Not new. Try used?

You have two options

1. A high quality magnetic trainer + on bike power meter. The trainer does not display power but provides resistance. A cycleops mag trainer can be found for 200. An entry level power meter is approximately 500.

2. Smart trainer that has an electronic braking unit, this will provide resistance and power. These units will start around 600-700.

If you have a speed sensor on your rear wheel any trainer will give you a power estimate in trainerroad. They have a database of power/speed curves for common trainers, however this method is pretty inaccurate due to tire and pressure differences but can probably be fairly consistent. If you don't have one in their database I think you can do some sort of spin down to get a curve. You can probably get a kurt kinetic road machine used for under $300 which is pretty much the top of the line 'dumb' trainer.

Alright, so I don't have a power meter but do need one so this may be an option. So basically I just sync the power meter up with trainerroad (instead of the trainer) and measure my output that way? Would that give speed/distance readings as well?

Only if the power meter measures that. Which is pretty much only a powertap hub. If not you can buy a magnetless garmin or wahoo speed/distance sensor for your rear hub for around $30 though.

What about these? I could possibly fork out the extra $100 if it meant getting more functionality.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CycleOps-9481-PowerBeam-Pro-ANT-w-Joule-GPS-Bike-Bicycle-Cycle-Trainer-NEW/173136471010?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

or

https://www.ebay.com/...p2055119.m1438.l2649

It's crazy there really aren't very many used units out there...

If you actually want to use the trainer long term, I'd seriously consider saving your money or upping your budget and buying a new (or used) top end smart trainer - kickr, neo, whatever.

I had a dumb trainer once. Used it rarely and the workouts invariably were weak. Now having a smart trainer and pairing with zwift, the indoor riding experience is something I actually look forward to. Motivation and enjoying the time indoors is worth every additional penny spent, imo.

that's kinda what I am thinking. I am not sure if I'll use zwift now, but would like the option later. I found the Kinetic Road Machine Smart Bike Trainer for $369 at REI. Thinking that may be the way to go.

Depends on the dumb trainer. One or two do a good job with virtual power curves and I would take them over any low end smart trainer. The KK Road Machine is very good. However, plenty dumb trainers and lower end smart trainers are poor. I'm sure the high end smart trainers add a certain something but haven't the experience to comment.

If you could stretch your budget a couple hundred, you could pick up a Powertap C1 chairing power meter (if it's compatible with your bike) for $350 and a TravelTrac Comp Fluid Trainer for $139 (I got mine for $99 on sale at Performance Bike). The TravelTrac provides a good deal of resistance, but you don't get the cool ERG features, so you have to shift and pace yourself. I'm new to cycling, so I like the extra focus I need on a dumb trainer..and I haven't used a smart trainer, so I don't know what I'm missing yet.

I was using virtual power for a couple weeks, but got rid of it quick. Temperature differences make a big difference in trainer resistance and now that I have a power meter, I can see how the speed drifts at a constant power as the trainer warms up.

If you have a power meter, that's all TR really needs. I also log on my Fenix3, so I use a speed and cadence sensor too.

So my suggestion....get a C1 powermeter and a decent dumb fluid trainer. Should be less than $500 and will give you power everywhere you ride. The dumb trainer is good enough for now and you can always decide later if you want to save for a good smart trainer. Buy TARWPM (google search) if you haven't already.

Go with the basic trainer. The KK Road machine is good and reasonably priced. Use the virtual power via TR. Gets you going. I don't know if the numbers from my KK are accurate ... but they are precise. Meaning, they are reproducible and are consistent so training is able to happen.

If you want a powermeter, the C1 chainring is a good option. I have thought of doing that -- and even moving it between bikes. But my races don't let me look at a head unit, so I will pass for now.

A good "dumb" trainer like the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine is $339 for the manufacturer (sometimes you can find them in the $200's online - not from the major sellers though). $369 gets you one with a sensor that calculates power. However, the better solution would be looking for a used PM for the bike so that you can then use the PM when riding outside. You can find the Stages cheap sometimes (depends on your crankset) or a used PM at a reasonable cost. Other options like the Power2Max over a good cost point for a good PM. A PM is a much better spend than a "smart" trainer. Unless you are an absolute beast of a rider, there is nothing you get from "smart" trainer that you can't replicate with "dumb" trainer with gearing other than some automated features and a much much smaller bank account.

Chain reaction cycles has the tacx satori smart trainer for $277 right now. It doesn’t automatically adjust the difficulty but it does have a handlebar switch.

I’m thinking about grabbing one up for myself. I’m stuck with a dicks sporting goods mag trainer right now.

you can get a reconditioned kickr snap for $500 from wahoo. there isn't much that makes much sense to purchase in the $350 range. I would look at either a used dumb trainer for ~$100 and not worry about power for now or pony up for a dumb traininer + power meter or one of the basic smart trainers.

Just chucking in my two pence here. I have KK road Machine and use Trainer Road. Love them both, but the virtual power for me is rubbish.

I also have garmin vectors pedals. I tested the KK / Trainer Road virtual power against the pedals and a borrowed Powertap wheel and I found that the virtual power could drift by 10 to 20% over the course of an hour whilst holding a steady power with the vectors and Powertap. I put this down to the resistance on the KK fluctuating with operating temperature.

I also tried the little KK inride pod which lets you do a roll down calibration of the trainer and found the same thing. I'd warm up for 10 minutes then do a roll down calibration and then the KK app would show the same power as the vectors and the Powertap. However it would start to drift straight away. Eventually ending upto 20% off after an hour. Doing the rolldown always brought it back in to line but it would always drift off again even doing the roll down an hour in when the trainer should have been fully warmed up. I do train in a cold space usually 6-12 degrees centigrade so maybe that made it more sensitive. Maybe.

My advice. Get a power meter and a dumb trainer and use your power meter outside too. It's the best way to get consistant results. Most power meters claim accuracy of 2% or better. Only top of the line smart trainers will give you that. KK smart trainers claim 5% as an example. That could be the difference of a reading of 315 watts one day and 285 the next.

Also meant to say you don't need a speed sensor if you have a power meter.

I got the tacx vortex (smart with erg mode to auto adjust resistance to trainer road workout). bike discount . de has it for like 383 dollars US. Depending on currency exchange rate. Took about 2 weeks for delivery. I don't find the power to match my powertap pedals that well, but for indoor workouts, as long as you are consistent.

I am a fan of power meter and dumb trainer over smart trainer and no power meter though. Power meter is very useful outside.

The power beam pro is a good old style smart trainer, i used to own one. You just have to mind the details with its use.

https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2017/10/annual-trainer-recommendations.html


there is a good start.


I used a KK road machine with inride for a while. It did the trick. The only problem I had with it was that the flywheel didnt seem to apply "realistic" feel to riding. It was similar to always going slightly downhill. If you ride indoor/outdoor this probably wont be an issue for you. At the end of the day, I would bump your budget up to 400. As a note, REI sometimes has 20% of sales (they have black friday sales) and you can get the road machine for around 300 then.

With a bit of searching and patience, you could do it for about $200.
I got a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine off Craigslist for $125. Just took some patience. They pretty much last forever. I wouldn't get a blue one as they are 10+ years old, but either of the green versions should still have many years left in it.
Get a speed and cadence sensor like twith with any he Wahoo Blue SC. About $50 from EBay. Or you can go even cheaper with some no name magnetless speed and cadence sensors for about $15-20 a piece. Or, the newer Wahoo magnetless set at about $80.
Just make sure the sensors are both ANT+ and Bluetooth. That will future proof your setup and let you use them with any device.

Then you can use virtual power with TrainerRoad or Zwift. Not as good as a power meter, but reasonable and fits your budget.

I find it incredibly hard to believe a KK road Machine drifted 20% on power with temperature changes during sessions.
My performances are extremely consistent and likewise my HR correlation is very close showing just minor cardiac drift through hard sessions as one would expect. I do not believe that there are variations anywhere near that large. I can't reliably detect any (without a PM).
The same cannot be said for other dumb trainers like the Cyclops fluid trainers.

Believe it. Powertap and vector remained steady and KK drifted up to 40 Watts riding at a steady 210 to 220 for a couple of hours. That is KK power measured by KK inride.

If you really want I could see if I could dig out the files and send you them if you like.

I talked to KK support at the time and they told me that it was the vector and the powertap that were both off.

Stac Zero with powermeter is $400 but today is the last day for the 10% discount.