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set screws on trainer
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My frustration with the set screws for my PR6 continue. Whether on the smart trainer or even perhaps on the road, they end up mangled to varying degrees. I have changed to a firmer, stronger skewer, I have "double sprung" the screw as recommended by QR, etc. My question, do I need the set screws while on the trainer? Am I making the frame more vulnerable? May I affect the shifting losing a few mm without the screws?
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Re: set screws on trainer [lyla] [ In reply to ]
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Are you referring to the screws that limit the forward movement of the rear wheel towards the seat tube?

Once, I was fast. But I got over it.
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Re: set screws on trainer [lyla] [ In reply to ]
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lyla wrote:
My frustration with the set screws for my PR6 continue. Whether on the smart trainer or even perhaps on the road, they end up mangled to varying degrees. I have changed to a firmer, stronger skewer, I have "double sprung" the screw as recommended by QR, etc. My question, do I need the set screws while on the trainer? Am I making the frame more vulnerable? May I affect the shifting losing a few mm without the screws?

This isn't only a QR issue, I've seen quite a few Cervelo P-series bikes with this problem as well, and those aren't as easily fixed. Also, I would say this is 99% being caused by riding on the (direct-drive) trainer. I would recommend changing out the dropouts to the vertical ones you get with the frame if you're doing a lot of riding on your trainer. Worst case scenario, if you have to have the horizontal dropouts, maybe have a backup set you can change out when you're riding outside. Or, you can just remove the screws when you ride the trainer, and put them back on when you ride outside?
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Re: set screws on trainer [lyla] [ In reply to ]
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If you are talking about the horizontal limit screws that limit how far in the rear wheel approaches the frame cutout, yes, it's an annoying problem - it's wayyyy too easy to strip the threads by pedaling hard and having the wheel slip forward against those tiny screws. I've had this problem since I bought my Cervelo 10 years ago.

Since my screw threads were completely stripped, I purchased screws with matched washers and put washers on both the front and back of the screw once I slid it into the stripped hole to hold it in place.

But by farrrr the most important, and critical upgrade I made, which solved any more rear tire slippage, was to swap to a dura-ace rear skewer. And then use that huge handle to really lock down the rear wheel HARD whenever you ride. I haven't had a slip since doing that, but I really do crank it down very hard.

https://www.excelsports.com/...rBGHYowaAvn3EALw_wcB
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Re: set screws on trainer [lightheir] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks. I have switched to that specific skewer and I have the bike in there as solid as possible. Putting double springs on the screws have kept them from bending to the point where the dropout has to be removed because the screw cannot turn. The Kickr has been kinder than the Neo for some reason but it is a never ending issue.
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Re: set screws on trainer [Andres] [ In reply to ]
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You might be on to something. The idea of taking off the screws has not been appealing, however, switching out the entire drop outs with and without screws may be faster and less of a hassle. I never had this issue with past Cervelos and an Orbea. Yet, the introduction of the direct drive trainer is new but the Orbea tank did not have this issue.
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Re: set screws on trainer [lyla] [ In reply to ]
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It’s the direct drive trainer :)

You’re doing anything wrong, but we’ve seen this on a number of frames, and the only common thread is that the frames spend a significant amount of time indoors on a direct drive trainer.
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Re: set screws on trainer [lyla] [ In reply to ]
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Yep, happens on my felt ia too. I bought a bag of the 2mm hex screws for a few $$ and just change the out as needed.
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