sure if I could get a stages so I emailed them and they said this would work for my 2014 P2, I’m not sure if it’s the case with the 2013 P2 though, but it never hurts to ask!
There’s always something for less, I was just offering a suggestion. I don’t believe anywhere in my comment did I write that Vector S was the cheapest option.
Personally I rarely if ever use the balance metric while riding. I’m looking at a trailing average power, cadence, time and HR. If I had more data fields I’d add balance, but only have 4 on the 910xt.
Afterwards it’s nice to look at, but I find it hard to rectify (and I believe I’ve read that some deviating from 50/50 is expected)
Sure it’s nice to see that I’m 55/45 up some hills and 47/53 elsewhere, but if I’m never going to use that data to change, then who cares? Maybe I just don’t know how to use it properly though
The vector is nice because I swap bikes often, and it’s a 10 minute process. Not sure how that compares to the other toys out there
I heard back from Stages and in order to use their crank I would have to upgrade my crankset, making the total purchase closer to $1,000 or a bit more.
I think the decision will probably be based on transfer-ability (is that a word?) between bikes and accuracy. It will be between Vector S and P2M, unless the 4iii gains some more appeal to me. You make a good point, that as a triathlete the average power will be what is used. However, I do like the idea of being able to accurately assess/track surges/sprints and things like that that.
Bumping this thread for a question. I’m still torn between P2M, Stages, and Vector pedals - they all have pros and cons to me.
P2M is crank based and will give me L/R readings. Stages would be easier to transfer between bikes and this is a brand that a lot of people speak highly of, but the con is that I would have to buy a new crankset for my P2 since it’s FSA. Vector pedals really only appeal to me if I got both, so unless there is a deal I don’t think I would spend the money.
My question is this - I have a 10 speed cassette right now on my training wheels, and am still figuring out what race wheels I’ll ride next year, I will either be buying Flo 60/90 or Zipp 606 (404 front/808 rear). Am I better off with a 10 or 11 speed crankset? Right now my cassettes are all going to be 10, but I want to have the ability to use 11 speed in the future without needing a new PM. I’m finding a lot of mixed opinions - some saying that 11 speed is best and it will work fine with 10, some saying the opposite. FWIW, it looks like the P2M guys are confident that it will work fine with either.
