ive used the pro race 3’s …butyl tubes?? 80mm tubes…will i need 2 valve extenders for each wheel or should i use the zipp extenders if they even provide?
ill be using clinchers…thank u for any advice
I used latex tubes with the provided Zipp extender. Tire is up to you and your weight, course conditions.
I used latex tubes with the provided Zipp extender. Tire is up to you and your weight, course conditions.
i wonder if zipp tires would be a good choice w the 170psi clincher rating and should i use the velocitcy plubs instead of velux tape?
Maybe these tires?
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=2268811
i ordered a 19mm, will have to try it out and see what happens.
ill get the latex…also zipp tape or velocitcy plugs…i suppose i dont need a couple of extenders…ill guess ill use the pro race 3s but maybe there is a clincher i could put 160psi in…prob should stay with the 700 23??
zipp includes perfectly good and very light extenders.
unless you weigh 300lbs, 160 psi is slowing you down. way too much pressure.
ive used the pro race 3’s …butyl tubes?? 80mm tubes…will i need 2 valve extenders for each wheel or should i use the zipp extenders if they even provide?
ill be using clinchers…thank u for any advice
The custom-length valve extenders were out of stock when I ordered my Planet X Pro carbon 101 / 82 rim set. As I was going to lace up those wheels myself, I decided to also build my custom valve extenders - no joke!
Materials you need: Aluminum pipe, bolts, JB-weld (or some similar metal bonding resin) and teflon tape. Your tubulars, resp. your inner tubes must have removable valve cores.
Tools you need: A vise, hacksaw, power drill, drill bits and taps.
Building steps:
Remove the valve core.Cut a section of aluminum pipe to the required length (distance from top of valve stem to inner rim diameter plus about 2cm)Drill / tap the section of aluminum pipe at one end so that you can screw the valve core in it. A loose fit is OK - it doesn’t have to be a perfect fit (as you will have a very hard time to find a tap that matches the obscure threading pitch used on presta valves - it’s neither metric, nor British, nor UTS…)Cut a 15mm length from the bolt’s threaded section. The bolt should have the same diameter as the valve core.Use a small diameter drill bit (about 1.5mm) and slowly, carefully, drill a hole through the 1.5cm bolt section.
Drill / tap the section of aluminum pipe at the other end so that you can screw about 6mm of the bolt in it.The most delicate step: Tap the valve stem of your tubular/inner tube to a depth of about 15mm so you can screw about 10mm of the bolt section in it. Be careful, as the valve is typically made of soft metal which is easily deformed if held in a vise. The valve metal on my particular tubulars (Vittoria Corsa EVO CX) was so soft that I did not need a vise - I held the valve stem firmly in one hand, and operated the tap with the other hand.
Spread a little JB-weld uniformly on the valve core threads and on 6mm length of the bolt section threads, then thread them into the aluminum pipe. Be careful with the JB-weld! You don’t want to clog neither the valve, nor the hole you’ve drilled through the bolt. What you want to achieve is a strong, airtight connection between the aluminum pipe and the valve/bolt threads.
Let the JB-weld cure overnight.Put a few turns of teflon tape around the 1cm bolt section sticking out of the aluminum pipe. Thread it into the valve stem. Check for airtightness et voilà, you’ve just built a removable, custom-length valve extender that costs less than 1$ in materials, if you blissfully ignore the hard labor you’ve put into steps 1 to 9 