thanks for all the advice everyone…
a quick question to those with 1x… do you have a clutch rear derailleur or a NarrowWide chainring or both?
thanks for all the advice everyone…
a quick question to those with 1x… do you have a clutch rear derailleur or a NarrowWide chainring or both?
The only necessary thing is to have a narrow wide. Clutch gives extra security but I ran a clutch my first year and non clutch the past two years and haven’t had a single drop ever.
I ran a clutch my first year and non clutch the past two years and haven’t had a single drop ever.
4 days out from St George and you decided to go ahead to and jinx yourself???
I ran a clutch my first year and non clutch the past two years and haven’t had a single drop ever.
4 days out from St George and you decided to go ahead to and jinx yourself???
Pretty sure covid already tanked my race harder than a mechanical will 
.
X2 on no need for clutch RD as long as you have narrow wide ring. No chain drops for me in over 1000 miles on bumpy northeast roads
Nice!
Do most 1x-ers stick with round rings or oval rings?
Sticking with 2X. Virtually all the races here in NorCal throw a “real” hill in on the bike (1-3K at 8% or more), and I don’t want to thrash my legs grinding up it in too heavy a gear.
Back when I raced mostly in the Midwest, 1X would be fine for almost every course (many of us thought about dumping our front derailleurs and that was back in the days of a 12-23 or 12-25 rear cassette). The issue was the one or two races per year where you needed the small ring.
A 48 1x with a 10-36 has a broader range than a 52/36 11-27. It’s a pretty good solution, even for hillier terrain no?
A good solution? Not really. It may have a broad range, but with a broad range 1x setup you get larger gaps between gears. IMO, both of the options you reference are bad choices. Looking at http://ritzelrechner.de/ and considering my typical/target speed and desired cadence, both options have a big gap such that I would have to either over or under gear for the bulk of any race. There’s more to gear selection than the extremes. The majority of the race is more important, IMO.
Maybe it’s a bad choice for you… that’s fair, it seems to be a great option for me. I will likely never ride a TT bike with 2 rings in the front ever again.
Maybe it’s a bad choice for you… that’s fair, it seems to be a great option for me. I will likely never ride a TT bike with 2 rings in the front ever again.
That’s it, its a very personal thing as to whether you like 1x or not. I’ve been running a 1x setup on my TT bike for around 8 years and will never go back to 2x. It’s not for everyone (some people “must” have tighter cog spacing that 2x provides), but I never notice bigger cog jumps / cadence changes, or it just doesn’t bother me at all.
Before moving to Etap AXS 12sp, I ran 1x11sp with a 54T x 11-32T.
With AXS, I started with 50T x 10-33, but recently changed to a 52T chainring. I found with the 50T, although technically the 50x10 is a equivalent to a 55x11, I just felt like I couldn’t hold power on descents, so moved to a 52 and happy with it. I am naturally a lower cadence guy, so really prefer holding power at 70-80rpm on descents as opposed to spinning at 100+. The 52x33 is enough gear for where I train and probably 99% of the races I’ll ever do.
Oh, and all those naysayers who complain about “excess friction” with 1x chain lines at the extreme ends of the cassette, you spend so little time there it probably makes zero difference in real life. And they conveniently forget that the time spent in a smaller chainring is at a higher chain friction than a big chain ring… something you don’t get with 1x!
Sticking with 2X. Virtually all the races here in NorCal throw a “real” hill in on the bike (1-3K at 8% or more), and I don’t want to thrash my legs grinding up it in too heavy a gear.
Back when I raced mostly in the Midwest, 1X would be fine for almost every course (many of us thought about dumping our front derailleurs and that was back in the days of a 12-23 or 12-25 rear cassette). The issue was the one or two races per year where you needed the small ring.
A 48 1x with a 10-36 has a broader range than a 52/36 11-27. It’s a pretty good solution, even for hillier terrain no?
A good solution? Not really. It may have a broad range, but with a broad range 1x setup you get larger gaps between gears. IMO, both of the options you reference are bad choices. Looking at http://ritzelrechner.de/ and considering my typical/target speed and desired cadence, both options have a big gap such that I would have to either over or under gear for the bulk of any race. There’s more to gear selection than the extremes. The majority of the race is more important, IMO.
Maybe it’s a bad choice for you… that’s fair, it seems to be a great option for me. I will likely never ride a TT bike with 2 rings in the front ever again.
Don’t misunderstand, I’m a devout 1x user as well. I wasn’t dissing 1x, per se, I was addressing that particular choice of gearing. Trying to replicate the full breadth of gear ratios of a wide ratio 2x setup in a super-wide 1x setup leads to unduly large gaps in the middle. Me, I would rather spend 8 or 10 minutes (usually much less) at 50 rpm by being over-geared, if it means I spend the rest of the race at 85-90 rpm in the perfect gear.
howdy all,
just wondering people’s thought about going 1x on their Tri-Bike.
if yes, what cassette gearing did you go with?
thanks,
jeff
The answers to both of those queries depend on one’s goals and objectives, so you’re going to get a lot of YMMV replies. But I’m definitely planning to switch to an eTap 1⨉ AXS with my next bike. Currently I’m still riding a 12-year-old Blue Triad (with 9-speed Ultegra, no less), but 2022 is looking like the year for a new bike. I’ll be 60 then and long past my racing prime. Age also tends to make one worry less about competition and more about enjoying the activity. For that reason the main thing I’m looking for in a new bike is one I can enjoy. And since I’m not at all mechanically inclined, one way I can maximize enjoyment is to minimize fiddling. A 1⨉ means no front derailleur, no front shifter, etc. Fewer things to fiddle with, fewer things to adjust, fewer things to go wrong, no worrying about when to double shift while riding. eTap for the same reason: no tweaking rear derailleur once it’s set, no messing with cables. The potential downsides don’t really matter to me. I’m not at all worried about range, as I’m not going to be bombing any descents. And given that I don’t care about top speed, it should be easy to settle on a gear combo that will get me up the steepest climbs I’d ride on a tri bike without having to deal with huge jumps.
I’ve got experience with eTap Red on my road bike and 1⨉ gearing on my commute (Shimano Metrea group set, 42T in the front and 11-32T in the rear). I love them both. eTap shifting is clean and precise, and I haven’t had to adjust the derailleurs in 5 years. 1⨉ gearing is drop dead simple to ride: shift up when it gets too easy and shift down when it gets too hard; no thinking required. I can’t wait to get both on one bike.
I enjoyed 1X so much I sold my di2 and went One x mechanical. Sram R2c shifters Force One rear derailleur 50 tooth chainring and multiple cassettes 11 34 clean up through 42
Current setup 1x11 di2
54 front
11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28-32 rear
I find it great. My rear deraileur can handle bigger cassettes for hilly courses.
I enjoyed 1X so much I sold my di2 and went One x mechanical. Sram R2c shifters Force One rear derailleur 50 tooth chainring and multiple cassettes 11 34 clean up through 42
What’s so enjoyable about 1x?
I enjoyed 1X so much I sold my di2 and went One x mechanical. Sram R2c shifters Force One rear derailleur 50 tooth chainring and multiple cassettes 11 34 clean up through 42
What’s so enjoyable about 1x?
The simplicity of it. Easy to work on and reliable…I just like it.
howdy all,
just wondering people’s thought about going 1x on their Tri-Bike.
if yes, what cassette gearing did you go with?
thanks,
jeff
Depends on where you ride, if flat 11-25 or 12-25. In the short, the closest range you’ll be comfortable with. Not much different from a 2x when choosing the cassette. Choose the chainring wisely though